Yaxy

I second RZ loco's comments. I received my RZ jugs back from Dan about 3 months ago and port work and price was excellent. Dan also is very knowledgable in the RZ department. Chris

The 2006 shees have blue A-arms? I noticed the YFZ has but all the 2006 picture I have seen are silver. Chris

Bobby, Back in 1994 when I had my porting done it costed $300.00. Porting looks very good and even. My shee runs really stromng with a lot of torque everywhere. I am very pleased with the job PSI did and the bike is very reliable with no issues. Chris

For you non sled guys out there PSI is one of the premier aftermarket pipe and engine builders for sleds. If you have not checked out there site take a peak. You will be very impressed. PS. They did my shee porting a while back and did an awesome job. Veyt reliable and runs sweat. Chris

My Rockets for the RZ are due in this week. Next week I will have them mounted on the bike. If you would like the results PM me next week. Chris

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Thanks for the feedback, I am running a Battery illuminator instead of a battery I am looking at the RZ schematic and looking at the handlebar switch hookup since this has two wires just like the Banshee key swith. Following the schematic their is your ground ( and your R/W (red/white) Following this through the schematic it eventually attaches to B/W (Black/white) which per the schematic runs into the CDI Box. There is a R/W that comes out of the mag and goes to the CDi but my schematic does no show that. I am wondeing if I need to splice my key switch into that. Oh ya, I have about 5 Grounds that I have been trying to figure out the best and most efficient way to attach them. Thanks for you help Chris

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Guys, I am in the process of finshing the wiring for the RZ shee. I am using all the necessary RZ coomponents except igniion coil (Banshee) off the original RZ harness. I will be running the factory banshee key switch that has one hot and one ground wire. Per the RZ schematic the hot wire off the key switch runs into the B/W on the CDI. Unfortunately I do not see a B/W coming off the CDi and all but the ground wire are occupied. Please help me define where the hot wire off the key switch should go and if the Black wire off the CDI needs to be grounded? Thanks! Chris

Check the wantadd digest out of Albany NY. Their are always several banshees for sale. Chris

Start off with a 25 pilot and 340 main as wes suggested. 25 may be too much so but don't be alarmed. I have run down to a size 15 on my mod shee but 20 seems to work better. Chris

What is the difference in performance between the Fatty's and the Gold Series? Per FMF they are the same pipe. I have Gold Series on my banshee and looking to get a pair of fatty's on my next one. Chris

Yup, I agree with Holyman. Up here in NY where things get muddy and real dusty I replace the cable every year. For $10.00 your hand will thank you. PS: Do you have heavy clutch springs in? If so then start with the cable and go from there. Chris

Thanks Jeff, I will call you later on this afternoon after work. Chris

Thanks for the link, that was cool. I will check that out Chris

Would the installation of an aftermarket basket eliminate this problem? I am assuming that the required parts would be the same thus eventually I would have the same problem. I don't know since I have no experience with aftermarket baskets. If they are better and my problem would be permanetly eliminated then I would go that route. But an aftermatket basket is considerable more expensive then buying the clutch/gear assy from Yamaha ($140.00). Plus, after the installation of an aftermarket basket to the stock Yamaha gear shouldn't the assy be balanced to reduce vibration? Meaning the basket needs to be perfectly installed so there is no oblonged movement during rotation. Oh Ya by the way. Is this F.A.S.T the same company that used to be heavily involved with Ski-doo sleds in the lated 90's? Chris

Rubber Cushions? I know there is a big rubber O'Ring between the basket and gear. Jeff, are you referring to the cushions between the plates? If so, they have been removed. By the way what does that big O'ring do? I am assuming is acts as some for of vibration dampening devise in which tells me that ther should be some form of play between the basket and the gear. Chris

I noticed during the assy of the RZ clutch there was some forward to back movement when I grasped the stock clutch basket in one hand and the gear that is pinned to it with the other. I thought to myself this could not be right. In the meantime I dug out an old assy that came off the shee and the basket/gear assy did the same thing but worked fine while installed. Is this lateral movement part of the design or does the assy need to be replaced? There is no side to side movement just forward to back. Thanks for your help. Chris

Yeah, Awating the Rockets, I am on the waiting list and I really don't need them until February when I pull my Shee motor out for rebuilding. If the Rockets are not in by February no big deal I have unitl next march until my shee motor goes back in. Chris

Thanks guys foir all your help. For now I am going to leave it the way it is. I FINALLY got the RZ motor back together this morning and just waiting for my Rockets and will try to fire her up in November this year. Chris

Thanks guys, What would be the differnce between the 84 and 85 model? Im assuming it would not be the cases so it must be the coil assy itself? I will also consider modifying the stock one. Chris

I have the opportunity to purchase a new Banshee Pro-design timing plate for $40. Does anyone know the answers to the following: 1) Will the RZ coil assy bolt to the PD plate? 2) Does the RZ motor need advanced Timing (93 Octane, Ported, head cut) I have no experince with timing plates but I do run a Dynatek CDI on my current shee. I know that advancing the timing on the banshee helps quite a bit but do not know if the CDI for the RZ and Shee have the same timing curves, or if the RZ would benefit from the plate. Thanks Chris

Great guys, thanks, Cushions not going in. Chris

If you are running larger carbs the spacers will help the carbs clear the clutch arm. If you are using stock carbs or a size very similiar spacers make a good paper weight. Either way they are one big pain in the butt if you plan on running the airbox and I would not recommend them Chris