2strokenit

I agree with Finch, take them apart and clean em and set em.

Hey G-Touch, I run T-5's with stock carbs, box removed, 2 into 1 filter and reed spacers. I have the exact settings that came with the kit in my tool box at work next time I'm there I will grab them. Off the top of my head I think the settings were 280 mains the needles had to be changed but he pilots stayed stock. It hits hard and keeps pulling but could use some tweaking to make it more rideable.

Kenda Knarly's work well and are very predictable to slide around, they wear well too.

I've heard of people moving the rezzie to under the front plastics to help with cooling. Does this really help, I can't see how?

Is there any way of removing the rotating spool from the RZ cylinders so the port timing is fixed, just asking because I also have a RZ engine and looking at my options. Thanks.

Thanks for the info it might help me, I'm currently trying to decide how to go with the new rebuild. So many options. Thanks again for your time.

Hey guys do you have to port the cylinders in order to run a 4mil crank, an case mods. Sorry to jump in but I saw you were talking about 4mil cranks. Thanks.

How does the bike run when your driving it?

The cages on the reeds will limit the engine rpm, if you remove them you can over rev the engine or bust the reed pedals off- learned that one from experience.

Thanks for the good news Finch, I think I can clean them up and stay within the .080. Thanks again.

The reason I ask is the cylinders are .060 over now and there is a big score in one side from when the engine let go, broke one rod off the crank, bent the crank and destroyed the top end. Need new crank and pistons and was hoping not to have replace the cylinders if I don't need to at this time. That is why I was wondering how big I can go, not for more power just trying to save a little money and just get back to ripping it around. Thanks for your replies and for your time.

Hey everyone I was wondering how big I can bore stock cylinders without running into problem later. Its on a 96 shee with T5's, reeds and reed spacers, geared one tooth. Also how will this effect the jetting, I will need to go bigger due to the increase in cylinder size. Thanks for your time.

The heat cycles are a good idea on a fresh rebuild, it helps the engine seal properly before to rip it.

Sounds like it would be easier to use the RZ bottom end with the Banshee stator and flywheel, but good to know that someone can do it. Thanks for the post.

I have a complete bottom end from a RZ thats why I was wondering what would fit and not fit. Thanks for the info, it will come in handy. Thanks again.