Yaxy

Since you are lean down low, have you turned the air screws all the way in on the carb? That should yield a better result. If the machine still bogs then your pilot jet is too lean. Since you have stock carbs I am not even sure if they make a #35 pilot jets for those. I recall the OEM specific crabs have a different style pilot yet then if you purchased a non OEM carb. The style pilot jet on my 28's is different than what is on a 26. Chris

Where I ride we have to stop at gas stations and fill up. I only need oil for a few gallons of gas so I go to a chain saw store where they sell small plastic containers of 2 stroke oil for use in your chainsaw, dump the oil and put the oil in it for my Banshee. Put this container in a zip lock bag and carry in a back pack or a fanny bag. Go to the gas station and put your gas and oil in, shake the quad around for a bit and good. I have been doing this for almost 20 years. Chris

Bell Ray Gear Saver. I have been using it for 25 years with no issues. Chris

Replace the boots every so often before they crack and you should never need to use silicone in this area. The factory gaskets should be enough. Chris

Ok. So I would try 30 pilot and 320 main jets. FYI: I am not sure what the Outside Diameter is on the input flange on the carb thus you may have to open up the hole in the intake boot.

So if we understand correctly, you are no longer using the 28s and now purchased 30 mm carbs? I have been running 28 Mikuni Flat slides on my banshees for 20+ years. Great carbs for trail, sand pits, seasonal road riding. Just some thoughts: #15 pilot is stock on these carbs, try size #20 Put air box and lid back on, Remove snorkel and if you want drill a few holes in the airbox lid that's fine Place the air screw at 1.5 turn out. If your low end isn't good turn air screw all the way in. If throttle response is just ok go up to a #25 pilot and repeat this process. You should not need more than a #25 pilot. There is no right or wrong answer on how many turns out the airscrew should be just leave yourself some room for fine adjustments.

Cheaper and less smoke as mentioned above are good advantages. I used Yamalube 2R at 40:1 for probably 15 years and found it excellent at lubricating but it didn't burn as clean as I would of liked. I now use Legend brand oil at 50:1. It seems to run cleaner, smoother and I am happy with it.

You will be fine. Next time you want to drain the gas from the tank, pull the fuel line off the petcock or the carb. This is a much safer approach.

Thank you sir and glad to offer some advise. I know this can be a confusing topic.

This is a great conversation and like the rest of you I am learning a lot. Over my 30 years as a Banshee owner I would like to share the following points: - Your engine is a pump. It needs a combination of fuel and air to run. An imbalance of any of these 2 components can lead to performance and longevity issues. - Since you are on a 2 stroke, let’s define fuel as a combination of Oil and Gas. Air is the 3rd component. - Your carbs have a pilot and a main jet where a combination of gas and oil flow through them. - When I was a youngster, I used to think more oil made my motor run richer. This is incorrect. Gas keeps your motor cool, oil is there to lube your parts. (Think of a 4 stroke motor, you don’t put oil in your gas tank). The more oil in your gas/oil mixture the leaner your motor is running. - With the above said, after an engine rebuild, I will always run a little extra oil in the gas for extra lubrication. I will do this for the first 3 tanks of fuel and then back to my normal gas/oil mixture. What I have learned. I used to mix 20:1, then 32:1, then 40: 1 and now 50:1. I feel 50:1 is a comfortable balance of a gas to oil mixture for the modded Banshees I own. We want to keep our motors lubricated thus we want to use the right amount of oil, not too much, not too little. The oil you buy should have a recommended gas/oil listed See what they recommend (Call the manufacturer if needed) and use this as a starting point. Whatever you decide on for a mixture, always remember to verify your jetting.

The Mikuni jets have a symbol on the side of the jet. I haven't used stock carbs in a while and I am not sure if you can even get a Mikuni pilot jet larger than 25 for the 26 mm carbs. This 26 mm carbs pilot jet is unique in comparison to the Mikuni pilot jets I am experienced with. If you pull the choke out and it idles better you need more fuel down low. When you put the slides back into the carb did you put the proper slide into the proper carb? The right carb has a right slide and the left carb has a left slide. When you look through the window on the side of the carb you need to see the window in the slide. If they are backwards the quad won't run right.

I would get the cylinders looked at by professional. and let them decide if hone or bore. The shop can then match the cylinders to the pistons you would like to use. From what see it looks like your jetting is too lean. A hole in the top of the piston tells me your lean and I see no traces of oil anywhere on the pistons. I would recheck the oil pump as well.

2GU sound like the start of a Yamaha part number. I just checked my 26mm banshee carb and it say 2GU on the side. Chris

With the assumption you are using stock carbs a 30 pilot jet should be plenty. From what your stating I would start by 1) Verifying your carbs are in sync by turning your idle screws all the way out and make sure your cables are in sync first, then sync with the idle screws 2) Verify your spark plug gag is not too large, I have experienced idle problems when the spark gap is opened up too much 3) Verify you have Mikuni jets. There is a difference. Rule of thumb I live by with low end jetting: Run the quad at low rpm in a higher gear, apply throttle wide open quickly. If falls on its face you need more fuel down low and less air. Chris

Does anyone know if these pipes are still availlable. Chris

New plugs will take several hours of ridng to build up any carbon build up. On a proper tuned banshee I recommend using old plugs not new plugs to do your plug chops. This will give you an accurate reading on your plugs. 30 minutes is know where near enough time unless you are running really rich. You could be running lean and never know it till its too late!!! Chris

