Yaxy

From what I have read you are going to need the following: Stator, RZ CDI, RZ Servo motor, RZ Power valve control unit, RZ Voltage regulator? I am not sure, I am assuming the banshee's would work fine? Kill switch, ?? Spark plug coil, ?? I can't remember I wll have to get back to ya Chris

Sounds awesome broke, I didn't go to that level with the 12 port or 4 mm even though Dan recomended the +4mm. I am pleased that Dan recomends almost to the T the same set up on my current shee so I am confidnet that this RZ will be awesome at least I hope.. The RZ should be around 10 to 15 more horse than my shee. Chris

Do a search under my name. I have covered this subject in the last six month and there are several individuals on this site that have tried this. I personally will begin the wiring process within the next few weeks. RZ motor components enroute from Patroit as we speak. It feels like Christmas!

Do you have any Pics, What year shee! Chris

Are you willing to part out the bottom end? I am interested in the cases. Chris

Are you willing to just sell the cases? If so how much? Chris

If your 28's are Mikuni's your stock boots and clamps are fine. Unfortunately with reed spaceres putting on the boot is a big pain in the butt and usually requires taking off the airbox and sliding the boots on as an assembly. My suggestion, loose the reed spacers, it will make your life alot easier Chris

PJ-1 Blue labe works great, Just let it set overnight and it will stay on your chain no problem, plus I find it does not attract to much dirt once dry. Chris

Great Q & A Ray! Chris

Dual 35's seem large for what you are looking for. Alot of peple recommend the single set up for woods and MX but the kit new is like $400.00 +. For about $200.00 you can ge a set of dual 28 FS mikuni's I have them on my mod shee and they are great, great power everywhere. Chris

bogart. I am sure you are right, I was just speculating a bit, that is all. I will wait a month or so and see what developes. Chris

Thanks for your support. The stock Rocket silencer mounting point by the grab bar might be fine but since the stock frame and sliencers have two points to bolt the silencer up I would think it would be a better design. Plus wouldn't one mounting point increase the chance that the stinger tube by the Pipe junction would hit the frame? Just a thought. Please if current design is that good I will live with it trust me. Chris

You are right I have never seen rocket pipes, but have been looking to buy a pair over the past couple of weeks and I heard that they only had one mounting point. To my experience, typically 2 mounting point will alway be stonger than one but since I have not seen the silencers you would know more about that then I would. I am aware the current Rockets clear the RZ powervalves. This comment came about due to an earlier post regarding building different styles of the Rocket pipe. Chris

Congrats on your new business opportunity. I have never seen a pair of Rockets so the above posts helped considerably. The two things that I feel are important are: 1) add a 2nd mounting braclet for the silencer. One is just to flimsy 2) Don't use rivets on the silencers, screws or bolts with nuts woudl be great. Oh ya. If you change design please make sure they clear the powevlaves on the RZ350 equipped shee. Thanks Chris

I recommend all the above plus the iimpellar water seal. Chris

Woohhh my fellow HQ brothers. I hate to say this but this sounds like a bluetraxx thread. (broke you read my mind) Time to delete !!!!!!!!!!!. Keep the brother hood strong boys!! Chris

28 FS for me, They are great and reasonably priced. Chris

Do you plan on running the aribox? If yes you may want to think about using a 30mm or smaler carb. Through my experience with running 34 Mikunis and the airbox it was the biggest pain in the ass to take the carb off which usially involved taking the rear plasitc off, the silencers and slidiing the air box off which was no where near as a pain as trying to put the airbox back on. I feel I gained more from my 28 FS then my 34 mm round slides on a ported motor used for fast trails and sand pits. Plus you can get 28 FS milunis new for under $200.00. I will definately run 28 Fs on my RZ and next banshee, no doubt. But may consider 30mm, I wil have to talk to Dan on that. Chris

