Banchetta

Razors, shredders, holeshots, turfs are all great all around tires....I love the razors the best and just bought shredders, so far they are a pretty great tire and I think they hook up just as good as razors if not better, but its hard to tell when you go from a half bald razor to the new shredder.......the hook up is a lot better, but they are new....I can't relate to the wear, but both seem great..

Sounds like an awesome idea.....set me up w/ a room....

I'll be testing my stockers, 28's tapered to 30, and 33's on my new motor..It's a 4 mil stroker w/ my mods below.....the 26 stock carb are the best for unported, I'll let you know in a few weeks on the other carbs on the new setup....I'll be posting my results for others....

go to their website, they'll call you to verify the order....

Easy guys,,I'm the only one in my area to run 300 mains, I had pc pipes and wouldn't even run w/ 280 mains, had to run 270's...I'm at sea level, but I think area has a lot to do w/ it......Anyways, the mains ONLY control wide open throttle...the low end hesitation is caused from being lean on either the pilot or needle or even both....you said you raised the needle clip....did you raise the clip or the needle by lowering the clip??? If you lower the clip towards the tapered end, then your raising the needle which should take some of that hesitation out....If you went the wrong way, then you'll probably not see any difference...If you did raise the needle and no changes, then have you tried adjusting the air screws?? I'd also get some 27.5 pilots and try them, then readjust the air screws....the sst's have great low end....your jetted is off somewhere. Let us know how you make out and what changes your making...Do one at a time...

Ptr's are the best, the sst's are awesome to, but also pricey.....I'd go w/ the gnarlies if you want the absolute most bottom end.. the top end will still be way better than stock...Get the gnarlies, another great pipe for good bottom end and great top end is Bill's pipes...they say they are top end, but the one that I rode had great bottom end and pulled nice on top....A really great midrange pipe for the price....just an idea for ya if price is a concern...

A lean needle will make it hesitate before powerband and a rich needle won't even kick into powerband, it'll just spit and sputter....I'd just try moving the clip one way and try it...It'll either be noticeable better or noticeably worse, if it gets better then try another clip the same way. If it gets worse then go the other way and try that...Find the sweet spot...some pipes makes HUGE differences in performance on the needle position...You have to pull the slides out and hold the spring back on the slides, you'll see a little gold clip inside the top of the slide, shake the slide up-side-down and the clip will fall out, disconnect the cable and the slide will come off...look into the top of the slide and you'll see 2 screws, take them out and shave the slide, the needle will fall out.....lower the needle by raising the clip towards the blunt end....richen the needle by lowering the clip towards the tapered end...let us know how you make out

Ya I here ya. Looks like I will no longer need those instructions anymore once I get it ported. While were on that topic.... What jets should I start w/ once I get it all put back together? Im doing the Race Logic porting. My current mods are: K&N (no snorkle) T5's Cool Head (22cc domes) V-Force Reeds (not installed yet) About to do +4 on the timing (not installed yet either) I think thats it. Any help would be great! I would start w/ a 350 main, 27.5-30 pilot, and go from there...

What color is the smoke?? What does the smoke smell like??

This might help you out. If the shee is revving uncontrollable w/o the tors, then you have an air leak, or stuck slides....your shee should run w/o the tors...the tors is designed to stop a stuck open throttle and kills the ignition some when it detects and stuck throttle.....so if the shee revs w/o the tors, then find the stuck throttle or air leak...remember, then motor is an air pump, it can't rev, unless its getting air......hope this helps...

I want one of those T's for sure... I be arriving sometime in the morning or afternoon of the 3rd, I'll be driving a pewter colored Chevy long bed, regular cab, duramax diesel w/ a 20' trailer....

I'd try a 45 and 48 and adjust the air screws to the highest idle and throttle response, then adjust the idle knob to idle back down....

doesn't sound right....I had a zilla yearrrrrsss ago....check the reeds, they are notorious for broken petals and flood out....If you haven't touched any jetting and just took apart the carbs, then jettin wouldn't be the problem....

Lid w/ holes is vague and could affect jetting by 2-3 sizes....Cut the last 1.5" off the end of the lid or get a K&N w/ adaptor plate and remove the lid, then jet it at 300-310 to start and do a plug test...Needle in the stock middle clip to start, stock needles and adjust air screws to throttle response and highest idle....

