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Tim Potteiger

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About Tim Potteiger

  • Birthday 08/14/1978

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Tulsa, OK

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  • My Banshee (optional)
    1998 Blue and White, ported, lone star and works suspenion, Noss head, FMF pipes, 36 Lectron carbs

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  1. /agreed Cubs lose 10 HP with T5s or FMFs vs Shearer or CPI, and Cubs are not meant for casual riding, it's a drag motor, use a drag pipe
  2. The "Jet Needle" goes through the main jet, not the pilot. The stock Mikuni carb has a fuel pilot jet, air pilot screw adjustment, needle jet, jet needle, main fuel jet, main air jet. The main jet sits in the needle jet, and the jet needle goes down through this assembly. The only adjustment you need to make should be the main fuel jet, and it sounds like you have been steered correctly on that. 300 to 310 will probably be about right. You might possibly need to turn the air pilots out to 2 turns, but 1.5 is a good start as stated previously. This carb tuning is very simple, don't let it get over complicated. Sudco has diagrams and parts lists if you would like to see the internal parts: http://www.sudco.com/vmpart.html http://www.sudco.com/Diagrams123/expvm.gif This one is also essentially the same carb, just a better diagram: http://www.sudco.com/Diagrams123/vm26-606.gif
  3. First of all you won't notice clutch slip until you are beyond 2nd (3rd or higher) gear wrapping out if the plates are worn, so that wouldn't explain a boggy 1st gear. I would definitely start by JUNKING that coil and ignition for a stock one. CDIs are either good or bad 99.9% of the time, that is they work or they don't, like a light bulb. If you don't know how to seat of pants tune a Banshee plug chopping (mildly effective method at best), you should head in to a local shop with a dyno that has an O2 sniffer, invest the 90 or so dollars and get it dialed in exactly. By doesn't have a lot of power, what is your basis for comparison? You also said you had a dune port job, who did it, what changes did they make to your ports? A hogged out intake port could cause really slow intake velocity which would create some nasty low end bog. The compression at 145lbs would indicate the exhaust port was left stock, which is typical of a dune port. My one other 2 cents is that I have heard of a Dynogy (spelling?) coil not working properly and losing 10-14 HP due to not using BR plugs. The non resistor plugs were actually causing interference in the coil and just robbing the bike of all its power. What plugs are you running?
  4. I know Dajo knows his shit, but the manual I had years and years ago said 18-20 ft-lbs on cylinder and head, and after using heli coils X 5 in my old cylinders, I torque closer to the 18 side, 19 at most. I run 225 lbs of compression and have no problem at 18 ft-lbs.
  5. The 450 is the obvious choice for MX (Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki), although a Banshee can be a great track bike too. I ride mine in the sand and on MX tracks. I am a good size guy, and for me sitting on any 450 or even 250r, the bike feels like it was made for a little kid. The Banshee motor will definitely work you harder on an MX track than the 4 pokes will, so it takes more skill to ride a Banshee on MX. You have to work hard to keep the RPMs up and really focus on not bogging the motor out of a corner into a jump. The 4 pokes do have the power right there all the time, which would be nice I will admit. That being said, no 4 poker will ever keep up with me in the sand on my Banshee through the trails and whoops. I guess it all boils down to how you like to ride. I prefer the Banshee over all the new "better" built quads with equal suspension mods done to both. The 4 pokes feel small and not very stable to me in cornering. My opinion: stock vs stock = 4 pokes hands down, but modded vs modded = Banshee
  6. Sounds lean to me, and very lean at that.
  7. I agree with needing to do your homework first. From my experience, most people want a port job for a big pretty dyno number. The engine builder starts grinding away raising the exhaust port, opening the intakes, etc, and you end up with a motor that has 0 bottom end, but screams so hard from 8000rpm up. Great for drag racing, but if you like to trail ride and just dune, do your homework first so you don't end up with some wild 80hp+ motor that is not dune-able.
  8. CDIs are mostly bad or good, in my experience there is rarely an in between for stock CDIs.
  9. Man, I really want to downsize more than that. 1mm is hardly a difference. I love my Lectron Carbs, but they are just too big for my now back to stock motor. Best case scenario, I would love some 30mm Lectrons, but I have a feeling very few people have 30mm Lectrons as most go big when they go Lectron, so I am hoping to settle for a set of 28 PWKs or just go back stock as a last resort.
  10. Email me if interested, tim@redflametech.com.
  11. I want a set of 28 or 30mm carbs. I currently have a set 36mm HV Lectrons. I know you indicated you wanted PWKs, but I thought i might toss it out here, since I am looking to go down and you want to go up. I do have the K&N pods for them that could go with them, but I don't care about getting pods since I went back to an air box.
  12. Do you have pictures of the 30s? Are they the older style with static powerjets or the new ones with adjustable?
  13. I am looking to downsize my carburetors due to recent engine changes (went back stock more or less). I would like a set of Lectron 30s, but might be willing to trade for any good 28-32mm carb. Any interest, email me tim@redflametech.com.
  14. Lone Star sells ball joints to replace stock, but I have no idea if they will be the same as the J-arm ball joint. You might call them.
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