lincster

I don't but my bro does. He is ranked 2nd in the Nation right now for Super Heavy Weights in Powerlifting. His wife is ranked also I think. She was on the Olympic Team a few years ago. Pretty impressive.

Where is the best place to get a battery for my kids 50? Rocky mountain has them for $40. Anybody know anyplace cheaper? I thought I had seen them for like $20. Thanks

See my tip in the Tips & Tricks forum to see a way not to burn holes in your outerware.

How about a GPS??? Especially at night. We always have one in our group. They are not that expensive.

Choke tube..... hope you didn't lose it when you took it apart.

Troy, On the cool head, the domes can only fit in one way. So as the domes fit on the bike, the number is stamped on the front portion of the dome, facing the front of the bike. You know how the dome looks like a stacked bee hive? The number is on the bottom, biggest ring facing the front of the bike. Linc

www.ronnies.com has great microfiche on his site. Shows exact parts and part numbers you need to order.

Troy, You have to do both cylinders, you can't just do one. You would destroy your crank since one cylinder would be putting out more power than the other. Piston selection, man you will get lots of opinions. I would go with Weisco. There is one type that if you go with you have to let warm up a long time before you run it. Can't remember the type though.

Yes, with a cool head, it doesn't have gaskets, just the orings. Too bad you aren't closer, buddy down the street works for Ohton racing and would set you up for a good price.

Sorry to say it dude, but you now need a new top end. You will need new pistons, rings and to bore or hone the cylinders, depends on how deep the gouges are in the cylinders. You can sure tear it down yourself, but you will need a shop to bore/hone the cylinders. If this has been done before, you need to find out how far over stock bore the bike has been taken. So, you can at least start taking the carbs and reeds out. If you want, you can take the cylinders off, depends on how comfortable you are with doing this. It is not hard, Clymers gives good instructions on how to do it. Parts you will need to put it back together: Pistons Rings Cylinder Base Gaskets Reed Block Gaskets Cool Head Orings Check all of your hoses, this is a good time to replace. This is a good start. Let me know if you decide to do it yourself, it is actually pretty easy and it is nice to know you did the work yourself. Later Linc

Man (some of) you guys are cranking on me like I did something bad here. I just posted something that works for me that might be able to help others. This is the Tips & Tricks Forum. If you don't like it, don't do it, but also don't reply.

1. Yes, it is trying to ignite the coolant as well as the fuel/oil mixture. At idle, or carbs closed, there is not enought fuel to overcome the coolant. 2. I just use like 10W40 or something I have around just to hold the orings in place will I have the body and top upside down. If you can get away without using anything, don't. But some of the orings will have to have something to hold them onto the cool head. It may take a couple of times. Be patient. 3. Nope, don't use any loctite or anything. And use a in/lb torque wrench. If you use a ft/lb wrench, you don't get the resolution. Just take the figures in the book, in ft/lb, and multiply by 12 to get in/lb. I do it in 3 increments. Good luck brotha. I'll check back tonite to see if you have any questions while you are working on it. We are planning New Years weekend, hopefully you can have your stuff back together by then. Will be going to Buttercup.

Troy, You are going to have to drain the coolant obviously. Remove the hose running into the clutch cover, and then remove the 2 bolts on the sides of the cylinders, little ones. Then you won't have as much of a mess when you pull the head. Remove the nuts in the same sequence as the go on, the diagram is in the Clymers. Pull off the top cover, remove the main body and then the domes will come out. Yes, there is a number stamped onto the domes telling you what size you have. Take off the gas tank first, this will help alot. You will be able to see if the cylinders are messed up, it will be obvious. As far as the white smoke, that is a classic coolant burning tell tale. I have seen it in cars before when they have had blown headgaskets. Coolant is getting into the cylinders, as well as air, hence your loss in compression. Usually, if you are burning tranny oil, it is not white. I am not at work this week, so you will understand if you send me an email and I don't reply. Let me know how it goes. Linc

I never have either, but some have. Also, I don't have to worry about rotating mine, just get it close and who cares.

Troy!!! Oh man, that does suck. Sorry to hear that dude. It could just be due to the bad head o rings. You will get a false reading if the head is not sealing. No matter what, you are gonna have to pull the head to replace the o ring. Once you get the head off, look for any scoring. You will be able to tell if your cylinder is bad. Let me know. Later, Linc Oh yeah, I learned the hard way, replace all of the o rings together. I did what you did, only replace a couple, then I had some of the others start to leak. Buy another kit and replace them all once you get it back together.

Hey guys, here is what I did so I don't burn my outerwares and I don't have to worry about my filter being centered perfect. See the hose I ran on my stinger tubes? It is high temp Silicon hose. Works pretty good.

Must be nice to have money! Yes it is. But trust me, I have busted my ass to get where I am.

Well, the shee rides in a 30' Weekend Warrior Toybox. The 30' Weekend Warrior gets towed by a 2002 F250 Crew Cab 4X4 Diesel. This will soon be a 2004 F350 Crew Cab 4X4 Diesel.

Don't think Toomey will set you straight, they recommend 280 mains at sea level... Negative ghost rider... way too lean. Even when I ran the airbox with no lid, I ran at 320 mains for Glamis. Now I have the Toomey 2:1 and run 370 mains at Glamis.

Stock jetting with PC Pipes? You are probably screwed. But, there are other simple things to check first. 3 things with electrical: 1. TORS 2. Parking Brake 3. Throttle Position Sensor You said it wasn't the parking brake so you need to check TORS and the TPS. TPS is in the thumb throttle, I had mine go out. Bike would start and idle fine, but would not rev. You can jumper this and check. Follow the wires coming out of the thumb throttle to a white connector. Disconnect and jumper the section that goes down the frame towards the motor. Then try and start. If not that, try disconnecting the TORS and seeing if that does it. If none of those works, you are probably due for a top end rebuild from running the bike too lean from the new pipes. One more thing, before you do any mods in the future, do a little research first, this will save you time and money in the future. I.E. putting pipes on and not changing the jetting.... bad call.

With no lid on the airbox, you are too lean on the mains. I would try around 270 or so.

I hear ya BenBB. People think I am nuts, but my bike likes it, it like it alot. I think people are afraid to go big on the mains, but I like being better safe than sorry. Oh yeah, I forgot to mention something about temp. I wanted to jet my bike for worst case. When we go to the dunes, it will drop to like 40-45, and we ride at night alot, so I wanted to be jetted for that and I figure if I lose a little during the day when it warms up, oh well. I don't have to be first everywhere, but my bike keeps running.

What air filter system are you running. This will play a HUGE factor in your jets. I run 20cc domes and have T5s with the 2:1 air filter. I run 370 mains with 30 pilots and Toomey needles on the 4th clip position from the top. I run 110 race mixed 50/50 with premium and 32:1. I would jet way up if I were you, unless you are running the stock air box with a snorkel.

I will use my bike for reference, it is close to what you are running. I have T5s, Toomey Needles and the Toomey 2:1 Air Filter. I run needle on 4th clip from the top, 370 mains, 30 pilots, air screws 1 3/4 turn out. I run at Glamis, so about 500' elevation, you will be even lower. My bike runs like a raped ape. I would start the same main and see how it runs. Do a plug check like you are supposed to in order to get stuff dialed in.

Do locking axle nuts really work? Should I buy a name brand or there is on one ebay for $35, brand new, some guy makes them. Do you still have to use locktite?