ISSUES

Works for me.

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=126900

Here is the link on how to remove the gold finish that chevybanshee91 was talking about. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=121759&hl= remove wheels&st=0

Yea building and wiring it was easy "aleast for me" the hard part is the configuring and tuning and all that. Yes is am using a HEI module with a GM DIS coil for now, it helps keeping any voltage spike from the coil away from MS. Plan on changing it to like yours or going with EDIS 4 module with the 36-1 and COP to get better signal resolution and more updated engine speed then what I get now. Yes that answers fabrication side of things and setting for it which is better then get a msq file.Thanks Evan

No I don't want to cheat to get out of the work, I have been playing with MS for year and a half and have my 95 corsica with 3500v6 running MS2 with the extra code and my shee but i used the stock pick up and flywheel to send the signal. Was just wondering about the setting for the 36-1. Sorry the previous post sounded like I just wanted to steal, I just like to see what others do.

Awesome buildand the shee sound great , very nice job planning it out and laying it out to look like a professional job. Would you mind sharing your msq and tune files? Email me at kevinmaxey@msn.com thanks

Plan on use a walbro 255 fuel pump and megasqurit 2, as it is cheaper and I've built one before. No it will not hurt anything if you don't run a o2 sensor, just set the EGO step size to 0%. With MS the o2 only provides feedback for EGO correction. Most people running MS in their cars do not run o2 sensor, but they run wideband O2 sensor to a gauge not to the MS. As for different elevations MS 2 has a built in MAP for that, as for temps run a IAT and a temp sensor if you want.

When I plan on doing mine next year, I don’t plan on putting a o2 sensor. It's not needed for something like this, putting one in won't last so no point. When doing mine I will enter the values in to the fuel table, adjust as needed after doing plug chops. But that is what I’ll be doing, to each their own.

I believe this is the one your talking about, http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=126900

On the plug wires no it don't matter, the orange goes toward the front of the bike, black toward the back.

Fast has them, Give them a call.

2x that. Aleast she had a Christmas she won't forget .

I would of done the some thing, screw that stupid B$%@h.

Will i'm 310lbs 6'4", You can also count me as pretty athletic fat.

Ya it's a real fine texture like 120grit sand paper,really tough against scratches. The side cover I made my self from the stocker and some polycarbonate. Cheap and easy to do.

I prefer rustoleum bed coating in a rattle can, I think it looks way better

So what you are basicly say that when it is dark out side and our car are parked that we should go out and turn on the parking lights and go back in. It's all the fucking same thing.

Yes they came with rear tail light, all it is a parking light when you turn the head light on like your car. Brake lights didn't come to 2002

Good find Frizb99

Actually the high voltage that the stator puts out goes to capacitors in the CDI, and that voltage will be boost and then sent to the coil and then boosted again. Here is some goode reading material on CDI from http://www.jetav8r.com/Vision/Ignition/CDI.html CDI ("Capacitive Discharge Ignition) Commercial development of CDI happened around the mid 60's. Up till then it was regarded as worthless and even dangerous. Well.. the dangerous part is somewhat right as you will see. If your really bored here's a 1965 Danish sketch of an early CDI design and the bike it was tested on (a 90cc Kawasaki motorcycle). Automotive CDI was pioneered mainly by Bosch in Europe. In 1979 they introduced the "Bosch Motronic". Today we see a variety of names to include: Ford's TFI (Thick Film Integrated), GM's HEI (High Energy Ignition), DIS (Distributorless Ignition System), ECU (electronic control unit), and many others. CDI ignition is most widely used today on automotive and marine engines. A CDI module has "capacitor" storage of its own and sends a short high voltage (about 250+ volts) pulse through the coil. The coil now acts more like a transformer (instead of a storage inductor) and multiplies this voltage even higher. Modern CDI coils step up the voltage about 100:1. So, a typical 250v CDI module output is stepped up to over 25,000v output from the coil. The CDI output voltage of course can be higher. So you'll see CDI systems claiming coil output capability over 40,000-60,000 volts!!? As you will see this is not exactly what happens at the plug but for math purposes it works out. The huge advantage of CDI is the higher coil output and "hotter" spark. The spark duration is much shorter (about 10-12 microseconds) and accurate. This is better at high RPM but can be a problem for both starting and/or lean mixture/high compression situations. CDI systems can and do use "low" resistance coils. Again.... the differences Kettering (TCI) vs CDI With the Kettering Induction ignition design, the coils are powered all the time at 12 volts and are commanded to collapse to spark by the ignition module. Here, the ignition module disconnects the primary winding coil ground. The coil secondary winding collapses to spark at about 30,000 volts. In the CDI design, the coils are not powered. They receive a short high (250 volt) pulse from the ignition module and then amplify that (100:1) to a much larger voltage spike (about 40,000 volts) . Since the potential output of a CDI coil can be over 40,000 volts you have stickers all over your engine bay reminding you that: This can KILL you!! Advantages / Disadvantages of Electronic Ignition The advantages of solid state are numerous but the big one is : "no moving" parts. This should translate to control and reliability impossible to achieve in any mechanical system. The term "engine tune-up" is nearly meaningless with respect to modern ignition systems. Outside of replacing plugs and inspecting wiring there is not much else to do. More than a few mechanic shops exploit the public misunderstanding of modern engines. Having said that, the disadvantage of electronic ignition is simply reliability. A desktop computer circuit board should last a LONG time in theory, and yet you know quite clearly it does not sometimes. Ignitions have suffered the same evolution of making electronics that can stand the test of time. Early ignition systems were particularly prone to "component" breakdown. Anyone who has owned an older British sports cars will understand the term "the dark Lord of Lucas" (Lucas Electronics were notorious for their failure). Solid state components are particularly sensitive to heat, thermal stress, vibration, moisture, and power surges (basically, everything an engine is about). So, great strides have been made to beef up and improve CDI reliability. These include things like: Improved cooling and heat sinks Epoxy resin or Epoxy-rubber encasing components so they can't get wet Using separate ignition modules for each plug (so a single failure won't kill the whole engine). This concept was first exploited in outboards where each plug has a separate "power pack". Power pack failures were a big problem in the outboard industry for awhile and not funny when you are 60 miles from land in a small sport fisherman with 1 engine. Heavier duty components that can withstand the heat, vibration, and "duty cycles". What's Better? Induction -or- CDI? Clearly, CDI is being used for most all modern auto / motorcycle / marine applications. It is also the choice for most high rpm race engines. This is simply due to the ability to fine tune all aspects of the combustion process electronically. Where simplicity and reliability is a factor, induction systems have an advantage. That is why you see them most often in aircraft engines. High revving RPM control is not the emphasis but rather reliability. The longer spark duration of induction systems gives a better chance that combustion WILL take place! Anyone who has ever flown at night over mountainous terrain and has heard "auto-rough" knows what I'm talking about here.

Very nicely said swrbansheeboy, Could not of said it any better.

2x that. You could rewnd the ignition coil on the stator with the same gauge wire or a little smaller . By adding more winds to the poles would create high voltage, Higher voltage would create more spark.

Here is one of a few on here. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=120492 Here is one from over at Bluetraxx. http://www.bluetraxx.com/forums/yamaha-yfz350-banshee-1987-present/69300-e85.html

Not trying to be an ass try the searching, that topic has been covered many times in the past few months.

Same here I like to have a few more cores around.