locogato11283

It will be. You better invest in some adult diapers too.

Should have opened them power jets up a little. Haha.

Why? Is it something I did?

Looks pretty good. The back picture is deceiving. It looks like the motor sits higher than it really does. If I were you, I'd really reconsider the front mount. Removing at least those short angled tubes will greatly help when it comes time to fab up the pipes.

I'm still waiting for the sprocket side picture. That will tell me a lot about the build. Scared to post it or what?

I don't need an engineering degree, I've built two bikes like this. I'm sure most of the chassis builders in this industry don't have engineering degrees either. Post a picture of the sprocket side if you're so confident in your build.

I'm glad you took the time to build this the right way. Hurry up and finish it and bring it to the LS ride.

There is no reason not to cut those front factory frame rails out. They are in the way plain and simple. You are going to have issues getting your pipes to fit because of them. Cutting them out would not have weakened the integrity of the frame at all and they would have allowed for a much cleaner pipe install. So you installed the swingarm, rear sprocket and ran a chain between it and the motor? If not, I would almost put money on you have chain alignment issues. It doesn't take much to throw a chain. I am criticizing the work because first and foremost, you posted it on my public forum for the whole world to see. Furthermore, I have built two conversion bikes and I know what it takes to build them. I think it's funny that you think cutting out the front rails is half assing it and taking the easy way out but rigging up some plate to check motor alignment instead of putting the swingarm on with a sprocket and chain is not.

I wouldn't have relied on some plate and measurements to get the motor in there straight. I would have put the swingarm on and run the chain from the motor to the rear sprocket and checked alignment that way. Just by looking at the rear shot you have, the motor is way too high in the frame. The center of the sprocket should be lined up with the center of the swingarm pivot tube. It looks to me that you're going to have chain issues. Do you have a shot of the sprocket side?

Running a longer lever is going to make the pull minimally easier at best. If you want a true easy pull set up you have to change the position of where the cable hooks up on the perch.

The hydraulic clutch levers are definitely easy to pull. I had one years ago. Only thing I didn't like was not being able to adjust it.

Stellar or JL. You can't go wrong with either. They do have different styles of swingarms, so just pick what you like and go with it.

Just depends on what you like. If you want to keep the same gearing ratio you have now you'll need to gear the bike up after switching to 20" tires.

It has been done by several people here. The main problem you're going to have is getting the pipes to fit. Those front angled braces where the front motor mount attaches are going to give you fits.

I've never had a motor overheat. Every time I go to the sand there are guys hot lapping bikes for two hours. If that's not enough to overheat a motor I don't see why you should be. Generally overheating is caused by something else not being right. Are you sure your jetting is good? Being too rich can cause overheating issues as well as being lean.

Cub = drag Serval = dune and woods I would recommend the Serval for you. Check the Sponsor Spotlight section. M&M ATV had some killer deals going on for Serval motor packages. Or just give them a call.

Not that I'm aware of. They started with VF2's as far as I know.

Porting > big bore kit.

If you can get the 501, run them.. Otherwise grab some stock YFZ450 tires. You can probably pick them up cheap.

I don't have any experience with the PJ carbs but I know they can be a little more of a pain to tune. If you're fouling plugs then you need to drop the main slowly until your plugs are a tan color after wide open throttle plug check.

The guy can do what he wants but he isn't going to be out whipping on anyone with a Vito's big bore motor. End of story.

Just use a socket that's about the same size as the bushing. Drive it out in a vice. Then press the new one in. It takes about 3 minutes to do it and then it's like brand new. I recommend replacing that bushing every year. For no more than it costs it's worth it when you consider the damage it can do if the clip and washer comes off because the gear has slop in it.

Drugs are bad mmmkkaaayyyyy.

Surely this is a joke.