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DIY Easy shift transmission mod


SlowMoe

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those pictures above is why i prefer to use a mill with coolant set up.

 

if you whack the tops of the dogs there is a chance of the gears poping out or ratcheting and screwing up your shift forks. the clips need to go on a certain direction to avoid them poping out the groves the snap rings can be reused but i always check the straight edge to make sure they are ok most times i just get a new set and install them on the mod that i do.

 

i most always need the manual around to help me reasemble them i have done it a BUNCH of times but i cannot rember it by heart ( plus i dont want to screw it up HA)

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I'm just saying be careful and go slow. Once it gets hot enough that you cannot hold it in your hand, you have no idea how hot it is. It doesn't take much with a cutting wheel to get red hot at the cut.

I am not a metallurgist or a machinist. But I have screwed up enough stuff to know that the way this has been done has the potential for very bad results.

I sincerely hope it works.

 

Rick

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  • 2 months later...

I know a LOT of machinists that would be happy to do this sort of thing for you for a few beers or some pizza after work. A bridgeport with a good carbide end-mill & a rotary table can do this whole job in about 15-20min.

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Does this mod decrease the transmission's ability to hold a lot of power?

 

I understand the idea behind the mod, and yes a mill with coolant is optimal, but usually not available without paying a price.

what it decreases in durability, is that there is a large distance for the gears to slam between loadings. basically, don't jog the load between throttle/decell and it should be good and hold as much power as the gear faces can handle. what concerns me is that face chatter i could see. i would be looking more at that, as worn bushing(s) or debris. generally, a cutting/grinding wheel is not used, but it can help getting through the hardened surface, like cutting the top of the cog, so you can more easily get a mill, or carbide bit in there, and cooling/cutting oil of some sort really helps for heat, clean-out, and keeping the shavings/cuttings localized for cleanliness. i rarely get shavings from anything more than 2' from my work, and it's all wipe-up cleaning... as for the temper/heat of the metal, rule of thumb- blue/black spots indicate that you have reached/exceeded the temper point of the metal, which is bad, since it is highly localized and will stress the heck out of that area from the thermal expansion/contraction, so you want to avoid that. either way, by cutting the dog, you have physically/literally removed that portion of the tempered metal, so.......duh. what's under it is not tempered, since the temper does not go all the way through the metal. only way to get it back is to have the whole gear relaxed, then tempered as a whole, but it does not matter that much, since there is no longer much stress/load on that area anyways...... so, ugly cuts, well yah, but that's mostly aesthetics that don't much matter, unless there is anything left to catch. only thing i could see having any problem, is the nicks to the backside if the teeth. there was temper there, but not likely anymore..... in short, the cutting wheel is not the best choice to use start-to-finish, but is ok, if you don't want to buy, or have carbide or mill options in your arsenal.....

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This mod is a bad idea if you have a high hp banshee.

 

The 99-02 yamaha R6 has a trans with 3 dogs, and some of those bikes (mine included) had problems with the dogs wearing down and the trans slipping because they only had 3 dogs. I later had to replace my 02 r6 trans with a 2004 r6 transmission because it had 6 dogs instead. PITA.

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This mod is a bad idea if you have a high hp banshee.

 

The 99-02 yamaha R6 has a trans with 3 dogs, and some of those bikes (mine included) had problems with the dogs wearing down and the trans slipping because they only had 3 dogs. I later had to replace my 02 r6 trans with a 2004 r6 transmission because it had 6 dogs instead. PITA.

 

This is not true. Any of the override transmissions you buy have this mod done and there are tons of bikes with overrides running around. I would also ask you to consider how many drive dogs vs driven dogs there are on each gear set. Take a look at some stock gears and you will see what i am talking about. There are only 3 engagement points even on a completely stock trans. In each gear set, 1 gear has 3 dogs and its mating gear has 6. We are simply removing every other one from the gear with 6 dogs to increase the time the bike has between shifts ensuring that it goes all the way in to gear. If you have ridden a banshee much you surely have missed a shift while banging through the gears and this helps to lessen that.

 

This is how i do mine.

 

IMG_20101123_161913.jpg

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well, one huge difference in riding a street bike vs. banshee....... generally, you do a lot of jogging the load on the bike on the streets...... which is the condition i mentioned earlier..... and they are usually more torque than some gears in the stock banshee clusters can handle on the gearfaces anyways....

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  • 8 months later...

This is how i do mine.

 

IMG_20101123_161913.jpg

 

Not a opinion...a FACT

 

 

 

I have cut three overrides that i did NOT cut these splines out and it shift perfectly fine...i think cuttting these out causes the dogs to SLAM into the splines harder and causing the dogs to break off...as long as the drum is cut right and dogs cut on a 45 degree it WILL shift fine.....HBT !

Edited by stroking
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