Most people recommend to put the RZ cylinders on the Banshee cases just because the internal gearing on the RZ is kind of high. With that said it is my understanding that the RZ's shift drum is made in a way in which the RZ shifts much better. So what people do is to take the drum off a RZ motor and put in there banshee motor with RZ jugs. As far as finding a RZ motor other than on E-bay, you will just have to ask around and see what pops up. I found mine from talking to a buddy who had a buddy who did not want his RZ motorcylce anymore. I know as of yesterday there were a few sets of RZ cylinders on E-bay if yo already have a banshee base you may want to consider that option. For me I am keeping it all RZ, and will experiment with external sprockets. Chris

broke, Dan also recommended a stroker but I decided not to go that route. That will be an a heck of a powerplant when your finished Zipties!! That does seem to be the method that everyone is using. Did you try a U-clamp from the hardward store? I set it up on my shee last weekend and put the clamp around the right side of the upper frame rail (this way the cables are pretty straight) up by the coil and mounted up the servo to it. It seemed to be fine and sturdy but when I tried to put my FMF pipe on a small part to the clamp hit the pipe. Hopefully the Rockets will clear it but I haven't ordered them yet. If so I will just modify the clamp a bit or just turn it somewhat. Did yo ever try the PTR's on the RZ. Just wanted to see how they cmoare against the Rockets for the set up you were running. I was going the PTR route at first but I was not going to pay $700.00 for PTR pipes and I thought the Rockets in correlation with my intake mods would make more sense. Chris

Regarding your question about pipe selection. The only pipes that I hear of and that people with RZ powered banshees are using are either Rockets or Paul Turners. To make the flanges isn't really hard. I took a 1 5/8 inch hole saw, and drilled through a 1/4 plate of steel. You will have to run at low speed and I would recommend some form of oil to help in the cutting process. Also I had to take a dremel and open up the hole in the plate a bit more so the tubin would fit. As far as tubing goes I got it from a Muffler shop. I took my FMF pipe with me and the tubin fit perfect. I have a sample piece at home and I will varify the pipe OD tonight if you would like I began this RZ project a few months ago. Search under my name in the search function and you will see alot of posts I began on myRZ project Chris

Turn your air screw all the way in. If better you have too small of a pilot jet or your jet is plugged ALso make sure your carbs are in sync. Chris

Cool broke, we are running similiar set ups. The RZ set up is going to be the same as my current banshee except the shee has FMF's not rockets. I was also pleased when I went to Patriots web site and seen that Dan recommended our set up almost to the "T' for that type of riding. He should be able to make the RZ really move and have a great poweband. It is cool that there are individuals that have insight on what seems to be a rare project. I thank yourself, Minkia, bogart, meat and others who have helped me in the past on these RZ questions. I will just have to be patient and wait till my motor comes back from Patriot who just got the parts today. I stil have some parts to order from Prodesign, a new clutch and the Rockets this weekend. My exhaust flanges are at the welder so I have to check on those and finish shaping the back plate to the exhaust valve gasket. I really want to do a ride report on comparing my shee to my RZ shee on a mod for mod basis but have no rolling chasis, and unfortunately am not really looking for one at this time. May buy a new shee in the summer if 05 was last year and am shopping for a house in the next few months to move in the fall. Chris

Thanks Bogart, Good to see that your bike runs strong. I guess I will have to see how the bike runs when I get to that point. I will have to spend some time playing with the gearing and jetting to get it right but I am pretty good at that and looking forward to see how different it will be than my current jetting on my shee I have my wiring cut up but still need to figure out how/what kind of kill swithc to hook up and the lighting. I will just have to wait till April when my motor parts come back. What did you use to hook your servo motor to the frame. I used a U clamp from the hardware store and it fits really good. Unfortuntealy when I tried to put my FMF's on the plate part of the clamp hit the pipe. I wil have to wait to see if the Rockets will hit when I get them. Just curious what you are using? for the suport? Chris

I agree with bogart, Sounds like you have coolant in your oil. This is bad!, drain and flush. As far a s crank pressure you should not here any pressure being relived when you remove the filler dipstick. Check to see if your vent hose in back by the engine mount and down by the water pump is pugged Chris