If you change filters and run without the lid, you better go up more than 1 jet size on the mains.
Tell us what else you have... pipes etc.
What elevation are you at?
Toomey doesn't have a clue. When I had an airbox and no lid, similar to their holes in the box, I was running 310 mains.
I wouldn't listen to their instructions.
I run 50/50 race mix with my 20cc domes. Might be a little overkill, but it doesn't hurt.
Are you running with a airbox lid? If you are not, 310 mains might be a little lean for that elevation and being ported.
It will only eat bearings if it gets in where it shouldn't be. If you have everything sealed, you will be fine.
Eat chains... nope. Been doing the dunes hard for 4 years, only on my 2nd chain.
Buddy, you are WAYYYYYY lean with clamp on air filters and 280 mains. Unless you are like at 7000' elevation.
What is your elevation?
I would be at least at 320 mains at any sort of elevation.
I run 370 mains in my bike with a 2:1 Toomey air filter.
Don't listen to Toomeys instructions, they are whacked.
What is your jetting?
Are you sure your floats aren't stuck open and your gas is flowing out the overflow tubes?
I run 370 mains and can burn through 3 gallons in about 2 1/2 hours riding at the dunes.
I would do a 30 pilot, air screws at about 1.5 turns out, clip on 4th position from blunt end and 370 mains.
Only change one thing at a time to see what it does.
You are lean on everything in my opinion. Especially with a port job.
I would go to 30 pilots and go up to around a 330 main to start and see how it does.
Last space from the blunt end is not right, even with stock needles.
I would run Toomey needles and put them in the 4th position from the top of the needle.
Oh that has to hurt.
When I went from a Pro Design Foam filter with air box lid to the Toomey 2:1, I went from 280 mains up to 370 mains and the bike runs perfect.
I lost mine at the dunes last season.
I took the carbs off and apart, cleaned them realy good.
Took off my reed cages and exhaust.
I could see the backs and fronts of the pistons and they looked good.
I took my head off and everything looked good.
I could not see any sand past the carbs.
Put everything back together and it runs great.
Got lucky.
I don't spray a whole lot of oil on mine, but I also run a panty hose and an outerware. My filter is never dirty when I clean it, all of the and is caught in the outerware and panty hose.
Do not use non O-ring. They wear too fast.
I replaced only my front sprocket when I went with a DID X ring chain. 2nd dune season and it is wearing very good.
Spend the money for a good chain, it will pay off in the long run.
Was it a brand new seal and did you put it in flush?
I mean did you use a socket and tap the socket to seat the seal?
If the seal isn't all the way it, it will leak.
If you did eveything ok, it probably is a bad shift shaft.
Mine was leaking and I put in a new seal and now it is dry.
His starter bike was a Polaris 50. He rides that very well, so it is time to move up to a 90.
The Kasea didn't impress me, I looked at one over lunch.
Think I will go with the Eton.
It will allow dirt and stuff to get into your stator/flywheel area.
As stated above, it is there because when is motor was used in a different application, there was an electrical feedthrough that went through that hole.
I would plug it somehow.
I know it is the main.
No, not in all gears. In the other gears, if you are borderline rich, it will rap out before you hold it. In 6th, you have no more gears, so you are trying to hold it for long periods of time.