locogato11283

check this link bro.. should have everything you need. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=126595

should be in the 55-65 hp range im assuming. a lot will depend on carbs, pipes, intakes, etc.. it will be a good step up from stock for sure. if you decide to upgrade the pipes, you will gain even more.

im not sold on the copper idea. about the only things i think would look good with copper is chrome and black.

what is the jetting of the bike?

you need to post a price.

i agree about buying new ones and replacing them. i think running them temporarily they would be fine, but i would go ahead and get some replacements in there.

so where is the tranny oil going? can you see where its leaking out at?

welcome to HQ bro no, you do not use the factory cushions. toss them in the trash can. thats the last you will ever see of those things.

no problem.. thats a good idea.

from center of pivot tube to center of carrier is about 19"-20".

i dont recommend using the stock timing plate. its a hassle to cut it properly and it doesnt have the timing marks on it. a lot simpler to buy a nice timing plate like the chariot and be done with it. most people on this site are advancing timing for motor setups. there are very few cases where someone is retarding the timing. you do have to be careful of detonation with the advance timing and sometimes higher octane fuel is called for.

an adjustable timing plate allows you to advance or retard the timing of the motor. generally, most people advance the timing in addition to having motor work done to maximize horsepower gains. you can do the mod with a stock setup as well. its not going to hurt you to do it and you may see some power gains from it. i recommend the chariot performance billet timing plate... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Banshee-6061-Billet-Adjustable-Stator-Timing-Plate_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem414c6b1f09QQitemZ280454962953QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

you will have to pull the clutch cover. the shift shaft will not come out unless you take the clutch basket off. it sounds like your spring is either worn out or came off. i would avoid starting the bike just in case its laying in the bottom of the clutch cover.

goes through what oil? transmission oil? can you elaborate on the issue? if the bike is a 1996 chances are youd be better off just buying a brand new crank. it sounds like you need to tear the whole motor down and go through it.

welcome to bansheehq that does seem a little premature on reed wear. ive been running mine for several years with no issues like that. running them flipped will be fine. i would probably go ahead and order some replacements to have just in case something happens. any of our site sponsors here on HQ can get them for you.

there is a set of excellent shape used elkas in the for sale section..

yes, you will need to split the cases to properly install the seals in the bottom end. checking other parts while youre in there is always a good idea. do you have reason to believe that something may be bad? if its a really old motor and youre tearing it down, it may be a good idea to install a new crank. a lot of times, you can find good used cranks for what it will cost you in time and money to repair the one you have.

if the bike is in neutral, there is no need or reason to hold the clutch in when starting. you can, but its not necessary. if the bike is in gear, then yes you have to hold the clutch in to start it. a banshee can be up shifted or down shifted with or without the use of the clutch. shifting without it may cause more wear on clutch parts, but its not going to hurt anything badly.

i sent you a PM about this stuff. i have a buddy that is very interested in it.

im not a fan of the 2 into 1 and have always been a firm believer in dual carb setups on the banshee. there are people here who use the 2 into 1 though. any idea what size your pilot it?

welcome to HQ bro we need to know all of the mods to the bike. also, what is the temperature and elevation where you are? what jets are in the carbs? we need to know both the pilot and the main. chances are that the main jet is not the right size and is causing the bike to run poorly.

you absolutely need to raise your pilot to a 27.5. most setups with aftermarket pipes and intakes require that even in the summer months. i would also raise your main to a 300 to be safe.

yes. i still have some jets for stock carbs that have rd on the side of them.

we always had good results with keihin 35mm pwk.

yes they will be fine. they will work the same as your stock jets. as far as the jet size, one size either way wont hurt you too much. if you dont feel safe going leaner, just go with the 330.