Yaxy

sschevy, Try these things 1) If has stock carbs, make sure the slides are in the right carb. You should be able to see the mark on the slide through the carb window 2) Are the carbs in synch? if not first synch cabels then idle screws If the above is fine your jetting is off or you have an electrical problem If the above is fine and problem still exists try the following 3) Take carb apart and clean it. Typically a low end bog is because of your carbs beign out of synch, your piot jet is clogged, your pilot jet is not fat enough or your air screw is to far out. If your pilot jets are clean and you still have a bog then adjust your air screw. Go from 1 1/2 turns out and turn all the way in. If problem is gone set someplace in the middle. If yo have the air screw all the way in and the low end is better but not quite right go to the next larger pilot jet and try 1 1/2 turns out and go through the processes above. Chris

Amen, Oh yes the good old days, The hell with going to the corner, your parent beat the shit out of ya. Man did you learn fast and how about the soap in the mouth trick, goddd I hated that. Oh yes the good ole days. Chris

Congrats Rick, Now the fun begins!! Chris

Sredish, I just bought a rRZ350 motor with all elactronics for $650.00 The motorcylce had 4600 miles on her. I took the head off and it is noticably different in terms of amount of cooling area than the stock banshee head. Also the pistons were stock bore, hardly any piston movement and the cylinders walls were in excellent shape. I am happy top say the learst. The motor looks really cool in a chasis, kind of square like a sled motor. From my understanding only PTR and Rocket pipes clear the powervalaves unless you want to dent a set of pipes. I looked through the RZ shop manual and all the internals except the tach hole and shaft, the plug where the vent hose comes out of the clutch case, the vent spigot that sits in the case and the interanal gears are identical to the banshee. From my expericne thus far all the extra holes that are part of the RZ motor have factory plugs to look just like a stock banshee. Chris

My v-forces actually did wear to a point to where they started making a sucking noice. The reads and cages lasted 5 years and this yeare I noticed a sucking noices from my carbs almost like an air leak. I took out the read cages and to my surprise there was a significant amount of clearance between the cage and the outer block. I no this is not right since they have always kind of snapped together. The sound of a aiir leak was the cages floating in the block, since the boot bolted up to the block and not the inner cage. I have never heard of this ever happening but when I have problems they are usually odd. Chris

broke, Did you see a difference when ported and head cut? I would only be running 94 octane fuel and a MX port. I am used to my FMF fattys that come on quick ad hard and rev really nice on top . Unfortunately I have only ridden one shee with PTR's about 10 years ago and never dirven a shee with Rockets ans sicne they are both alot of cash I want to be satisfied To me 0 to 70 is more important than top end power that keeps on pulling. Actually my FMF don't really pull much on top but they have awseome power at those high RPM and that is what I am lookling for. A light switch powerhband that has low end that I can run a gear high in the woods, not need powerband to excellerate really quick and just a well dual purpose shee. I will do some more research this morning on the PTR HIgh revs and Rockets Chris

I finally got to drive the RZ350 motorcycle this week and it sounded and ran sweet. Bike has got 4600 miles on it and 118 to 120 lbs of compression at 1200 ft above sea level and I am picking up the motor and all electonics next week My current banshee set up is great for the type of riding with alot of throttle response, low end, mid rnage and a good top end. I do and want a similar set up for the RZ banshee as my current banshee has: Hi comp head MX port 28 FS carbs Vforce FMF pipes. The bike has always been dependable and quick, I ride: 50 % seasoal roads 40 % 4 to 5th gear trails 10 % 2nd to 3rd gear trails I am thinking of the following set up for RZ 350 and have a few questions since I am not to famililar with the technology of the RZ motor: Head, Is cutting necessary? MX port, would this help? 28 FS, buying V-Force, buying Pipes, PTR mids or Rockets since they clear the power valves. I am trying to have a similiar set up to what I currently have by using the parts that I have experimented with that I feel work. If anyone has experience with my questons to the RZ mods I have mentioned above please provide feedback. Chris