Your spring may be too loose. Get off the shee and pull the wheelie bar up until the suspension stops, measure the distance between the ground and wheelie bar, now get on it in normal riding position and have a friend remeasure....It should only squat 2-2.5"...If it squats more, then tighten the spring....If it still bottoms easily ALL the time, then turn the compression knob on the res to the "H" for hard....as far as the rebound, I can't remember, the best way is to turn it all the way to one side and push really fast on the wheelie bar, it'll either rebound like a spring or like a cushion of a couch..then you'll know... W/ my +2 arms from quicksands, and ITP rolled egde rims (which I think are stock offset) I have 46.75" wide in the front...

The ptr mids has the MOST low end from any twin pipe out there....I've tried almost all but a couple of pipes on the market for the shee...The TR6 is far from a midrange pipe...Toomey claims to have more midrange from the T6 compared to the T5, but do not call it a midrange pipe....I would call about 5 other pipes or more a midrange before the toomey...

Just about any pipe out there will give you way more top end power and speed over stock...the stock are that bad....for your type of riding, I'd get either Ptr mids, fmf sst's, dmc, bills, in that order from most midrange and low end to midrange...you wouldn't regret any of them and would gain top end as well as more low end and midrange...the top end pipes are only better for long running areas, you won't gain anything in trails over midrange pipes....

Like red said, those mods will emphasize what you have now...Keep them....

You checked the plugs after running it wide open??? If not, then your getting false readings...normal riding won't tell your anything. You have to run it wide open in 6th gear for 5-10 seconds, shut it down, pull the plugs....anything else isn't right...If your getting light brown w/ normal riding, then I'd go up a couple of sizes before running it wide open....normal riding usually runs richer...the erractic idling is caused by either the wrong slides in the carbs (right and left swapped) or your jetting is way off from wide open throttle to idle circuit....start w/ the mains and go from there...then adjust the air screws to the highest idle or best throttle response... also make sure your carbs are in synced...

If the air screws like to be all the way out, then your pilots are way too big...they must have a number...pull them out and order 1-2 sizes smaller...then readjust the air screws and go from there....

IF, and I stress IF your motor can pump enough air for larger carbs, then you can benefit, like others have said, the 26mm can only allow so much air through the carb at a certain speed or "velocity"...Too much velocity will restrict cfm or amount of air going through at a given second or minute..A larger carb will allow more air w/ less velocity or "speed" which causes restriction....BUT....a carburator requires so much velocity to properly work and be efficient since the velocity is what pull the fuel out from the bottom of the carb and into the motor.....So not enough velocity will hurt efficienty and lose hp, throttle response and low end....so there is a fine line to how large of a carb you can go before going the other way.....Kinda like jetting, too lean or too rich and you'll lose hp......exept carbs are more expensive...

Its not that the jetting goes lower w/ larger carbs...Its just that keihin carbs have a different jet sizes.....

Holyman, just read this for the first time....I believe I still have 2, can I send you both and you can keep one for your troubles?? I'll be leaving for Dumont in 27 days though, so I'll need some decent turn around time. Either that or I'll send one now and the other later so I won't press you w/ any time limit....Thanks

You have to slow down the rebound. Right now your rear shock is like a spring board, after it compresses, its springing up too fast. You can slow it down w/ the dial on the bottom of the shock where the bolt goes through....It has 18 clicks...Too fast and you know what happens on any bump....make it too slow and it'll ride great over the first 2-4 bumps then start bucking from the suspension "packing up" which mean, after each bump, the suspension moves up, but doesn't come down fast enough for the next bump, so the suspension keeps losing more and more travel after each bump....I agree, go through the whoops over and over again, while adjusting the rebound setting....this is the best place to adjust it.....depending on the size of whoops, I usually lean all the way back and pin it!

Does it smoke evenly?? Air screws at the same setting? I'm not sure how a feeler guage would work in a carb w/ a round bottom, I'd think it wouldn't be accurate enough, but I've never tried that so I won't say, but I usually just bottom the slide out until it barely touches, then turn them up 1 full turn.......If they are in sync, then I'd do a leakdown test to find any air leaks, could blow a motor is you have an air leak...