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Posted

Just like the title says guys, how important is it to torque the nuts and bolts to the correct specs? Im talking about case nuts and bolts, flywheel nut, clutch basket nut, etc. I dont have a torque wrench and am just wondering how critical this is?

 

Thanks

Posted
It is very important. Go spend the money on a decent torque wrench. Its better to spend a little money on a torque wrench then alot on broken parts because they were not torqued right

I agree go buy a torque wrench you will save yourself a lot of headaches if you do!

Posted
It is very important. Go spend the money on a decent torque wrench. Its better to spend a little money on a torque wrench then alot on broken parts because they were not torqued right

Does the torque wrench just ensure the nuts/bolts etc wont come loose under pressure?

Posted
Does the torque wrench just ensure the nuts/bolts etc wont come loose under pressure?

By using a torque wrench it ensurse you dont break the head off the bolts and end up trying to get out a bunch of broken bolts and it also makes sure they are tight enough so they dont come loose with all the viberation going on.

Posted

Also, when you are doing a topend having a torque wrench insures that the nuts are evenly tightened down. If the nuts on the head are not evenly tightened it could warp the head. Then there are things like your flywheel. The crank shaft is tapered for the flywheel and if you dont torque it correctly the flywheel wont set right and it could sheer your woodruff key

Posted

better yet, borrow a torque wrench. Im almost positive that you would know someone that has one that would be happy to let you use it. when you think about it, having tollerences of .001's of inchs to deal with, its cheap insurance.

Posted (edited)

The only thing I torque to spec is the cylinder head and clutch bolts.

 

22ft lbs. on the head, 7.5 ft. lbs on the clutch.

 

ON the flywheel nut I hit it with an air impact and use red loctite.

 

As said, you must do a criss cross pattern tightening the head down.

I tighten each one to 10, 15, 20 than 22 ft. lbs.

Edited by dajogejr
Posted

I know Dajo knows his shit, but the manual I had years and years ago said 18-20 ft-lbs on cylinder and head, and after using heli coils X 5 in my old cylinders, I torque closer to the 18 side, 19 at most. I run 225 lbs of compression and have no problem at 18 ft-lbs.

Posted
The only thing I torque to spec is the cylinder head and clutch bolts.

 

22ft lbs. on the head, 7.5 ft. lbs on the clutch.

 

ON the flywheel nut I hit it with an air impact and use red loctite.

 

As said, you must do a criss cross pattern tightening the head down.

I tighten each one to 10, 15, 20 than 22 ft. lbs.

ditto, I also torque my case halfs, other then that get it nice and snug, and if it is on a rotating part, loctite.

Posted
By using a torque wrench it ensurse you dont break the head off the bolts and end up trying to get out a bunch of broken bolts

 

I dont know how many posts I have seen on here where some one was using a torque wrench and twisted off a bolt.

Posted
I dont know how many posts I have seen on here where some one was using a torque wrench and twisted off a bolt.

indeed, once those bolts have been toruqed and removed a few times and put under stress, they are going to stretch and become weaker. a torque wrench will not stop it from snapping at that point. By thens its just a roll of the dice.

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