Well, I just got back from looking at the RZ350 motorcycle and it was sweet. It is a shame that he does not have the paper work to put this bike on the road. It was clean and looked almost like new. Now for the good stuff. The odometer says 4600 miles and I belive it. The cylinders have 75 % of the paint on it and the side covers and head look like brand new, shiny 1 or 2 small scratches and that is it. The paint on these parts look like right from the facotry and there was no sign of beign repainted or any armour all being applied. So I started looking around the motor. Ther is no sign of a screwdriver or socket on any of the bolts, nuts or screws, So Know I am gettign anxious to hear it run. IT was stubborn to start and when it did it ran for about 5 minutes then followed plugs. In that 5 minutes it sounded sweet, no knocks or any funny sounds. While chanign plugs in her i pushed the kickstarter a few times and it really had good compression, (a + ) So the guy said I could have the motor all the electronics, carbs, boots and wire harness for $650.00 I said I wanted to think about it but I think this sounds like a great deal and am getting syched to find myself a chasis to put int into. What do you guys think, a good deal? Also he does not know what year the motor is. It is liquid cooled which I recall are the 85 and 86 models SHould I be alarmed if I do not know the year or would these model have interchangeable parts? Chris

Dan, 20 ft lbs is the standard. Chris

421 stroker, In NY as you mentioned we register off the frame not the engien. As long as I can find a good banshee with a blown motor that has been regeisterd I am all set. i am going to see this guy on Satruday monring this week and see what he wants for it. if the price is to much for me I will post the price and give you guys a phone number. I hope not cause building the motr sounds liike a great winter project. Chris

All right guys I am back on this craze. I finally got a hold of the guy the other day and he is really anxiuos to get rid of his RZ. He has no paper work with it so he could never register it and ride it on the street legally. He bought the motorcyce in 1994 and it is a 1984 model woth 4000 original miles. He says it runs great and am going up to see him this weekend and see what this thing looks like. I then found out that another friend has a 1989 banshee motor with a good low end and a blown top end for $100. From what I have read the RZ 350 cylinders are ideal on the banshee cases due to the gearing and being I would be buying the whole motorcycle that would solve any electronic hook up problems. We will find out more this weekend. Chris

I have had my banshee for 14 years and I never get bored with it. There is that thrill factor that just can't be replaced. Properly set up it will be hard to beat in any condition other than a MX track due to its hard hitting powerband that just wears you out. I can putt putt in the woods all day with no problem keeping up with the thumpers and I feel the handking is incredible, even though others may think otherwise. I also feel the banshee motor is almost bullet proof if you keep the filter clean and run good gas and iknow how to jet your carbs. My bike is 15 years old, probably almost 30,000 miles on her, (dunes, trails, fire roads) .40 over on origianl cylinders, orignal crank minus two end bearigns that I WANTED to replace and original transmission. I am buying a new quad next year and thought about the 450's but I feel other than the MX track my banshee would be just as good and be a hell of alot more fun to ride. Plus I think it may be the last year Chris

God I love those 89's. Mine looks exacly like that, original plastic and stickers, rims, lights, motor, brakes etc. Something about that red and grey combo. I hope the 06's look like this. There is no 06 picture out yet, hopefully one more year min. Chris

Percy, if you have the stock axle carrier and the brake hub moves there are two possibilities. 1st is that your axle nut may be loose, if not your axle carrier bearings are bad. If you have an after market carrier some tapered brands recommend that you just snug the axle nut, thus you will alwys have a bit of forward and backward movement. Chris

I got a hold of my friend last Friday to try to find out more about the motor. From what he says the motor is out of an 1984 and the guy has been riding his bike with no problems. The reason why he is gettign rid of it is becasue the motor isn't the original VIN number of that was assighned to the frame. So the first thing is to get a price from this guy, If good, I will get the VIN numbers off the motor and make sure it is a 1984. If so I then need to make sure I can Register the quad after the fact since I plan on just installing the motor on a chasis, unless I can find a rolling chasis with a blown motor in which I will just swap jugs. I will keep you all posted as time goes on. And if price is to high for me if you would like I will give you contact information. Thanks for all your help. Chris

