switching tranny oil?

[cam2]

i've been running motul "transoil expert 2-stroke gearbox oil" at $8 a quart and i want to switch to standard 10w30 oil. i'm sure that this is good oil but at $8 a quart i find my self not changing the oil as often as i would like. if i ran regular oil then i would change it after every ride or every other ride depending on how long and hard i ride. i was wondering if it would hurt my clutch by switching from synthetic oil to standard oil? (i ran the motul since i put the new clutch in). if i were to switch i would put regular oil in and run it for a little bit and drain it in order to try and flush out the synthetic oil (maybe twice), but i'm not sure if that would work in order to save my clutch. any thoughts?

[Klotzban1]

I run Bel-Ray GearSaver in my Shee and had pretty good luck with it. I've owned my Shee for 4 years now and no tranny problems to complain about yet.

[bkabina]

I run Bel-Ray GearSaver in my Shee and had pretty good luck with it. I've owned my Shee for 4 years now and  no tranny problems to complain about yet.

367078[/snapback]

 

 

I agree on the Bel-Ray gear saver.

[Banshee~]

I run Bel-Ray GearSaver in my Shee and had pretty good luck with it. I've owned my Shee for 4 years now and  no tranny problems to complain about yet.

367078[/snapback]

I have ran 80w gearsaver for over a year now and im happy with it. Its around $6 or so a litter.

[ssanddemon]

It won't hurt anything to just switch out all at once. I use John Deere tractor oil; cheap and works great; gives great clutch feel. Big buck oil is not necessary on the shee trans. As long as you change it out often, the trans will hold up forever. Guys are running anything from tractor oil like me to ATF, Belray, and just plain 'ol 10W 30 crap oil. Not surprisingly, the main problems we hear about are bent shift forks & etc from abuse but not worn out gears, clutches or bearings from poor oil selection.

[banshee x]

my buddy switched from yamaha trans oil to mobil one 30w and did note even get three rides and lost second gear bushing,and hes about thirty five and doesn't ride near as hard as most of my other friends 10w30 is easy on the clutch hard on the tranny where 80-90w is hard on the clutch but much better for the trans,but everybody has something that works for them just my 2cents

[ssanddemon]

my buddy switched from yamaha trans oil to mobil one 30w and did note even get three rides and lost second gear bushing,and hes about thirty five and doesn't ride near as hard as most of my other friends 10w30 is easy on the clutch hard on the tranny where 80-90w is hard on the clutch but much better for the trans,but everybody has something that works for them just my 2cents

367090[/snapback]

I wouldn't be looking at the oil. Do you have any idea how many guys are beating the pi$$ out of their bike every weekend on WalMart ATF? And the bikes are fine, some of them are pretty old, too.

[locogato11283]

i run bel ray exl. its cheap and works well ive found.

[RNBRAD]

Chuck, no problems switching back and forth. Might look at a cheaper price for synthetic though, Mobil 1 15-50 is easily accessible and around 5 dollars a quart. Really awesome stuff and will protect better after 20hrs than dyno oil will new out of the bottle.

[hamuel]

All I got to say REDLINE LIGHTWEIGHT SHOCKPROOF gear oil. After a year of riding The oil is blue as the day i put it in there. and no metal sheavings at in the oil at all. and way better clutch feel then 10w-30 or any of the other stuff i've used. Thats what louie swan say to use to and not to change it for a year...

also remeber that 10w-30 oils got anti-friction chemicals in it. Which will increase trany life. but decrease the life of your clutch. Just a side note.

[MDS2106]

good ole tractor hyd.oil from walmart here,also make shifting a little easier,i was running silkolene but as often as i change my oil it was costing an arm and a leg

Edited May 10, 2005 by MDS2106

[SICK BOY]

I run Motul Transoil,here it costs $5.95 for a litter.

[.]

I run the hondo hp or whatever its called that comes in a red squeeze bottle. It's about 4.50 a bottle.

 

Looks a lot like atf but definitely not the same. I abuse the hell out of my clutch and its still grabbing strong after 4 years. Shifting is nice and easy, and I get quite a lot of ride time on the oil before I change it out.

 

I wont run anything else but it.

 

(unless I blow something out at hatfield mccoy and have to put another engine together etc.....then I'll be running atf)

[cam2]

Chuck, no problems switching back and forth. Might look at a cheaper price for synthetic though, Mobil 1 15-50 is easily accessible and around 5 dollars a quart. Really awesome stuff and will protect better after 20hrs than dyno oil will new out of the bottle.

367178[/snapback]

yeah i'm considering a synthetic motor oil or maybe a semi-synthetic motor oil which is cheaper than full synthetic oils. to my understanding it's fine to run motor oils just as long as they're not labeled "energy-conserving" which typicaly are the thinner oils (10w30 and thinner), typically 10w40 and thicker oils aren't labeled with the "energy-conserving" label. because the very thin "energy-conserving" oils contain extra amounts of friction modifiers which can cause the clutch to slip typically aren't recommended. hhhhhmmmmm?????