800MXZ

Well, success. I dissasembled the clutch again, and following some backyard advice of a friend with 20+ years of motocross experience. He said to dissasemble, and take some emery to the steal disks to take off any glaze. Then his second idea was to soak the plates in "Trans-Medic", an automotive trans fix-it-in-a-bottle. He says it will swell the plates. I then switched to Valvolive 20-50 Bike oil (for wet clutches), and now I am hooked up. I am sure it is temperary, but it will let me do some riding while I work on other issues. Thanks! Dave

I have recently purchased my first banshee (have owned a 250r for a long time) and have a question for all of you. The engine has some serious mods, such as Fatty's, White Brother' intake system (bigger carbs, bottle, billet intake), RAD valves, and I assume porting by how it runs. Now, the clutch hooks great in 1st and 2nd, but once powerband is reached in anything high, it slips. It has a hinson basket on it (should it "float"?) and the disks seem to have allot of material. I want to know, what kind of clutch system would be recomended to get it to work. I dont want to spend the cash to go with a lock up, so what should I do? It allready has 3 stiff springs and 3 stock looking springs. Do you think it is just worn out? I have adjusted the calbe, and took the cable tension off, adjusted the adjustment in the middle of the spring cover, and it is better, but not fixed. Also, the kid I got it from only ran a 15/40 automotive oil, nothing designed for wet clutch use. I have a gallon of honda GN4 here, but I am not wasting it just to drain it if I have to replace. Any advice apreciated.

Just bought a 99' Banshee with FMF gnarly allready on it. What is the take on these pipes?