rzcolobanshee

Uhh did you create the site? Thats like saying yamaha should give you money because you ride a banshee. Have to admire Tom for making a crappy site with a simple layout and making bank...you just wish you would have thought of it!

True dat, if it's for drag racing you'd prolly be good with 25" 12 paddles

22x11x8 triple buff extremes are the absolute best tire

Can't see the pics could you email to [email protected] Thanks

I'm not real sure why it doesn't work but a few have tried and failed

Yup you're right on the stator, the 84 has a different bolt pattern, 85 is the same as a banshee. In stock form the rz's exhaust port is allready huge, right around 200 degrees which is what most drag ports are brought up to, it could be widened though, and the transfers could be opened up quite a bit. You can get aftermarket heads for the rz from duncan or prodesign...I've got my stocker milled .060 with the squish recut

What phone do you have? If it's compatible BitPim works very well http://www.bitpim.org/

bUMP

So I got in a little wreck on saturday, broke one of my tie rod ball joints (reverse threaded one) bent the spindle to where I can't get the hub off it and obviously i can't get the rotor off either. Seems to have screwed up the caliper also. If anyone has any of this you want to sell let me know, I would prefer to buy it all together but don't have to. It's for a 93 so the older 87-89 won't work but anything after that will.

Doesn't sound like a bad deal to me with everything it has, I would offer him 5500 and would probably buy it for 6000. I've got a 84 K5 and a 86 K10, I would never buy one again but they're fun for offroading

Been calling them and emailing with no response whatsoever

T3's are pretty pipey, and they get really bad when you cut them, you end up with hardly any low end. Once you get into the power they're pretty good, they rev very high. I wouldn't waste your time on them, get some cpis or shearers, you will be much happier. T3's don't fit perfectly on a-arm bikes, you have to put a small dent in the front of the pipe for the a-arm bolt.

Actually a properly designed boost bottle could be of great benefit on any 2-stroke (1 or 2 cylinder) Yamaha did extensive testing in the 80's on this (Y.E.I.S. as 03LB mentioned). The problem is it needs to be adjustable for different rpm's. I have a spreadsheet somewhere that yamaha developed that will give the exact cc's the bottle needs to be at what rpm. The way they used it was to find the dead spot in the dyno curve and design the bottle for that rpm, this would help smooth out the curve a little. I'm not saying the boost bottles on the market are any good, they are crap. I've swapped out a many boost bottles for crossovers. Hmm now I gotta dig up that spreadsheet

I'm not really sure yet, may not even happen....I'll post it for sale when I know for sure

I'll probably be selling my RZ cylinders this winter if anyone is interested, everything you need, just slap it on and go

I can't remember without looking at the manual if it is open or closed when the key is on....but just look and see if the hole is aligned, this is fully open, the exhaust port should be smooth like there is no powervalve when its fully open, it will be quite obvious if it's upside down

I just sold mine for the same reason, just way too pipey...so I can't measure them. I sold mine for $100 and that included silencers

Yeah I can see the welds near the stinger and they are shorter....definately not where you're supposed to cut, no wonder they run like crapola

Those don't look cut to me, you cut out of the expansion chamber, not the stinger Here is a pic of an uncut t3....looks the same to me, and considering there's no weld on the expansion chamber...yeah those are not cut...sorry

It's a pain in the ass, I never got it down perfect, picking the right type of stick for the plastic your welding is pretty important, they have different melting points, if you pick one that melts hotter than the plastic your welding you'll screw up what you're trying to weld....don't get the stick too hot or it will make it brittle, it's more like soldering than welding. That's probably not true if you use a high quality welder, harbor freight one pretty much sucks lol http://www.plasticweldingschool.org/ http://www.americanpwt.com/indexeng.htm

I rolled 3 times a couple weeks ago Didn't do a thing to the pipes...although I do have a nice circle burn mark on my back from the stinger lol....My bike runs great with drag pipes, but the exhaust port on a stock rz is around 200 degrees, I'd prefer inframes but I can't fit any good pipes on this engine....oh well cub next year

Talk to Dan at Patriot Racing, he's done alot with rz's, but I'm not sure if he's doing porting on stock cylinders anymore, last he told me he was only going to do cubs from now on but that may have changed http://patriotracing.net/

Our local college offers it online, very good school, lot of graduates work for us http://www.learn.colostate.edu/distance/ Here's a complete list of online civil.... http://www.worldwidelearn.com/engineering-...ring-degree.htm

Do you guys have offset rims? If you do that is definately the cause, go back to the stock offset and you'll be fine

You guys suck. Except for 350x, you da pimp