MILO

the only one i know of is from hinson. but if you run all of their components it is an 8 plate set up rather than a 7, which is specific to hinson also. the whole kit will run you about $900.

the last time i had trouble like this, the kill switch itself just needed a good cleaning. take it apart and clean the contacts and see if that helps any.

how often do you ride your shee? the longer mine sits at a time, the worse the clutch is when it's cold. i've already had to start in neutral (of course) and then push it a little to get it going and pop it in gear or it would stall when put in gear. after a minute or two, it frees up and works fine the rest of the day. everything is together right and adjusted right also. i'm using a tusk kit with 80w gearsaver too. :shrug:

with my swinger skid plate on, there's no way i'd get to grease the bottom of the connecting rod without a flex hose on the grease gun. it sure helps with the lower a-arms also.

denniskirk is havin some huge sales also. i just ordered some gloves from there yesterday. $10 for one pair, and $20 for the other. both were huge savings. you need to register with these sites for them to e-mail you about sales and specials. i've gotten lots of good deals that way.

banshee's are like anything else. if you learn how to set it up properly for your riding habits and take care of it and keep up with the basics it should be a reliable ride for you. there's no reason it should be any worse than anything else. just be careful if you get a used one. i think that a lot of guys fool with them and don't really know what they are doing. there is an endless amount of mods out there and they can be made to fit whatever your riding style is, woods-trails-dunes-drag racing, etc. and you won't run into any issues that someone else on this site hasn't already dealt with and couldn't help you with. :cool:

i wouldn't get rid of the shee to get a street bike unless you have to because of the money. there will most likely come a time when you wish you had it back. if you can swing it, just get a bike and put the shee on the back burner for a while. having both is great. you just have to know your limits on each to keep yourself out of trouble.

i would say that it's not a mod. it's something that you adjust to compensate for any mods and keep it running properly. that is jetting's only real benefit, therefore it is not a mod, only an adjustment. otherwise i could brag about having a tightened chain, soft clutch, and tight brakes as mods. hey bud, you must have too much time on your hands. but then again, i took the time to answer your question also. sad, isn't it. :laugh:

check out a local yammy dealer. they can hook you up for about $4 per spring.

i've had some cheaper pants before and they are just that - cheap. i finally gave in and bought a set of the MSR ISDE pants. yeah, they are expensive but are comfortable and definitely 100% waterproof. which is awesome for trail / mud riding. my only complaint is that a combination of a gripper seat and gripper butt panel on the pants almost has you mooning the guy behind you sometimes when the shee takes off hard. :biggrin:

you could use any kind of spring for now. but i'd hit up your local dealer or rocky mtn or something and get some replacements. they are only a few bucks a piece.

hey bud, you don't want to do away with the kick starter. you'll lose that trademark kickstarter ringadingding :yelrotflmao:

i thought it looked pretty cool, but stickers would be the way to go if it's just for the looks. imagine saving all of the shavings from drilling them out and then weighing them. i'm sure it would really be worthwhile to actually lose that weight. :: maybe it makes it more aerodynamic :yelrotflmao:

yeah i'd be lying to you if i said it actually kept my bike cooler. i really have no idea. but like dajogejr said, it's more of an insurance item. i think the pos stocker was destined to fail. at least you have some peace of mind with the billet ones.

buggered :yelrotflmao: sounds cool bud. try to get those pics up.

nice job ghost rider. i'm usually not a real big fan of flames on anything, but that does look pretty sweet. my first thoughts were the frame should be black rather than green, and it did turn out nice. throw in a little bling and that will be one cool ride. :thumbsup: oh sorry, it is flamed. that will be one hot ride :yelrotflmao:

you need to do a plug chop and see how the plugs look. it sounds to me like you're mains are lean for one. i'm at about 1250' with pc's and went up to 370's to get good plug chops. that's with no lid on the air box and the pro flow filter, v3's, noss head w/20 cc domes. are you sure you don't have any air leaks around your carb boots or anything? i can ride hard in the woods/trails all day long and not overheat. some info: check out this link about jetting. it may help you determine what throttle range you need to work with. carb theory 101 2-Stroke Plug Chop how-to: 1. Get new spark plug(s), but don't put them in yet. 2. Warm up motor to operating temp on old plugs. 3. Install new plugs. 4. Accellerate through all gears to top gear with throttle pinned. 5. When you hit the top of the top gear, hit the kill switch and pull in the clutch. 6. Remove the spark plug(s) and ride home on the old plug(s). 7. Hold the new plug in a vise and use a hacksaw to cut the threads away from the center electrode. 8. You should see a brown 2mm "smoke ring" at the base of the white center electrode if the main jets are dialed in perfect. 9. if the smoke ring is darker than chocolate brown or taller than 2mm, you're rich on the mains, but if it revs clean to full throttle, you can leave it there and be on the rich side. 10. If the smoke ring is smaller than 2mm or lighter than chocolate brown, you're lean on the mains, go up a size and try again. oh yeah, and you may want to try setting your timing back to +4. +5 may be a little too much with your mods.

and just who are you to know so much about noss heads? :ohmy: just kidding, bud. i really like my noss head. thanks for a great product and everything you do for the hq crowd i wouldn't use superglue or anything of that nature on the o-rings to install them. i used a little grease as instructed and it worked fine.

i have a hinson basket and run the stock # of plates(tusk kit), which i believe is 7. using a stock inner hub and pressure plate. no problems here. hinson makes an 8 plate set up that you have to use all of their components with. it's close to $900 though.

hmmm... i was always told to use the long reach adaptor on the shee cuz it's more like when the plug is in. i would think that you want it to be as close to reality as possible.

you can't go wrong with wiseco's bud. they are probably the most recognized piston manufacturer out there.

i've always run bel-ray 80w gearsaver without any problems. i'm going to stick with it over regular motor oil considering the beating a shee clutch and tranny takes. a new stock dipstick is around $6 at a local stealership, at least that's what i paid for mine. or if you want to go bling blingin, shop around, there's several out there.

93 octane domes? i guess that means with the domes you have it's safe to run 93 with your mods and elevation? you need to find out what cc domes you have bud. i'm not sure about having to change jetting, but i run the stock box, no lid, with a pro flow foam filter, no problems on trails and mud. i'd suggest making your intake changes and the timing plate, do plug chops to check your jetting, and see what the results are before investing in a new set of pipes.

i've had the pro design for about 3 years now, no problems. rocky mountain atv has pro design and modquad both. rocky mtn.

if you have a plastic impeller, (stock) i'd replace it the next time you have it apart. the plastic one is bound to fail sooner or later, most likely causing overheating, impeller seal failure, and coolant leaking into the tranny possibly causing your clutch plates to come apart, among other possibilities from not having good lubrication in the tranny. for the cost of a billet impeller, it's well worth it in the long run.