thrill-billy85

Ahh so much to do here. First thing is a good compression check, next, visually check spark, and ensure the bowls are on the correct carbs. Could also be a dirty pilot circuit. The screw you're talking about (pilot) is actually called the air screw. It meters air in the pilot circuit

Well he had to buy a crank anyhow. I thought the biggest spacer you could run was 2 mm? Hes gonna have to make up for an addl 9mm of total stroke?

Helping out a friend with his banshee. He ordered a 4 mil long rod crank (against my advice) its not been ported, and will not be any time soon. Question is- whats needed in the way of piston choices, and possibly spacer plates (il advised I KNOW). Custom milled head?

Its a small block, i assume. He cant tell me much about it, and ive got zero experience with these. Any differences on the outside to look for?? Root- is it timing plate, flywheel, stator, pickup, cdi, and ignition?.... cause we'd need all that

Yeah. Hes got a 6 mil with the same setup. What he doesnt have is a pvl flywheel puller, tdc dial indicator, etc.

Finch.... you got one for sale???

Also.... before when it had the lectrons(alky), he had a guy try to set them up to run gas. They were able to get it running, and rode it a bit though it ran like total shit. It running like shit was due to improper carb set up. That issue is solved. Now, out of nowhere the ignition is going haywire. The ignition worked fine before, with no changes since, now something is going bad. Ive read something about some half moons? They can go bad, and theyre essentially like the pickup coil? Thatd cause BOTH ignition coils to not fire? Correct?

We gave it pretty good kicks. I even took one for the team and stuck my pinky in the boot, to see if itd shock me..... i didnt take one for the team needless to say. Lemme ask yall this.... why will it spark, and run the motor when it is cold, but then die after a minute of running, and not sparj thereafter. Its done this twice.

So a friend of mine recently got a 10mil twister cylinder banshee. Got it.converted back to gas today with some 38PWKs. Started right up, reved and idled fine (2 minutes).... then..... died. And wouldnt start. Checked the spark.... nothing... in either hole. It has a PVL ignition system which i am completely unfamiliar with. Any idears? We were able to start it before the carb swap, and it did the SAME thing. Started, reved okay (wrong carbs) and suddenly died, and wouldnt start.

Jeff at F.A.S.T for crank repairs.

Your crank bearings are done. The closed plug gap is from your piston kissing it on the up-stroke. Good luck man

I am gonna go with an airleak. Still got the boost bottle?

Thnx sprinkler

Yeah i didnt silicone them. Its a pretty jank way to do it. The owner of the bike got plowed by a friend, who, "knew what he was doing" Anyways, i need to track down some new boots for 35mm carbs. Any ideas

Can anyone tell me what kind of manifolds these are, and where i can get new boots?

Frint of the line. Make an offer

Still got em? Trade for a set of 38mil lectron alky carbs?

Yes

Trade the PWKs for a set of 38mm lectrons?

Bump

Ive got a set of 38mm lectron alcohol carbs. They have the clear plastic bowls, and packard power jets. $400, or trade for a set of 35PWKs 512-673-2991 just text me, im not on here often

dude those are rocket pipes.... dont fucking sell them... the originals are badass. they are the best imho. nice buy. ps if you have an o-ring chain dont put wd40 on it..... itll just dry out and cause the orings to crack

hey man i had this same problem at one point. i replaced my coil under the tank, and problem solved. see if you can borrow one off a running bike and try that. its gotta be between the coil and spark plug if it switches sides like that. the coil is where it splits so if its segregated to one cylinder (plug/wire) thats gotta be it.

did you ever figure it out??? i said the choke tube, because thats EXACTLY what happens when youre missing your choke tube... not to mention thats about the only thing you could have disturbed when you replaced your cable. as far as the bowls being on the wrong side..... if it started fine before and you didnt touch them since... then thats not your problem most likely. if you did have to take the bowls off to replace a throttle cable.... you are a retard lol another thing to check... make sure your slides are in the correct carb... if you switch them, they will in the carb backwards. i think the cut-out on the bottom of the slide is supposed to be on the filter side of the carbs...