ssanddemon

Check out this thread from a few days ago, it's got most of what you are looking for. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=68599 The long and short of this is; weld it. Cranks can and have broken in completely unmodified engines. The accepted limit is porting, tho as stated, they can come apart at any time. Save your money on the Hot Rod crank, IMO. the stock one is a good unit and the welding is usually just $75 or so. Stock rods are decent as well until the power really gets jacked.

Shave the factory head, it's cheap. Mine doesn't overheat, ever. That gives a very noticeable bang for the buck. Shave the flywheel, also cheap; and while you have the 'wheel off, slot the stator mounting holes for a timing increase. Keep in mind that these mods are gonna make it pickier on fuel selection- mine doesn't ping on 92 octane even at 155 psi and 7* timing, but yours might end up needing half-and-half race gas and super to run right.- It will haul ass though. Mine gives a huge increase switching from super unlead to half-and-half. V-force reeds will help a hell of a lot, tho they aren't cheap like the other mods are. I have PT Mids and I like them a lot, but they really are for a motor that has been ported a bit. I don't think they are gonna give much on a stock motor. Toomey TR-6s of FMFs aqre gonna be more the ticket there. And as stated, a sprocket change (13 tooth) will help a lot, closing up the gaps between gears and shortening them a bit. Top speed goes from like 95 to 80 or so, still pretty fast.

My shee sucked a reed last year on the second rip up Dumont. All I had was the spare emergency bike, a 400EX belonging to my buddy's girlfriend. Lemme tell ya, it was LAME! Multiple tries to barely make it up the tall dunes even with a running start; my bike had been pulling gears all the way. My $.02 : go straight to a 13 tooth sprocket and gear down from there.

As far as why it blew up, we need lots more; spare no detail on jetting, altitude, temps and all the mods, etc. If you want to dig into the motor yourself, a Clymer book will guide you every step of the way- it's a really easy motor to tear down. I can almost do em blindfolded and I'm not a builder or anything. It's kinda nice to know you built it yourself. And last but not least, keep in mind that as frustrating as it is, it's nowhere near as bad as blowing up a badass car engine, which I have done- almost $10k up in smoke about 3 seconds into a run.

I bought a Polaris RMK 700 last year. Primo shape, low miles (1200). Does 120 MPH, climbs anything, and was $3k. Makes track conversions seem dumb.

If your bike is running right with 310s it should blow away a 450 no contest. BUT: been hearing lots bad about WSM pistons and WHY THE F... would someone bore stock cyls 40 over? -Just took several lifetimes off em. Otherwise sounds like a decent ride if the maint. has been kept up.

Only 2 wires go to the switch. Connector them up and you're set. I did mine on the switch side of the plug so I can unplug the end and take it with me like a key for camp security.

We're tryin to help you, nimrod! Are you talking about the electrical plug?

The basic rule is: port it, weld it. Bolt-ons won't usually make enough power to kill a crank although I'm sure it's happened. Keep in mind that warranty is only as good as the company behind it. Many insurers will fight to keep from paying warranty claims and will demand service records and etc. Is the factory giving warranty, or is it a shyster dealership?

Probably not. There is no adjustment for the lever, it just pushes against the master cylinder pushrod from a raised section at the back of the lever. This issue can only be caused by a mismatch of parts, like the lever not machined just right or the reservoir feed hole a bit too far forward in the master itself. Something to try: remove the lever and grind back the area that pushes against the pushrod. I bet when the lever comes off, you will find that it has been holding the pushrod back quite a bit from the fully released position. If you had the brakes binding at the time, they would instantly release when the lever comes off. Get a bit of clearance here, and I bet it will then bleed out pretty easy and work OK.

Little more info would be nice. So you got rid of TORS to go to a twist, now you are trying to hook all the TORS shit back up to make your new TORS- type cable work? This is kind of a confusing one because the bike shouldn't rev no matter what unless the slides are stuck (or installed backward) or if the bike is sucking air or out of gas (super lean).

The lever is not letting the pushrod (in the master) back all the way. The cylinder cup is not allowing fluid to return to the master reservioir because of this, so fluid which is now trapped in the lines will expand with heat, causing the brakes to apply. Seen it a bunch on cars where a guy installs a new brake master and gets the adjustment wrong, this is a textbook symptom.

I rode my buddies 700 raptor a couple of months ago, what a joke. Mild 450's were smoking that bike easily, it was a real bummer to race on. It was nice and easy to wheelie, tho. Just felt like it was dragging a sand anchor in the drags and hillclimbs. What a relief to jump back on the shee after that thing, I felt like a real puss on it.

