MILO

yeah, buddy. Rocky Mtn. gets a lot of my money But, even with the shipping added, sometimes i'll get a better deal than thru the stealership.

i don't know about the 91 gas with the domes, but the range that it's breaking up at sounds like you may need to lower your needles some.

i'm in the same boat here, kicking around losing the cable for a dish. only reason being that our cable bill is getting outrageous. there's only 1 major cable provider in the area and they think they have everybody by the balls, so they constantly increase their rates. they recently took over another company and all package deals are out the door as of august, and i'm sure rates will go up again. looks like some movie channels are gonna get the boot, maybe the whole deal and go with a dish. greedy bastards. it's too bad you can't just select the stations you want and pay accordingly rather than getting 80 channels of shit that you don't want anyway. i'd be happy with 10 choice channels and the hell with the rest. but it looks like either way, dish or cable, the monthly cost of watching tv is getting out of hand.

hey hollywood, you've come to the right place for info and advice. lots of guys that will gladly help you out, or listen as well. with the HQ and a clymer's, nothings impossible.

one of my ft shocks seems to have a little slop in it. when it's compessed and released, it doesn't travel all the way back up like the other, and when you pick up on the ft end, it pullls up about 1/4" and kinda clunks at the top end, then pulls the wheel up off the ground. what causes that kind of play in the travel?? i didn't see any cracked springs or anything either, and no leaking.

you must have some really tough fingers to pull that thing out of there with them it is pressed in there pretty good. i ended up using a dremmel to get it down pretty thin then very carefully chiseled the bearing race apart and pulled it out with needle nose pliers and a little prying. i plugged the opening under it with a wrag to keep debris out, but it still needs a little cleaning from the dirt and pieces of debris that got in there while the bearing was being thrashed and falling apart to begin with. damn, it's always something with the shee. oh well, gotta pay to play i guess

if jetting is right, carbs are clean, air filter's good and clean, and it just started you may want to double check your needle anyway. last weekend a guy i was riding with somehow lost the clip for the needle while riding his shee and he had all kinds of problems.

thanks guys, now all i have to do is get them out of there somehow.

not the tension rods under the motor, but the main motor mounts at the front and back of the engine.

what's the best way to get this bearing out? i don't have the pilot bearing removal tool like clymer's suggests using, and so far i haven't been able to get it out without messing up the crankcase around it. any ideas or experience?

i realize that it's a damper and will let the motor move slightly. but i can pry up on the motor against the frame and it lifts about 1/8" or so. is that normal travel for the damper or are they actually worn out? also how the hell do you get those things out of there?

scratch that!! i figured out what's wrong with mine. the push lever bearing is shot. when i pulled the lever out half of the bearings ended up in the bottom of the hole, the rest look like shit and inner race is all messed up. there were little shavings all through the bottom. i used a magnet to pull the push rod and ball, then ran it back in and pulled out a bunch of little shavings and gritty shit. i definitely need to replace the bearing and seal, maybe even the push lever since it is scored some. i'm just happy to get it figured out the clutch itself, rod and ball seem fine still. as far as i know that's all there is to it. my question now is how the hell do you get that bearing out of there without messing up the crankcase at all. clymers sais to use a pilot bearing puller. don't have one of those, that's for sure. any ideas??

i recently replaced my clutch with a hinson basket, new stock hub and pressure plate and tusk kit with all 6 hd springs. it worked great for a few weeks, then started acting up. sometimes like when i ride around the yard, i can go for an hour or whatever and it works fine, but when i hit the trails and ride hard, after a while it starts to bind up. meaning i can't hardly pull the lever in and when i shift it slips sometimes. even after in the gear it slips when i hammer on it sometimes like it's just not grabbing enough. weird though cuz later i can take off around the yard and it's fine again, like it just gets too hot or something when hard at it on the trails. twice i've readjusted it, and now again with the perch adjuster loosened up, the arm is beyond the arrow on the crankcase, and there is no play whatsoever. i can't even pull it back to the outer side of the arrow. shouldn't it be free to push by hand and when the resistance starts the arrows are lined up?? it doesn't seem to be releasing properly. last time i had it apart, the rod and ball were fine, and everything else looked fine. and i do change the oil frequently. is this clutch kit junk already or what's going on here, i'm getting tired of having clutch problems everytime i ride hard.