Rocket pipes 28 Flatside carbs Jetting, 340 main, 20 pilots 14-41 external gearing

Do a search under my name. I did a compete RZ conversion back in 2006 and the quad has been absolutely flawless. Motor work was done by Patriot Racing/MX mods, estimates horse is 72 and torque is around 45lbs. Compared to my other banshee that has almost the exact same mods the RZ is insane to ride. Mounting all the electonics isn't that difficulte. Put the servo on the right side of the frame up by the ignition coil, battery eliminator on the right side of the aribox on the frame. CDI mounted to the back of the airbox, rectifier and the PV control motor where the current banshee CDI and voltage regulator is held. Clean set up. You won't be dissapointed. To be honest, the RZ has great low end but you will need to experment with the external gearing. I use the RZ internal gearing with a 14-41 external gear combo. Compared to stock gearing on a shee with this set up 1st gear on a RZ feels like between a 1st and a 2nd on the shee. This the same feeling till you get to 6th. From 5th to 6th the gearing seems close. People say the RZ motor with the Powervalves smooths the power delivery I feel just the opposite. The set up the Dan at Patriot Racing set up with just flat out rocks. Motor pulls much harder than my other shee. Not mellow at all. Yaxy

Most on this web site will recommend Wiseco because they are cheaper, lighter and a forged piston is typically stronger than a cast piston. When going to a forged piston you will need to run a larger piston to cylinder wall clearance than you would need to run if you ran a cast piston such as Pro-X. The extra cylinder wall clearance necessary for a forged piston typically results in more piston slap and wear on your cylinders and will result in more frequent engine rebuilds. WIth this in mind you need to weigh the benefits and risks of each. In terms of piston strength If your jetting is correct you will not have a problem with either. If you jetting is off it won't matter what piston you are running the result will end the same. Yaxy

If you run the right oil to gas mixture you should very rarely foul plugs. I have been running 2R on my shees for 15 + years and have never had an issue and never foul plugs. Back before the hight performance 4 strokes were common many of the factory motocross teams used Yamalube because it is that good. Chris

There have been several posts on the R-2 pipes over the past month. If you look in the "For Sale" or "Images" section you should find the information you are looking for. I have a set that I borrowed and have passed along to several people who are impressed with the results. Most are on full mod machines but I will get report next week from a friend who has a stocker. Chris

Yes, The R2's have gd low end torque. Powerband comes on early, hard and keeps pulling. I liked them so much I bought 3 sets. Please see my earlier ride report discussing some of the questions you have and the following as applicable to my test on an RZ powered banshee. Conditions: Partially cloudy 50 degrees Elevation: Approximately 800 ft above sea level Terrain: Sandy/Dirt and grass mixture, gravel road MX track moguls and open areas Quad: 06 RZ350 powered Banshee with following mods -MX Port -Pro Design Cool Head (21 cc domes on gas) -V-Force 3 reeds -28 FS Mikuni carbs -R2 Pipes Comments: All testing was done with no jetting work. Quad is currently jetted for Rocket Pipes as follows: (20 Pilot, 4rd clip on stock 28 fs needle and 340 main) Bike ran exceptional well with this jetting. Idle: Pipes had no effect on idle speed. Throttle response was instantaneous and was immediately in the revs when applying even the smallest amount of throttle. Low end: Once the clutch was disengaged the quad had immediate acceleration. Power was there instantaneously and had exceptional torque while never entering the power band. Compared to the Rockets the quad came on earlier and harder with the new pipes. A quick blurp of the throttle off a slow idle speed resulted in instant front end loft. Front end appeared to be lighter due to the additional low end torque. Mid Range: The bike could be lugged a tad bit more with the new pipes in comparison to the Rockets and as a result you did not need to downshift to accelerate at a good rate. Even in the lug mode once throttle was replied powerband came on really quick. Where the Rockets had a what I call two phase powerband, one initial hit then a lot of rev the new pipes had the hit and rev at the same time, basically the powerband came on harder, faster and sooner. Top end: (Gravel Road Test) Unfortunately, due to the fact that the jetting was not checked, wide open throttle was not achieved. However, hard straight line acceleration 1-6 gear was conducted and the bike never left powerband, Summary: From bottom to top the pipes performance is incredible. From lugging through the gears to heavy throttle applications the pipes perform.

The 28 mm carbs will work just fine with the stock intake and airbox boots. The intake side flange OD is a tad smaller than on the stock carbs so I woould suggest you have a little sleeve made at a machine shop to press on. This isn't necessary but you may find your self replacing intake boots more frequently since you will need overtighten the clamp to securely fasten the carbs. For set up, I have only had to change the pilot and main jets. These carbs seem to be very sensitive in the pilot circuit so you will need to experiment with your air screw to determine the appropriate amount of turns. I have these carbs on both quads and I am very happy with them. They add low end and there are no fit issues if you plan on using your airbox. Chris

Granted, once the motor is tuned, you will most likely not have to change spark plugs very often. Upon the completion of any new project, there is a learning curve that you will most likely have to go through to properly tune the engine. As a result, this will typically require many jetting checks throughout the throttle range to reach optimal performance. This will just take a little more time if you are using Rocket pipes due to the design.. Also, I have never had an issue with either my RZ or shee in the low end department. A properly set up and tuned banshee can run all day long in the woods,track and dunes. It is all in your set up. Chris