Banchetta

Try a 380 main and go from there......you might also want to check for leaks..

Check your oil level and antifreeze level. You might have a blown gasket or seal and could be drawing other fluids in ......What does the smoke smell like?

shaving the head, timing at +4, and lightened flywheel will help that a lot, along w/ jetting....Jetting is mostly the cause of this, but your on the right track. If the high rev isn't enough, then get some mids...They pull hard as hell from 0 throttle all the way up....

I ride mine easily for 5 minutes before I open it up. ONe of the reasons why I like the cast pistons better than forged. The cast pistons heat up at the same rate as the cylinders where the forged heat up faster. There is a good chance you had forged pistons in there like Wiesco..

I'll be there till the end!!! If you need some help jetting, don't be hesitant to ask, I don't mind.....

Put the stock pilots back in ......try that.

Noss head and v-force reeds.....

Its when you ride the piss out of it before its warmed up..The piston expands faster then the cylinder causing tight clearences and scoring the 4 corners of the cylinders and breaking rings.....a lot like what yours looks like... I've also seen lean oil mixtures do the same, but worse.....

Chase 73 was looking for some...

I'd start w/ 170 mains (maybe rich), needle 3rd clip, and 45 pilot...

I've only dealt w/ testing stock crank/stock port and also testing the 4mil stroker w/ low end porting...I've never tested a stock crank w/ porting so I can't answer you there.....Jim would have a better idea than me on that.....I do know that stock porting hates larger carbs, the 4mil stroker gets larger hp and torque # w/ larger carbs across the whole curve......thats w/ low end porting!!!!

How much for the pipes?

Lack of power where??? bottom end or top??

DR knows their shit and has the greatest tech line....But you pay for it to. They are very expensive, if you have the money, go for it......To find that leak, just spray soap water on any gasket to find the leak, bubbles will appear during the pressure test...if you can't find any, then its either the crank seal by the stator plate or the crank seal on the clutch side. The stator side can be sprayed to see if it leaks, the other side is a little harder...

Then go..... You want to try my quad now.....

Stroker motors usually run leaner on the needles than stock cranks. SEt the clip at the 1st or 2nd clip from the blunt end...One clip position makes a HUGE difference...DON'T lower the main jet, I almost melted a piston on trials w/ a 300 main....ended up w/ a 380 main.....You have to also go w/ larger intakes, v-force or pyramids, along w/ larger carbs....HUGE GAINS!!!! 9hp on the dyno. The stroker isn't much w/o the other intake mods.....

Looks like you had either a cold siezure or a lack of oil w/ the gas....I'd guess a cold siezure...

True that, the stroker doesn't stop at $550..You have to get larger carbs, different intakes, and reed cages to match...W/o the intake changes the stroker can't get no where near its potential.....not even half....so now your looking at $1500 w/o porting....

Are you shitting me!!!! I drove 57 hours to California w/ a rebuilt motor not even broken in.....I'm sure if someone breaks down, others will help out and keep you runnin....Besides, walter (mr. parts store) will be there.... Pack your shit, your going, no excuses.....

Pt high revs....they build a pipe that puts power to the ground and not just the most hp....sometimes its not how much you have, but where its at.......I thought my Pt mids would hold me back, but when I went to Dumont, I was impressed w/ them. STill wouldn't give them up......Pt designs a great pipe w/ lots of torque where the banshee needs it the most....I've tried a lot of pipes and have to give them credit...If your not dragging, then go for them...

I'd start out w/ 260 mains and go from there...

new plugs?

Unless you have an exact ration like 3:1 or 4:1, the same sprocket tooth will take several rotations of the chain to hit the same spot on the sprocket so I don't buy that....I think there is just more strain and hp being driven on 15 vs 16 teeth...think about it...only 2/3-3/4 of the sprocket is grabbing teeth at once....so if you have 15 teeth and only 2/3 of them are pulling the chain, then you have 10 teeth doing all the pulling....if you have more teeth, then you have less strain on the chain and sprockets in such a small section of the chain and sprockets..IN theory, the larger gears will have less strain and possibly yeild more hp due to less chain kinking around the front sprocket....not sure if it counter weighs the extra weight, but from what I've seen, the larger sprockets are better...

I jetted in my friends shee w/ T5's and couldn't believe it liked the 350 mains in CA.......Read the plugs, that'll tell all, we can only get you close, you still have to fine tune it yourself....

What does Walter know about paint........