i noticed my motor seemed to be vibrating a lot and would twist a little when revved up, and i think i have it narrowed down to the motor mount dampers being shot. is this yet another common minor problem on the shee? it seems that everything else i've run into so far is something that every banshee owner has gone through at one time or another. or is this one unusual and have some underlying reason for them being worn?

it's like christmas in july ups guy just dropped off my parts, earlier than scheduled, which is really unusual, but i'm not complaining. new rotor and pads to throw on before the weekend. also new chain/sprockets. i tried to straighten it out by pounding it flat too, and it didn't work to well. i was going to take it into work tonight and put it in the press,still might just out of curiosity. i tried flipping it and it really put a lot of pressure on the caliper and did drag quite a bit. if the press didn't do it i wasn't gonna risk further damage or brake failure, and sit out the weekend. but that's no longer an issue. but if i get it straightened, at least i'll have an emergency back up for the future.

i don't think going back and forth will be much of an issue. it's consistent around the rotor. meaning, if you lay it on a flat surface, the center where it bolts on being flat, the outer edge is about 1/4" off of the surface the whole way around the rotor. not so much of a twisted spot, just the whole thing is cupped from the center out. but i'll lube it up good just to be on the safe side. thanks for the input!

of course a simple job turned into a bitch. the bolts that hold the rear rotor on shoud take a 6mm allen wrench. allen wrench alone wouldn't get it, so i cut one and slipped into a socket to use the ratchet for leverage and it cracked my socket. so i changed sockets, but of course then the allen bolts stripped out. the bolt heads are perfectly smooth and round, and leave very little to get onto with anythin. EXCEPT craftsman's bolt/nut extractors. i bought my dad a set for Christmas, and borrowed them tonight. it locked right onto that round head and turned it right out. i'll be getting myself a set for my box as well now. they work awesome

that sounds about right to me. poker runs that we go on average 25-30 miles, and i use about 3/4 tank on them, depending on how much playing around we do throughout the ride. my buddy's raptor does much better on gas. that power band really sucks it up if your in it all the time. i think you'll find that your better off than a lot of other shee's loaded with mods, they probably get about 1/2 the gas mileage we do.

not quite sure why, but my rr rotor is warped pretty bad. must have really overheated sometime. may even have bent from when my axle nuts came loose while on a poker run. i'm sure the axle slid right a little then and i'm sure the caliper would've held the rotor from going with it. it's cupped about 1/4", enough that the caliper mounting bracket is rubbing the rotor. i took it off and was going to flip it for the upcoming weekend, so the warp is out rather than into the caliper. i was gonna flip the pads also since they are worn to the shape of the rotor. is this a good idea or not? it's only gonna be for 1 weekend, i have a new rotor and pads coming in on Monday, of course a few days later than i had hoped, and i don't wanna miss the event this weeked cuz i have to work the next 5 weekends. any major concerns here or should it be fine?? i've never heard of anyone doing it before, but i may give it a shot.

what an asshole! that dork about pissed himself when that 'beaner' came up to his truck and was going to thump him after what he did to them. now that would have been funny, seeing him get his ass whooped and cryin like the little bitch he really is.

sounds to me like the guy is just afraid of it, and looking for a way to tame it. i remember a few times of riding wheelies or crashing and your holding on like hell and end up keeping the throttle pinned cuz you know if you relax it your gonna lose your grip and take a dive. but with a little experience you learn to control it. i don't think i'd like a twistie on my shee any more than a thumber on a bike it's just not natural. i think he should start on a yz 125 or something and move up as he learns, before he hurts himself. i don't think the thumb throttle is going to solve his problem cuz it's not the real issue, being able to handle your ride is.

very true. i run mine wide open periodically, and put around periodically. i don't ride balls to the wall all the time, and never foul plugs while riding. but u don't want to stay out of the pwr band too long, or you may foul plugs. little blips and quick bursts here and there have worked fine for me when riding with slower guys. on the other hand, i don't hold it wot for long either, i don't want to find out where the cut off is by blowing my top end. keep it jetted properly, fuel mixed right, things cleaned up and lubed up, and you should be able to ride fast, slow, in between or whatever. just mix it up a little and you'll be fine. or like i said before, just run the shit out it, if your up for it. by the way, i never heard of resting 5 for every 10 min's of riding. if everything is in good shape and you do run it enough to let it breathe and keep cool, unless it starts to overheat, just ride.

everything said above... the banshee has well deserved respect and admiration. it always turns heads, always will. they are so easily modified with so.... many options, no two are alike, yet not one is mistakable for something else.

just run the shit out of it, it'll be fine