Tim Potteiger

/agreed Cubs lose 10 HP with T5s or FMFs vs Shearer or CPI, and Cubs are not meant for casual riding, it's a drag motor, use a drag pipe

The "Jet Needle" goes through the main jet, not the pilot. The stock Mikuni carb has a fuel pilot jet, air pilot screw adjustment, needle jet, jet needle, main fuel jet, main air jet. The main jet sits in the needle jet, and the jet needle goes down through this assembly. The only adjustment you need to make should be the main fuel jet, and it sounds like you have been steered correctly on that. 300 to 310 will probably be about right. You might possibly need to turn the air pilots out to 2 turns, but 1.5 is a good start as stated previously. This carb tuning is very simple, don't let it get over complicated. Sudco has diagrams and parts lists if you would like to see the internal parts: http://www.sudco.com/vmpart.html http://www.sudco.com/Diagrams123/expvm.gif This one is also essentially the same carb, just a better diagram: http://www.sudco.com/Diagrams123/vm26-606.gif

First of all you won't notice clutch slip until you are beyond 2nd (3rd or higher) gear wrapping out if the plates are worn, so that wouldn't explain a boggy 1st gear. I would definitely start by JUNKING that coil and ignition for a stock one. CDIs are either good or bad 99.9% of the time, that is they work or they don't, like a light bulb. If you don't know how to seat of pants tune a Banshee plug chopping (mildly effective method at best), you should head in to a local shop with a dyno that has an O2 sniffer, invest the 90 or so dollars and get it dialed in exactly. By doesn't have a lot of power, what is your basis for comparison? You also said you had a dune port job, who did it, what changes did they make to your ports? A hogged out intake port could cause really slow intake velocity which would create some nasty low end bog. The compression at 145lbs would indicate the exhaust port was left stock, which is typical of a dune port. My one other 2 cents is that I have heard of a Dynogy (spelling?) coil not working properly and losing 10-14 HP due to not using BR plugs. The non resistor plugs were actually causing interference in the coil and just robbing the bike of all its power. What plugs are you running?

I know Dajo knows his shit, but the manual I had years and years ago said 18-20 ft-lbs on cylinder and head, and after using heli coils X 5 in my old cylinders, I torque closer to the 18 side, 19 at most. I run 225 lbs of compression and have no problem at 18 ft-lbs.

The 450 is the obvious choice for MX (Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki), although a Banshee can be a great track bike too. I ride mine in the sand and on MX tracks. I am a good size guy, and for me sitting on any 450 or even 250r, the bike feels like it was made for a little kid. The Banshee motor will definitely work you harder on an MX track than the 4 pokes will, so it takes more skill to ride a Banshee on MX. You have to work hard to keep the RPMs up and really focus on not bogging the motor out of a corner into a jump. The 4 pokes do have the power right there all the time, which would be nice I will admit. That being said, no 4 poker will ever keep up with me in the sand on my Banshee through the trails and whoops. I guess it all boils down to how you like to ride. I prefer the Banshee over all the new "better" built quads with equal suspension mods done to both. The 4 pokes feel small and not very stable to me in cornering. My opinion: stock vs stock = 4 pokes hands down, but modded vs modded = Banshee

Sounds lean to me, and very lean at that.

I agree with needing to do your homework first. From my experience, most people want a port job for a big pretty dyno number. The engine builder starts grinding away raising the exhaust port, opening the intakes, etc, and you end up with a motor that has 0 bottom end, but screams so hard from 8000rpm up. Great for drag racing, but if you like to trail ride and just dune, do your homework first so you don't end up with some wild 80hp+ motor that is not dune-able.

CDIs are mostly bad or good, in my experience there is rarely an in between for stock CDIs.

Man, I really want to downsize more than that. 1mm is hardly a difference. I love my Lectron Carbs, but they are just too big for my now back to stock motor. Best case scenario, I would love some 30mm Lectrons, but I have a feeling very few people have 30mm Lectrons as most go big when they go Lectron, so I am hoping to settle for a set of 28 PWKs or just go back stock as a last resort.

Email me if interested, tim@redflametech.com.