You get no benefit from spacers. They are used to clear the clutch arm on bigger carburetors and to pry money from newbie banshee riders. but to answer your question, they go in between the reed and jug.

I used Honda HP-2 for a while but got tired of spending the $$$; changing oil after every few rides it added up fast. Started using JD-20 tractor oil since I get it for free, works great. Seems like every guy here runs something different in the trans, from 80 wt. to ATF. It all works, but the key is to change very often if the bike is running in the dunes due to clutch fiber contamination. If I were running in the woods, the Honda stuff would high on my list of good oils and I would change it every 20 rides or so. P.S. The book sez 1.5 qts. but most guys run 2 qts to better lubricate the clutch rod and ball.

I'm glad you didn't think of me as a flamer. Sounds like you have got the right mindset to own a bike like this. As well as buddies with serious hardware and experience to ride with you. That bike will rock at Dumont!

I dunno if I really like the idea of having someone else build the ENTIRE bike for you-I know; it's your money so whatever. I sound like a preachy bastid but it comes from dealing with newbie buddies who bite off more than they can chew in regards to their wrenching skills. Every guy I know with even a somewhat built shee has to do a lot of work after and sometimes during virtually every ride. Not to mention tearing down carbs for rejet even in sandsorms, etc. We love our bikes, love wrenching on 'em so it's all good. But this is with stuff not even a tenth as built as what you'll have. Are you sure you can handle the crap that is gonna come down when you are running basically a top fuel dragster? It's gonna be picky and you had better know your crap unless you want to be doing a lot of sitting while your buddies are having fun and your bike is screwed up again. Or having to beg a lot of help. Speaking from experience here, I have bailed out lots of guys at the dunes who don't have a clue. Edit: And if you really do know your stuff and can handle a beast like that...congrats!

If ya got 340s in there THATS FRIGGIN' HUGE! You will probably end up with 280s or so. Keep in mind that the pilot jet (25 is stock) combined with the air screws cover idle to 1/3rd or so throttle, needles are the midrange and mains are the upper end. Since the needles are partially plugging the mains as their form of metering, the two are intertwined- larger or smaller mains will affect the needle mixture. So maybe 280s, stock pilots and needles in the middle. Bet that gets you pretty close.

Betcha the reg. is unplugged/bad ground or etc. The Ricky does't need brighter bulbs; the output is just available at 200W-the bulb resistance takes what it needs at 12-14volts.

I had the same thing; bought the mag plug after I had been running mine for a couple of years. Freaked me out with all the steel fuzz stuck to that magnet, but I figured that it was picking up all the crud that had always dropped into the cases before I could get the oil out. Just changed oil today after three hard days of duning, just the tiniest bit of fuzz geting on the mag now.

Rocky Mtn. is kinda the baseline for good prices and great service. I like to use Motosport as well, they have some great deals on shipping and lots of closeout goodies.

Got the single K&N on my second shee and I use panty hose to keep the sand off. Just remove and wrap it all the way around the filter, tying it off on the end. Put the hose clamp that mounts the filter to the adapter over the top of the pantyhose and tighten it down. Works great!

Keep in mind that duning is really hard on the clutch, you just gotta abuse the crap out of it. I change mine every second to fourth ride depending on how hard I was beating on the clutch, fluid usually comes out dark from clutch material. A guy who rides track or woods could change it a lot less and be just fine.

Honestly, I couldn't tell much difference. The star is supposed to help getting into neutral, but been having problems with getting the clutch to release fully. Shee wants to creep and it's real hard to find neutral. And yes all the adjustments are right. Gonna get rid of the Toomey clutch and get the FAST setup and move on from there. I have Blaster pegs which needs a real short shifter, and this is making it worse with less leverage and throw on the shift lever. The proshift is supposed to be a good mod, and I am planning on sticking one in when I do the new clutch. Sorry not much help here, but my mods have each other a bit crossed up and not working just right.

This guy at D&M is a fatheadif he thinks that pods give performance gains- they don't. Actually a single filter should give slightly better performance in theory- since each carb sucks air alternately from the other, they don't fight each other for air. In fact, since the air volume is always kept moving rather than the on/off vacuum a single carb gives, there should be a bit of scavenging effect. The reason to run pods is ease of carb tuning; it's a lot easier to open up the carbs with pods, most of the time I never take em off when tearing the carbs apart.