Banchetta

Roughly 5mph and I'm not sure if the stock pipes could pull it, so you might not gain anything...the stock pipes lose hp after 6500rpms which is why they take so long to get up to speed. Get a set of pipes and you'll gain 10mph on top speed and get there faster even w/ midrange pipes....the stock pipes are that bad....

I'm guessing your doing asphault racing??? If the motor can pull it, the 17 in the front should get you around 95mph w/ 20" tires. 22" tires will get you around 100mph w/ a 17 front sprocket...You'll need some decent mods to be able to pull it though....You'll need some serious mods if you plan on running this gearing on dirt...and even more if your running on sand w/ sand tires....

I'd start w/ the 340's and go from there. Better to be safe then sorry. Its almost impossible to get the jetting right the first shot anyway....That would be a good starting point..

Lower the needle and that should clear up the sputtering...Does it idle good?? You can't compare top end if its not even jetted in...A few sizes on the mains can make substantial differences....A good way to tell if the clutch is slipping is run it against a car. you should be able to hit 85mph w/ a 15 tooth front sprocket and 20" tires....When my clutch was slipping, I only got 72mph...

Intox: You "bottomed out" both sides and raised both sides 1 full turn right??? Make sure you have slack in the cable by your handlebars to. You might have too much tension on the cable and the slides aren't bottoming out...

I'd suggest a brown color. Tan is still kinda lean. I've seen some shees have to go up 3-4 sizes on the mains just to get the brown color, then one more size and it'll be black....That fine line is what you want....for max performance and for reliability..

No, its a rubber tube that goes between the center of the carbs...The tube your talking about is where the boost bottle goes on top of the reeds right???

Don't go by looks. I had a set of fmf golds that came off my parts shee. They were spotted w/ rust and the silencers were rusted like those Trinity. I sold them to a friend and jetted in his shee. Its one of the fastest just piped shee I've raced....I'd get them and try them out. If you get them cheap and don't like them, then you can always get your money back. Especially after you clean them up...

Banshee370: Sounds good to me...We don't have axe murderers in Maine, the woman are too willing!!!! I'm sure we can hook up something. My friend Danny wants to go and buy a shee over there all chromed out. He's the one that was w/ us that night...I don't know if anyone else is going. I'll talk to a few others. If there is a bunch of us, then we'll get our own MB. We'll play it by ear and see how it goes. Whos trailering your wheeler if your flying??

Anyone going this weekend after T-day?? Its supposed to be mid 40's and sunny....Supposed to rain Friday and sat morning , then sunny Sunday and rain, sleet, and snow for Monday...Only nice day to ride....

Agreed....

Sounds like the equalizer tube between the carbs isn't on....You might have pulled the carbs out w/o realizing you pulled the tube off....its about 1/4" x 2" long....

Start w/ 320 mains, needle in the 3rd or 4th clip from the top,(try both and decide), stock or 27.5 pilots depending on your shee and temperature....fine tune the pilots w/ the air screws....the pilots will affect the throttle response, so figure out which one works best for you. We get A LOT of different jetting w/ toomey pipes. Most others are fairly close....Trial and error... let us know what you come up w/. Any other help, just yell!!

Agreed, you HAVE to learn to rejet whenever you change the air flow of the motor, if not you'll be rebuilding it......Do a lot of reading on this page. You'll learn more than you think....it'll also help you understand your shee a lot more....

Agreed, my pipes don't even come close to my airbox, thats why I like them so much, no melting...maybe your frame is tweeked?? or used pipes off a tweeked frame?? Mine were no louder than any other pipe. They are now since I used a real dense packing, but when I got them, they were the same db as any other pipe and has a nice ping at an idle...

Pull choke out fully, no gas, and kick until it starts....Giving it gas will defeat the purpose of the choke..

I've dynoed mine at peak hp was at +4 and +5. So I just run mine at +4...I run 93 octane w/ 165psi compression...

Those holes are for air..One goes to the air screw..Idling high means your shee likes the mixture better...You want a better mixture and higher rev from the mixture, then turn the idle knobs down to compensate...I usually take a flashlight and look into the intake. Turn the idle knobs so the slides drop all the way down and barely "bottom out" then turn the idle knob one full turn back up. Do this to both sides and you'll be synced. The idle should be very close also, and within 1/4 turn on the idle knobs....I still think the larger pilots aren't helping and I'd drop to the stock pilots or 27.5 and go from there.....but I could be wrong also... only a suggestion..

My mids were the best fitting pipe I've ever had...The silencers are shaped around the air box and uses all 3 bolt holes from the stock exhaust where most aftermarket pipes only use 2...I was impressed w/ my exhaust. I can't see the high revs being much different, but I"m thinking about ordering a set of headers for some duning and possibly dragging....

P400, whats happening. I was pretty impressed w/ your 400 also...Goes pretty decent now..we had some killer cliffs last weekend. You would have liked those. Same hill that we were hitting last week, but they redug it...Anyways, will you be out there this weekend?? Tell Jon, I'll have something for him next spring... Jimmy, to bad you won't make it. Definately don't rush it, Dayton will always be there... We'll definately hook up this winter...I've already been ordering parts for my sled...not much, just a few goodies.....

Air screw?? Just adjust it to YOUR shee and how it likes it...You should notice a difference in throttle response..make sure your air cleaner is clean and run a good oil. Shitty oils will foul plugs...Stock exhaust will tend to foul them easier for some reason also....

I think there is a few people coming up this weekend... maybe Jimmy(chase 73) will be up w/ his new motor..99nhbanshee will most likely be there, and of course a shit load of locals....the pit has changed a lot this summer. Wardens have been patroling every so often, so be aware. I guess even out of staters need to register in maine now. Just passed a new law.....Cost 70 bucks...

Sounds like an air leak....Is there a gasket on the carb tops around the spring?? An erratic idle and high rev means there is some kind of air leak....I'm trying to wonder if boring the carbs messed something up or maybe the slides don't close up enough.....maybe metal filings jammed in the passageway...I don't think its a fuel problem, but an air leak....High revs is not caused by leanness, but by the motor getting more air to rev up....remember, the motor is an air pump, the carbs cutting off the air is what idles the motor, open the slides and it'll rev....an air leak will make it rev allowing the motor more air......you have an air leak somewhere...make sure your slides are in the right carbs....cutaway facing the intake..

I"ve always used the idle knobs and never had a problem....they both do the same thing. Tighten and loosen the cable..I adjust the idle knobs until the slides bottom out, then turn them 1 full turn back up and the idle is usually pretty close...You can't measure the slides. Thats why I "bottom" them out , to get a base start, then turn up one full turn....You'll need a flashlight and look inside the intake through the air cleaner....

Save me a spot, I'm going....... I have paddles already....I'm just planning on going. I know if I don't, I might not ever go....make sure there is room on that trailer though...I wouldn't want to get my hopes up for nothin.... I'll see if any of my other friends would like to go....they have shees also....