NYUK Posted December 29, 2008 Report Posted December 29, 2008 sometimes you gotta run it with the arrows not lined up. on my drag bikes they never were. i either had to adjust it or bend my lever out to where i got a lil more leverage,. Quote
dajogejr Posted December 29, 2008 Report Posted December 29, 2008 Wes....try 6 stock springs. Is it a slingshot or finger style lockup? Any extra weight on it? If you're revving it pretty high with a lockup...it's trying to counteract you pulling the clutch. If it's half throttle or less...I say it's in the arrow adjustment. If you're near pinning the throttle...try to let off a little... I usually line my arrows up a little outside as well... Quote
bbcmudtruck Posted December 29, 2008 Report Posted December 29, 2008 My bike crept when I was on the starting line reving the piss out it. It ended up being a worn hub and plate. Quote
wesw Posted December 30, 2008 Author Report Posted December 30, 2008 Wes....try 6 stock springs. Is it a slingshot or finger style lockup? Any extra weight on it?If you're revving it pretty high with a lockup...it's trying to counteract you pulling the clutch. If it's half throttle or less...I say it's in the arrow adjustment. If you're near pinning the throttle...try to let off a little... I usually line my arrows up a little outside as well... just went to double check the arrows line up maybe lil towards the clutch side talking lil. its a finger style direct drive one. the weights are what came with it some bolts with lock nuts on it. seems to be half throttle to pinned it rolls. what side do you line it up on the "outside" clutch side or stator. i have a complete billet hinson basket, hub, plate everything is in great shape not worn out. Quote
locogato11283 Posted December 30, 2008 Report Posted December 30, 2008 did you try adjusting the clutch on the perch? Quote
dajogejr Posted December 30, 2008 Report Posted December 30, 2008 Wes... Line it up a little outside the arrow on the case. In other words...towards the footpeg on the stator side. Probably a good idea to make sure the cable isn't stretched as well...but I line mine up a little outside the arrows. With a lockup and pancake...it might not be disengaging fully...and giving it the throttle makes it worse. I normally stage at half throttle...once it's ready to go green, pin it and feather the clutch out. Don't dump it.... Quote
wesw Posted December 30, 2008 Author Report Posted December 30, 2008 there isnt much more adjustment at the lever i dont run a lot of free play. tyler dave by moving closer to the stator side wouldnt that cause the rod to not allow enough throw to push the pressure plate off the fibers. Quote
dajogejr Posted December 30, 2008 Report Posted December 30, 2008 Nope....it's how I run mine. I'm not talking a lot...maybe 1/8 inch at the arrows. I've never used an 8 disk setup in my bike...but I have used an extra steel plate in the middle. I've always lined it up on my 10 mil this way.... Quote
lunatic Posted December 30, 2008 Report Posted December 30, 2008 (edited) Did you put the steels all in one direction? Put the rounded sides going all the same direction it dosent matter in or out but they should be going the same direction. If you have a sharp side than a rounded they wont release the same. Edited December 30, 2008 by lunatic Quote
rubberneck Posted December 30, 2008 Report Posted December 30, 2008 wesw, bansh-eman runs an 8 plate set up. I just saw in another post where he was saying he couldn't rely on the arrows with that set up. I believe he said he runs the adjuster all the way in until he can just feel it contact the rod and then backs it off a 1/4 turn. you might pm him for the exact details and procedure he uses. Quote
375hp banshees Posted December 30, 2008 Report Posted December 30, 2008 wesw, bansh-eman runs an 8 plate set up. I just saw in another post where he was saying he couldn't rely on the arrows with that set up. I believe he said he runs the adjuster all the way in until he can just feel it contact the rod and then backs it off a 1/4 turn. you might pm him for the exact details and procedure he uses. That makes sense Quote
shanYE west Posted December 30, 2008 Report Posted December 30, 2008 I dont go by the arrows anymore.. clutch fibers and steels all have different thickness so using the arrows as a indicator with after market clutches is pretty useless.. I turn the adjust screw till it hits.. then back it out 1/8 or 1/16 of a turn.. what ever feels right at the moment. Quote
dragbanshee Posted December 30, 2008 Report Posted December 30, 2008 I dont go by the arrows anymore.. clutch fibers and steels all have different thickness so using the arrows as a indicator with after market clutches is pretty useless.. I turn the adjust screw till it hits.. then back it out 1/8 or 1/16 of a turn.. what ever feels right at the moment. This is great, you learn something new on this forum everytime you log on, the only problem I have is remembering all of it. Quote
BellicoseBanshee Posted December 30, 2008 Report Posted December 30, 2008 I have a complete billet hinson basket, hub, plate everything is in great shape not worn out. wesw, bansh-eman runs an 8 plate set up. I just saw in another post where he was saying he couldn't rely on the arrows with that set up. I believe he said he runs the adjuster all the way in until he can just feel it contact the rod and then backs it off a 1/4 turn. you might pm him for the exact details and procedure he uses.Wes, my friend has the same clutch as you, and he adjusts his the same way bansh-eman does it. On my cub, I have the spring tension basket with stock inner hub, stock pressure plate, stock springs, and a cascade clutch. I adjust it the same way, with one exception: I have to put a little pressure on the arm and it is perfect. The only time the case arrows worked for me was when I had a completely stock clutch... Quote
dajogejr Posted December 30, 2008 Report Posted December 30, 2008 On my cub, I have the spring tension basket with stock inner hub, stock pressure plate, stock springs, and a cascade clutch. I adjust it the same way, with one exception: I have to put a little pressure on the arm and it is perfect. Funny you mention that...are you guys adjusting that without pushing on it? (the arm) I always push the arm by hand...adjust it till it just separates the clutch...then back it down to align just outside the arrows lining up. I learned a long time ago don't go by the clutch lever feel...lots more leverage there. Quote
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