Banchetta

Don't cut the box, cut the lid....300 mains should be good. I'm running 300 mains, 25 pilots, needles 5th clip from the top, air screw 1 turn out....I'm not too far from you...Best way to dial in the mains is to run your shee wide open in 6th gear for 5-10 seconds, shut it down, coast to a stop, pull the plugs....Black is rich, brown is perfect, tan or white is lean....

Left tors?? Meaning the carb top is held by zippy ties?? That could be a potential air leak and allow sand to get into the carb....Could be your victim along w/ the filter flange....

I'm running the same oil w/ a 40:1 ratio...I run it in my sled, but I'm not sure if I like it in my shee....I used to run Castrol at 28:1 and loved that oil the best.....

Glad we can help!!

Rod took the words out of my mouth.....Good explanation Rod!!

Depends on the damage or scars in the cylinders....You might be able to just go another .010 over, but if you have some deep scratches that you can grab w/ a fingernail, then you might have to go another .020 over....Is that all you have is a K&N filter?? What about the filter flange?? Is the the stock white plastic flange or do you have an aluminum flange?? The stock one will allow sand to get by and ruin the rings and cylinders....I'd also rejet even for just the filter...You should be around a 240-250 main jet for 60 degree weather and even higher for colder temps.....Also make sure your water impeller is still good and the coolant is circulating...If you overheat, then you'll cook the top end....

Boony is right on... I let mine idle forever and never overheat or foul plugs...I change my plugs once a year just for the hell of it...I can't understand the rich pilots either...I've tried 27.5 pilots and my shee didn't have as much throttle response, so I went back to stock pilots...Takes 3 half kicks (because of my foot pegs moved back) when cold and one kick when warm to start... BansheeBrian, that is great for Boony, I, and anyone else that has their shee jetted in correctly....Thats all everyone else has to do is take a little time and jet their shee in correctly.....Like Boony said, I have my idle way down so you can hear each side firing through the headers......ping....ping...........ping.....ping..........ping......ping.....I love that sound...I have my own 2-stroke Harley!!!

Sounds like the pilots or needle height....Start there first. Does it start hard or very easy?? W/ choke or w/o...

Does it even idle?? 58 pilots are huge. I was running 50 pilots when I had my 34's.... W/ my 58 pilots, my shee wouldn't idle and constantly had to rev it out to clean it out...W/ those mods, your losing hp. Go back to stock. I lost 8hp from the larger carbs on my shee....you need porting to get the benefits from larger carbs... W/ my 34's and my mods listed below, I was running a 50 pilot, 165 mains. Try adjusting the air screws and see where your shee idles the highest and has better throttle response.. If your shee likes the air screws less then 1 turn out, then try a larger pilot. If your air screws like to be more than 1.5 turns out, then try a smaller pilots.....let us know what you come up w/...

Need a rebuild, should have lasted more than one year though. I'd be looking over everything carefully and find out why....Jetting could be off, bad filter setup, or bad oil.....ratio....

A shee likes to run better on cooler days because of cooler air being more dense and creating more hp..not because the motor is cooler.. RACE FUEL does NOT create more hp....It WILL lose hp on a stock motor....You MIGHT be able to get back the loss of power if you advance the timing, but you still won't get any better then low octane...Boony explained this very well...As far as against a clock, I have tried this w/ my street bike in the 1/4 mile...I was running 10:08 in the 1/4 w/ the 90 octane....Tried 114 octane and could only get a 10:4 in the 1/4 mile......4/10's of a second is about 4 bike lengths!!!! Higher octane is designed to stop detonation for higher compression motors, not to get any more hp from it....the higher octane will burn a lot cleaner and is better for the motor w/ less carbon deposit. If you can afford it and adjust the timing to compensate the timing difference, then go for it...It is a better fuel for reliability and motor life....just no performance gains..

No doubt you need a rebuild. You also might want to find out what caused this...Are you still running the stock air filter and filter flange?? That would be the first problem. Get a K&N w/ flange for $90..Money well spent.. You might be able to clean it up w/ just .010 over..check w/ who your boring the cylinders w/...You won't notice any power gain w/ the boring, but will notice more power w/ the rebuild and higher compression...

