docjcwatson Posted August 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2009 Hmmm. You might be on your own for that one buddy. I imagine you might be able to order them online if you need too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonsBanshee Posted October 3, 2009 Report Share Posted October 3, 2009 (edited) Here is my leak down tester. I have less than $20 in it (I already had the valve stem.) I got the PVC caps from Home Depot for $0.52 each, the rubber caps (for the exhaust) at lowes for $2.99 each and the gauge from Advanced Auto for $8.99. I used sealer on threads of the gauge and around the valve stem. Works like a charm. I've seen guys buy pvc pipe and cap the ends. There's really no need for that extra joint as this works perfect, unless you can't find the size you need in just the cap. I got lucky with my 35mm carbs. Edited October 3, 2009 by JasonsBanshee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sy1219 Posted November 13, 2009 Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 I dont mean to step on anyones towes, but to save A bunch of time doing all this leak down things. Just get A can of starting fluid & sprray it around all the gasket that you might think be leaking. if the idle goes up you know you have A leak. so much faster then doing all these pipes & gauges. just my .02 Here is my leak down tester. I have less than $20 in it (I already had the valve stem.) I got the PVC caps from Home Depot for $0.52 each, the rubber caps (for the exhaust) at lowes for $2.99 each and the gauge from Advanced Auto for $8.99. I used sealer on threads of the gauge and around the valve stem. Works like a charm. I've seen guys buy pvc pipe and cap the ends. There's really no need for that extra joint as this works perfect, unless you can't find the size you need in just the cap. I got lucky with my 35mm carbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swrbansheeboy Posted November 19, 2009 Report Share Posted November 19, 2009 (edited) I dont mean to step on anyones towes, but to save A bunch of time doing all this leak down things. Just get A can of starting fluid & sprray it around all the gasket that you might think be leaking. if the idle goes up you know you have A leak. so much faster then doing all these pipes & gauges. just my .02 not to step on your "toes" but how exactly do you suppose you will spray starting fluid on a left side crank seal thats covered up by the flywheel? how about the right side crank seal thats washed in tranny fluid? i'm assuming from your reply that you must need a running engine to perform the type of test your recommending? well that would require that the flywheel be installed as well as the clutch cover. although some people might rely on a simple "starting fluid test" of the intake side of an engine most competent engine builders would rather do a leak down test to insure that all the seals in there engine are up to par before firing the engine up rather than risking a lean condition and smoking the engine because they "sprayed starting fluid" on the engine and nothing changed and assuming everything was ok then taking it on a ride... a leak down tests alot more than what can be discovered from simply spraying starting fluid on your engine, otherwise all engine builders would simply do this as opposed to purchasing all the equipment to perform these tests. if you think i'm being a dick it's because i am, your reply (to me at least) implys that the rest of us who do these tests to insure that the engines were building will run correctly are stupid and are missing something relatively simple and cheap that you have just informed us of. news flash! were not stupid! we've known about the spraying different things on your engine to find air leaks thing probably longer than you've been riding, the reason we dont rely on that is because it only shows the integrity of half of the seals in the engine... while your reply is welcome i believe it should be filed in the "epic fail" section simply because you havent done your homework on this topic but thanks for playing, it's given me something to go off about.... hope your having a wonderfull day... Edited November 19, 2009 by swrbansheeboy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ISSUES Posted November 19, 2009 Report Share Posted November 19, 2009 Very nicely said swrbansheeboy, Could not of said it any better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qboronyrican Posted March 8, 2010 Report Share Posted March 8, 2010 can a motor be leakdown tested with the fluids in it? i would assume i would have to remove the antifreeze at least and then i guess i have too plug the rad. hose spots? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swrbansheeboy Posted June 2, 2010 Report Share Posted June 2, 2010 nope, you can test with the coolant lines connected. technicly if your head gasket is sealed then you shouldnt lose any pressure from the top end... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.Marquette_6 Posted July 26, 2010 Report Share Posted July 26, 2010 Why do you guys only put 6PSI in the engine? I have an actual leak down tester, and from what we used them for at school in small engines we put more than 6PSI in an engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatHolland Posted August 4, 2010 Report Share Posted August 4, 2010 Thanks for the writeup man, works great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GhostRider Posted August 19, 2010 Report Share Posted August 19, 2010 can i do leak down test without the flywheel and stator plate? i mean can i do it with only case/trans (no clutch basket)/crack/topend... without the cooling lines that comes from radaitor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedd1 Posted August 19, 2010 Report Share Posted August 19, 2010 can i do leak down test without the flywheel and stator plate? i mean can i do it with only case/trans (no clutch basket)/crack/topend... without the cooling lines that comes from radaitor? The top end has to be assembled on the cases but you do not need stator, clutch, or cooling lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tripledsracing Posted October 15, 2010 Report Share Posted October 15, 2010 Why do you guys only put 6PSI in the engine? I have an actual leak down tester, and from what we used them for at school in small engines we put more than 6PSI in an engine. because you will blow the seals out!... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
252wheelieking Posted December 10, 2010 Report Share Posted December 10, 2010 Oh!!!!! Well then in that case. The answer is still no. I didn't have the freeze plugs in right and the gauge quickly let me know that. :biggrin: Im going to go get the equipment today to build a leak down tester as you have listed in your how to build post: Im assuming that when you remove the bottom/flathead screw of the tire pressure guage that disabled the pressure from being held in the pressure guage. the pressure release button is no longer needed correct? So it is ok to use the slime tire pressure guage with the pressure release button & get acturate results? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigblockbanshee Posted December 14, 2010 Report Share Posted December 14, 2010 I built mine a few nights ago. At first I got the wrong size pipes but luckily I had some at home that I could put in to correct it and it worked out better because I cut it to the length to where I now just push it all the way in until it bottoms out and tighten the boot clamp. I used pretty much the same stuff as everyone else does but I took a fuel pressure gauge from a nitrous kit that I had together once and it worked perfectly once installed. The only complaint I had was having to spend $7 on a PVC primer/glue kit for a measly 4 swipes of each. Anyhow my new piece ended up losing only 1 pound after 6 minutes. I was very satisfied to say the least. That is acceptable, right lol? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thrill-billy85 Posted December 29, 2010 Report Share Posted December 29, 2010 Im going to go get the equipment today to build a leak down tester as you have listed in your how to build post: Im assuming that when you remove the bottom/flathead screw of the tire pressure guage that disabled the pressure from being held in the pressure guage. the pressure release button is no longer needed correct? So it is ok to use the slime tire pressure guage with the pressure release button & get acturate results? thats the EXACT guage i put in the ones i sell. and YES they work, and work very well, but you have some modifacations to make first. the guages have a ball check valve in them, meaning once the ar goes INTO the guage, it doesnt come back out... which means i would NOT indicate a leak-down, if indeed there was a leak. to remove the ball check from the guage you simply unscrew the end cap, and dump all the little springs, o-rings, and brass peice out. honestly, a good way to make sure youve done it right is to perform your leak-down test, but instead of releasing the pressure via the pressure release button, remove a spark plug, and OBSERVE the guage falling. to answer your other questions.... if you use a flathead srcewdriver to remove the ball-check valve... youre doing it wrong. it unscrews easily with your fingers. and the pressure realease button will still work afterwards to bleed the 6psi off your seals quickly after waiting the 6 minutes.... hope it helps... i can provide pics if needed. or sell these for 35 shipped to your door. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.