BitchenBanshee

you can polish the outside so it looks as good as a coolhead! Dont mess with the combustion chambers. Just mill the stock head and go.. The orings are a bitch. like the previous poster said "Smear some grease in there and install the rings". Hell with the stock head there is only one gasket and no freaking grease!

My opinion is that the milled, stock, polished head is the best.. I hate them damn O -rings and I can install a stock one about 10x faster than an aftermarket. Funny thing is that the water temp doesn't change between the two that much!!! I owned stock, pro design, and Noss. The stock is just much easier to install and I have never had a gasket leak with it!!

30 minutes should be sufficient! Just enough to get the plates wet and somewhat soaked!

Can't you guys see a joke when you read one!!! Man, I'm just kidding!!!!!!!!!!! You mean you don't want a 5 pound shave on your cylinders with a bench grinder! HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

I do port and polishing work at a very cheap price. I don't go by stages (not a exact science between builders). I go by the us measurement scale. 1lb trail port 2lb mx port and a whopping 5 lb drag port. a 2lb port is where I carefully use a bench grinder and massage 2 lbs of shavings off of your cylinders. I will continue to massage filings from them until I have a scale which reads 2 pounds. I guarantee good results and for only 75.00 per cylinder. I will even send you the 2 pounds of shavings so you can show your friends!!!

Man I guess I won't be sending anything to alba. It's obviously ported but I think that he forgot the polishing part of it! Talk about a rough looking port job! It should look almost like a mirror in there!

I guess I went through the same thing as you not too long ago! I went with the 21x12x8 on a 8 inch wide rim. The only reason why I dont like the 20's is because of the clearance and tire roundness. When I had my 20's I continually got stuck in the holeshots (off beaten patch places and you have to make a hill climb to get out). The 21's are taller which is better for me. You won't be upset with the above size. It has real nice roundness to it as well as a good bite for drag racing!

It more than likely is a compression problem. Sometimes after a new rebuild the rings don't set properly which causes a lack of compression. Put a compression gauge on it and see what it is. If it is low then all you have to do is get a re-hone job and a new set of rings on your existing pistons....

I ride there occaisionally... Although I think it sucks balls compaired to coos bay or florence!

I know....! Anyone that knows anything about cars knows about the Dana 60. Mr. onebanshee doesn't know what he is talking about!

Well.... I am not a fan of any truck so I guess I can say that I am unbiased. Unfortunatley I guess you are not.. Good! That is probably why you are biased. What do you not like about a straight axle dana 60. It is a tried and true axle that is also put in the Dodge and Chevy. So if you are saying that the Dana is a horribly setup then you are bashing everyone. Sorry to say... but the Dana is the best! The only thing left would be the automatic hubs (they all use them) or the transfer case (which most use the borg warner setup). Know something about your product before you speak! Then you would loose. The Cummins is well known for being the leader in performance. Didn't we just see a Ford with a Cummins do 11 something in the quarter mile? The Cummins is well known for reliability, gas mileage, and power. The new Ford 6.0L puts out 30 more horsepower and 43 more torque. So I guess you loose there also. The only thing that the Chevy wins at is the Allison transmission. The Allison is a well known tranny which should do wonders for the Chevy. Before you spout, do your research!

if a finger is gone, the basket is gone. Go find a Hinson or the Vitos basket for 150!

for towing, stick with the Ford Powerstroke or the Dodge Cummins. The Chevy diesel is an untested beast that uses a new style aluminmum block. Most companies have problems preventing the steel blocks from cavatating, let alone aluminum. Why buy an untested product when you can buy the Ford or Dodge and know it will be reliable! Plus the Ford and Dodge put out more horsepower and torque!

What a piece of horse Shi$. I bet that sum bits couldn't bail one bale of hay. What good is one of dem der tractors if it dont bail no hay. Dum sumna bitses anyways.

there are 3 things that effect clutch pull and the basket has nothing to do with it. 1. springs. There could be some aftermarket ones installed 2. Bad cable routing / damaged cable / unlubed cable 3. Clutch perch. a MSR EZ-Pull type will be much easier to pull than a stock type! Good luck!

I know.... I tried it and it will only search till when these forums got upgraded....

anyone?

Anyone know if we can access the old forums someway? I am looking for a couple of old posts for references and cannot access them. Anyone know how?

Like the above said.... If it is the dirt bike, prepare to get your ass handed to you!

hate to beat this to death but thanks for your help!! This crap gets confusing with all of the different sizes ETC. It is just hard to see the bow of the tire in that photo. I figured if you had a rear photo it would show better.... So the size that you run is a 21x12x8 tire with a 8x8" rim correct..

you don't happen to have a photo from the rear do you? You remember how much the entire set up cost ya? I emailed graves but he hasn't replied!

It can matter what oil was used. You don't want to use an energy conserving oil because it can cause the clutch to slip. The only automotive type oil that I have found that will work is Castrol GTX. Its the only one without the energy conserving stuff.. Like others said, try 3 stiffer springs.. If you dont want to buy the springs you can go to your local hardware store and puy a couple of washers that fit before the springs. The more washers.... The stiffer the springs.. The other thing that is a cause is glazing. If you fibers are in good shape you can take them out, and run them across some fine sandpaper to roughen them up a bit. This, springs, and a oil change should cure your problem!

Damn.... That made my toes curl!

I have never heard of this... Who does this? Can you just buy the rims that way?

If you lube the chain with an oil based product the sand will tear up the orings in a hurry!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You can use stuff called Drylube (silicone based), but that stuff was made for implants, not chain lube..... I tried the drylube for a number of years and each time after sand riding I noticed my orings to get even more tore up. Eventually some of them just tore from the chain. Plus the rubber to metal contact will rob a ton of power, non of us want that!