Banchetta

Dave let me try a head for testing and I'm really impressed w/ his work and craftmanship.....He's easy to get a hold of and very helpful. Everything fit perfect and the instructions make it a no brainer.....Dlnoss...hands down..

2 things.....First disconnect the tors like bansha60 already suggested. Those are common to fail and mess w/ you spark. Takes 30 secondes to disconnect it...Little black box above the left exhaust....It has 3-wire plug, box is about 1.5" long...Next disconnect the parking brake switch by following the wire towards the gas tank to a connector, disconnect that..... If this doesn't solve it, then check the stator. Can't remember the ohm readings, but call Ricky stator, he'll tell you or someone will chime in.....I think its the tors though..

Little black box above the left exhaust w/ a 3-wire plug, disconnect that and the parking brake switch.....The tors removal kit is just carb tops,,,doesn't really have anything to do w/ the tors to tell you the truth.....

Cast pistons will heat up and expand at the same rate as you cylinders giving you better piston and ring life. Forge pistons heat up faster than the cylinders, so slow warm ups are a must. Forged pistons are supposed to be stronger. Some piston kits will give more hp due to wrist pin located lower on the piston causing the piston to move up higher making more compression which in turn makes more hp...Also changes port timing a little for higher revs, less low end.....

Are you holding the post from turning w/ a philips screwdriver and tightening the nut w/ a wrench in the opposite directions??? I've never had one loosen up, your doing something wrong, Its impossible for a nut to loosen after its tightened against itself....You just can't tighten the nut, you have to hold the post from turning and tighten the nut against the post....

If one slide is halfway up, then most likely your cable isn't all the way in the top of the carb or it got pulled out of the junction box where the cable goes from 2 to 1....Check your cable, thats where your problem will be, your adjustments won't be that far off....

I know my keihin carbs would do like you mentioned. my idle was to low...raise the idle adjustment, it might solve your problem and not cost a dime...

If he had stock head, then I'd say no problem, but its shaved .030 which should put him around 160psi...So I'd say that your definately ready for a topend...I'd stick w/ cast pistons like stock or Niks pro-x pistons.....A lot of others will say go for the forged....Everyone has there own oppinions on pistons...choose your weapon....

A blown crankseal will make it hard to start, but the twin usually will still start...That'd be the last thing I'd do since its the hardest thing to fix.....

not sure about the ss pistons, but I'd try your jetting now and go from there. YOur shee will tell you..

Anyone ever try a stock clutch w/o the rubber. and keep the stock springs.....????

I would do a leakdown test....If you have an air leak in the lower end, you might not notice, but would make a huge difference in performance and heat....Have you tried swapping the probes to see if it isn't the probe....

What kind of mods do you have?

Are you measuring right where the exhaust exits the cylinders? Probe against the pipe? away from the pipe?

If your talking about the carbon buildup on the pistons, then its normal....Use high octane fuel and you won't get that....other than that. I can't see the pics..

If you weren't so fuckin lazy and just do a search, we wouldn't have to post this same damn answer every fuckin week......

That is exactly my point, someones blowing donuts in the road and what did anyone do about it???? If I would have saw that, I would have stopped it right there and then....

Put 270 mains in there to start if you have stock air filter and cover on...If the cover is removed and running a K&N then put some 290 mains in there to start and go from there...A lean motor will run extremely hot and can melt the tops of the pistons....Let us know your symptoms after...If it starts hard, then you might want to try some 27.5 or 30 pilots in there....ONce you get the mains and pilots adjusted, try different needle positions...This will affect lower rpms coming into the powerband....

Check your compression, if that reads the same on both sides, then I'd be looking for an air leak....Do a leak down test...6lbs for 6 seconds.

Razors or shredders for anything...or anything of that style will work just as well..

Oh ya, ebay has 2 intakes on there right now......

Cannondale or 450R Honda.....

Really??.....you got me there then...I never dealt w/ jetting that low. Even my stock sizes were 220's.....Goes to show you, you learn something every day...

I like my strap to be chocalate brown. Porcelain can vary more just from different oils, needle positions..

We had over half a dozen 250's last weekend...took all of them easily...Just need to get that power to the ground....Put a -2 swingarm on there...