Banchetta

Oh ya, nice avatar....

I will!! I will!!! I will!!!!

I've got just powdercoated and so far they haven't started peeling yet. I've only had them about 4 months though.....

Is it just one side?? If not, then it has nothing to do w/a leak. Whats the chance of both sides leaking when the domes are bolted on separately and have the same compression......If you had 150 in both cylinders after rebuild, then you should have more. What are you running for oil and at what ratio?? Are both sides the same for compression?? Exactly??

I was never crazy about buying shizzel on the computer, you never know if they are tweeked or not. I have a set from quicksand and love them. They are fully adjustable camber and castor for the same price most others are w/o the adjustability. I've never tried the others, but I like the workmanship, guarantee, and durabilitly of mine. I rolled my shee down a 80' packed loam hill @80 degree vertical incline w/ 3 jumps on it. Didn't bend the arms one bit.... I put my shizzel to the true test.....

I didn't have to on mine, but it depends on how much you've been restricting it to. The air box is restrictive to the midrange pipes and even more on the high revs. My answer is tune it in w/ the stock pilots and get the best jetting you can, then try the next step up. It'll either gain or get worse. A richer pilot will start better, but could hurt or help the throttle response. Trial and error Brian. Let us know how you make out.

I rode a shee w/ T5's and it didn't have much for low end at all, so I don't expect the T6 to have much either. Maybe more than the T5, but not enough compared to midrange pipes.

Adjust the springs to ride height. You want the front to have about 1-1.5" of sag and the rear to have about 2-2.5" of sag. Pull the wheelie bar up and measure the height off the ground. Now sit on it and have someone remeasure. That is your sag height. Adjust the compression knob on the rear shock according to what kind of ride you want. Soft or stiff. Next adjust the rebound on the bottom of the shock to control how fast the suspension comes back up. If it bucks you after a jump, then its too fast, adjust it slower. I adjust mine going over whoops. Too fast rebound will buck you all the time on a single bump. Too slow will be great on a single bump, but will pack up on multiple bumps and will kick the ass end side to side after a series of bumps. (5-6)

I'd start w/ a 180 main and 55 pilot and go from there. Do a plug check at wot in 6th gear for 5-10 seconds and adjust the mains to that. Adjust the air screws and see where they like to be. Adjust the pilots according to that....

Thats why I said to check the compression so you know whats going on inside the motor. If that checks out then check your reeds.

Your inbox is full.. I can't pm you.

Get the Pt mids, they have the most low end twin pipe out there. You'll still gain a lot over stock on top and bottom. They are great all around pipes. The fmf sst's are pretty nice also. I'd choose between these two.

I was talking about the comment you made about cutting 2 coils off to get a full 9"... you lost me on that part....Also, I believe a stiffer compression gives more traction, thats why draggers take the shocks out, besides to lower the machine. Did a nice job on the suspension adjusting though. :wink:

It'll cause an air leak making your machine run lean. It would cause hesitation and high idle. It'll also make the shee run lean at wot which could cause a piston meltdown. You might want to get that screw....

What type of riding do you do and get specific like: I ride about 80% sand pits and do extreme hill climbing, down hill jumping. I ride about 15% trails, mostly in 2nd to 4th gear w/ some 5th and 6th gear. Mostly tight turning trails and some dirt roads. I do about 5% dragracing in 500'.

Check the compression and clean the carbs w/ an air compressor. Make sure you get all the little ports and jets. Especially the main.

I've found the mids pull harder out of the hole and takes the high revs a while to catch up. What do you ride mostly of???? Is it worth working the clutch and fighting w/ the hesitation of low end just to gain that little bit on top for that once in a while drag race or staightaway???? Been there, done that...Its not worth it. Get the mids...Besides, I'm still undefeated exept against a 370 stroker, and I want a rematch w/ my new tires......

If you give me a call Saturday afternoon and let me know what time you'll be here, then I'll meet up w/ you and get you to a motel. You don't need reservations. Tourist season is done for us. I can hook you up w/ some restaraunts, tittie bars, clubs, you name it, we've got it... :mrgreen: If you want the pit directions, then take exit 4 after you go through the Maine tolls, its the Biddeford exit, go through the tolls and take a right at the lights. Drive about 4-5 miles on RT 111 until you get to an intersection w/ lights that intersects w/ RT 35. Take a right onto RT 35 and drive about 4-5 miles and you'll see Dayton sand and gravel pit entrance. There will also be Shaw brothers entrance. You can park on the side of the road and ride in. If you get to the intersection of RT 5 and RT 35 then you've gone to far. If your meeting up w/ me then take the Saco exit, which is exit 5. Go through the tolls and take the first exit. Get to the bottom of the ramp and hang a right. You'll see a park and ride parking lot on the left. I'll meet you there. Pm me if you want my cell number....

The kids good!!!

Really?? The Fat boys can be repacked on the bike. The 1" core slides onto or into another core about an 1" long at the inside of the silencer, then the end cap holds the other end of the core. Pretty simple......

Is there a hole where the screw is supposed to be???

I think you lost me Deuce... Deuce is right about ride height. You want about 2" of sag in the rear and about 1" of sag in the front. Get a friend and measure your shee from the wheelie bar to the ground w/ you pull the weight off the suspension. Now let the shee down and sit on it. Have your buddy measure again. You should only have 2-2.5" of sag. Thats how you adjust the spring tension. Next, if it still bottoms out, then stiffen your compression knob. If the compression knob is all the way stiff and your still bottoming, then send the shock back out to be revalved or resprung like Deuce said......Your rebound has nothing to do w/ bottoming, it only controls how fast your shee comes back up. Too fast and it'll buck you in the ass.

Get a midrange pipe. I like the Pt mids and fmf sst's the best. Other good ones are dmc, fatties, Bills, and fmf gold series.

If the shee is spitting and sputtering then the mains are too large. If its falling on its face like someones hitting the kill switch, then they are too small. If they are too small, then try a 400 and go from there. If you can't get a large enough mains to stop it from leaning out, then you might need larger carbs if your ported.

What do you mean by "choppy"?? Fmf pipes like a richer needle. You might have to lower the needle one notch. Run it wot in 6th gear for 5-10 seconds and shut it down, pull the plugs and see what color your running. Thats how you can dial in the mains...You might have to go up one or two sizes on the mains.