Your carb boots are probably not going to last very long that way, I did that for years and went through alot of boots. White broters sells a flange that presses onto the inlet spigot on the carb. Makes for a perfect fit in the stock boots. Chris

www.ford-trucks.com/forums Is really good in my opinion Chris

Common guys Bluetraxx ain't that bad, The best part is Club BT, They got some funny shit on there. Here are a couple of links from a week or so ago, I laughed my ass off and most of it is so true. Chris Copy and paste. http://www.bluetraxx.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=58716 http://www.bluetraxx.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=58704 http://www.bluetraxx.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=58701

My goal , was that if it was cheap enough and I did not have to dick around with things it may be worth it. I have to figure that I will have to buy the motor and do a complete rebuild, So I will probably spend just $1000 alone on the motor and if it costs me another arm and a leg to get the bike useable, heck with it I will just spend $5000 and buy a new 2006. But since I do not know what is involved with this project it is tough to make a detemination. Oh ya, I just want to bolt the motor in as J.J said. Chris

JKJK, Thanks for the feedback. I have heard of Christian Motorsports. I have a friend that races over towards Gloversville which is an hour away from where I am from and the guy is very supportive of the sport from what I here. I know he is a big Elka delear and if I decide to go that route I would consider callig him. Idealy though, If I decided to go with Elka's I would probably jump into my car, travel 4 or 5 hours North into Canada and buy them direct form Elka. With the exchange rate and that Canadians like American cash I should save a good $$$ Chris

Back in I think 1999 they made the front ohlins comp and rebound adjustable. They are about $1100 retail, whihc is about $400 + more than the non comp and rebound ohlins. Chris

Thanks guys for the price range. I will see this week how much he wants. Will the RZ motor bolt right in, and what about pipes and ignition and all that other stuff? WOuld this be an expensive project ($2000 +) and would it be worth it? Chris

Great opinions guys, I have to agree with some of you on this. I put Ohlins front and rear on in 1998 that were just off the shelf shocks from parts unlimited for $1250.00 total. As banchetta and special blend mentioned the Ohlins are smooth. The back shock is incredible, you name the speed the trail and that shock will soak up everything you throw at it. And then go to a motocross track and I never have to adjust the rear shock, it is just that dam good. I think it is incredible and can't understand or view Elka being any better than a rear Ohlins. Ohlins has always been a high quality shock and even though they may not be as popular in the U.S, over in Europe they dominate the market which happens to be much larger than the US market. So that has got to tell you something. My front ohlins could be tweaked though. They are really good unless you are on a motocross track. THey appear to rebound to quick and since they are only prelaod adjustable there is not much I myself can do about that. I am sure if I bought the full adjustable front shocks that problem woudl be solved. But alot of you are right, setup is everything and especially with the rear I spent a month or so playing to get it right and I could not be more happier, slam into it, very little if any kick, the ass end stays put and keeps gaining traction I do like the feature of the SSD Elkas and wish I could get a set for a while and experiment, but my ohlins seem to sit really low and have good sag to them. I have never changed the oil in the shocks and I probably should but the bike still rides smooth. The shocks seem to be priced even and would like to try the Elka's but I would be really pissed if I spent $2000 + and thought my off the shelf ohlins were better. AHHHH this is a tough decision. Is there arny Elka Dealers on here that would take them back if I didn't like them?? Chris

$1500, I am sure I can get it for a lott less than that. I have an extra chasis and shocks laying around and it probablay would not be that hard to find a complete rolling chasis. I never really thought of the RZ motor approach but hell if I can get one rellatively cheap I can have a spare motor laying around. Chris