What type?

I want a set of 28 or 30mm carbs. I currently have a set 36mm HV Lectrons. I know you indicated you wanted PWKs, but I thought i might toss it out here, since I am looking to go down and you want to go up. I do have the K&N pods for them that could go with them, but I don't care about getting pods since I went back to an air box.

Do you have pictures of the 30s? Are they the older style with static powerjets or the new ones with adjustable?

I am looking to downsize my carburetors due to recent engine changes (went back stock more or less). I would like a set of Lectron 30s, but might be willing to trade for any good 28-32mm carb. Any interest, email me tim@redflametech.com.

Lone Star sells ball joints to replace stock, but I have no idea if they will be the same as the J-arm ball joint. You might call them.

I am going with adjustment on this one. As someone else stated, do you know how to adjust the lever? This sounds like the more likely reason the clutch is not working. Usually as the fibers wear out, the clutch slips, not grabs at idle.

240 is too lean for stock carbs with aftermarket pipes. I am not familiar with Aliens, but if they are anything like FMF or Toomey, then you need to be at least 280+ on the main. With stock needles, you might even need over 300.

Banshee's do not have a thermostat. Change the plug caps and see if that other cylinder idles. Did you ever leak down test the motor after replacing the crank?

1. Put the clip back in the middle notch for starters. 2. Make sure your slides aren't installed backwards--slide cutaways to the rear of the bike. 3. If you remove the radiator cap and rev the motor and fluid does not run over the top, then your cooling is fine. 4. If you have stock intakes, make sure the equalizer tube is on and installed properly. 5. If one cylinder is not running at idle even with brand new plugs, then change the plug caps. The behavior of running only when choked is very indicative of an air leak or slides installed backwards.

2 strokes in general, and especially Banshees are very notorious for having a "dead" spot before the power really comes on. "Hotter fuel" as you call it (high octane fuels actually burn cooler and slower than normal pump gas) will not change this. That being said, you might require higher octane if you make the necessary changes to get some low end. Your only hope for better low end would be higher compression and/or more timing advance. The, other, and possibly most important factor, in 2 stroke power delivery is the pipe. What pipes are you running? I run 18cc domes and 3+ timing advance on a motor that is ported but the port timing is not changed. I run 36mm Lectron carbs (huge for my motor/porting setup), and yet my power curve is very smooth with tons of low end. I absolutely despise riding bikes with most engine builders' port work. They always modify the port timing and raise the exhaust port for maximum horsepower gain. In doing so, they frequently ruin the ride-ability of the motor. The number a dyno puts out means nothing if you just like to ride. The way in the which the power is delivered throughout the RPM range is what is important. If you bump the compression and timing and find the motor still doesn't satisfy your low RPM desires then you might consider dumping your ported cylinders and going back to a set of stock cylinders or possibly getting a set ported that would be more suitable to your riding style.

Save your money for a nice set of aftermarket Shee arms from Lone Star, Laeger, or if feel really lavish, go Roll Design. There could be no good suspension benefit over going with a set of aftermarket 2+1 arms that are built for the Banshee front end geometry. Would you put Jeep tires on a Ferrari?

I thought the reason they used the Nikasil lining was because they used a different sleeve material that you couldn't just bore/hone and run un-plated. I would consult a shop that has some experience if it were me. Most of my friends with dirt bikes have run into that issue, and ended up either re-sleeving to accommodate a normal setup, or spending the money to have them bored then re-lined with Nikasil.

I have ridden both Works fully adjustable and Elka Dune Editions, and I like Works much better in the sand. As for PeP or Axis, that might be a bit much as well since they are really intended for MX more than anything. Choice is yours really. I also recommend getting a rear shock to compliment the fronts. The stocker is okay, but a better rear will really help reduce rear end swapping and provide better adjustments.

Find the leak with the soapy water, if it turns out to be the bead, break them down and clean them. DO NOT USE THAT SLIME, it is absolute fu**ing crap!

The stator is probably fine. I would pull the stator cover and make sure that is is dry and clean inside, and then start following the wiring harness searching for a burned wire. Popping is most usually caused by an electrical issue.