If you don't want to run the lid off, then try cutting the last 1.5" off the end of the lid so you still have all four clips...Makes a huge difference and you'll have to go up about 2 sizes on the mains...should notice better throttle response also....As for jetting, I'd try raising the needles and lowering the pilots....I'd go w/ either stock pilots or 27.5 and readjust the air screws to throttle response...I've never seen anyone in my area w/ fmf pipes like the larger pilots....Good luck and let us know how you make out...

You guys are way too hard on the poor guy!!!!.......If you rode it for 2 hours and didn't really open it up, then your probably fine. The main jets only control wide open throttle... Especially if your still running the stock air filter, air box cover on, and snorkel on....Jetting is very crutial and I do agree w/ everyone else. Tell us your air box mods and we can get you close to where you need to be at...But if you don't rejet and run it hard, you WILL cook your top end very fast...

Well if it idles, then most likely you haven't killed the top end YET.....I'd start by disconnecting the parking brake switch by following the wire from the handlebars towards the gas tank and there will be a connector. Disconnect it. Next, look under the left side of the gas tank and you'll see a little black box w/ a 3-wire plug. Disconnect that. This will disable the Tors system completely and is most likely your problem. I'd also check to make sure your choke tube is in place between the carbs (1/4" x 2" long). Once you get all this done, then rejet your shee before you grenade it...you'll also find that it will really rip w/ larger mains. I'd start w/ 300 mains w/ the air box lid off and you'll see some substantial gains along w/ reliability....

1. My -2 swingarm $650 2. Ptr mids $525 3. Head mods $0 4. 2+2 Quicksand arms and works front shocks $1000 5. +4 timing $120 6. boysen petals $30 Number 1 being my best mod and most difference then so on...

Agreed....they have great deals and never screwed me over the last 16 years.... Boony is right on....Pipe choice is crutial and most important mod to choose...Every pipe has its place. I'd never go back to a high rev pipe after running a midrange pipe w/ my type of riding....You should choose a pipe that suits your needs.....Toomeys would be my last choice for trails and sand pits....

Save your money... I have PTR mids, head mods w/ 165psi, boysen petals, +4 timing, and polished cylinders. I tried 34mm PJ's and lost 8hp and also tried bored stock carbs and lost 2hp across the whole curve.....From what I've seen, I'd like to try a 2 into one setup.....BTW, I also tried the ported stock carbs and ported reed cages and still no gain....Let me know if you try a 2 into 1 setup, I'm very curious...

I agree w/ Boony, the stock flange will allow sand to get by...get the aluminum aftermarket flange or silicon the stock one in and bolt it to the air box....W/ the lid off, I'd start w/ a 300 main jet and do a wot test in 6th gear and check your plugs....

I was going to say that either your throttle was stuck open or you had an air leak...A lean pilot will not make your shee rev out of control....One of the ways to dial in the air screws and pilots is to find the highest idle you can get from adjustments and turn the idle back down w/ the idle knob...

I like the razor and the shredders for all around tires.... I ride trails and sand pits...

When its cold your using the choke and one carb gets more fuel then the other when the choke is on....

banch draw a pic of your bike with a killer port job maybe even stroked budget allowing, your just not going to be happy till you do.....at dumont you go ride my bike for a while, since we have similar chassis, youll marvel at what 30hp coming off idle feels like, just your kinda motor all grunt You trust me to ride your shee........hehehehehe,,,ok...... I might just say hell w/ it and just port my spare cylinders and try it out....I've got too many toys to modify right now...Sled season is kicking in... Anyone looking for a streetbike??? I have one for sale. 2001 Suzuki GSXR750 all chromed out....need money for modding other toys....

290 mains, stock pilots, raise the needles to either 4th or 5th slot from the blunt end....adjust air screws to throttle respone...I have a fireball swingarm, but I can't find them anymore.... they did a hell of a job making my swingarm. It has oval tubing instead of round or square....You can do a conversion on the stock swingarm and weld a round carrier to the stocker. Or give Gary a call at Quicksand fabs....He's cool shit and does some nice work...

I buy my pilots and mains from them. They never messed up any order of mine in over 10 years....