Koolguyson

Might give Safarian a call and see if he can get you a deal on custom PBI's...

Had a similar situation with DD when I was making 630 gears for my hayabusa sand rail. I was running a bandit rear, but needed it to have a special ID to clear the hub. They just sent me regular busa gears. When I called them they fussed and whined for a bit, but eventually chalked it up as their mistake and made me new ones. As for my 530's. I now run PBI aluminums and they are great so far.

They are assholes. When I called and told him about the issues I had with TWO of their brand new stators, the owner just had a fuck you attitude and tried to rush me off the phone.

It is an old bike. If it was built back in the day, it could have had that much money into it. A stock cyl 500 is a 10mm crank with a lot of cylinder work. At least he isn't asking the farm for it.

JB weld might loosen up with the heat and vibration. I would put a little tack on it if it were me. (Kidding...DON'T do this). And never put one of those stupid plug locks on it.

Back the timing off.

I had two Ricks that were bad out of the box. OEM is the ONLY stator I would trust.

TnT is moved to the week before the race.

You sure Marysville is still running? I am hearing that it may be rained out.

Isn't the Marysville race this week just a test and tune? You shouldn't have to worry about breaking out. Track lingo? Lol...if you can cuss and talk shit you should understand what we are saying just fine. Main thing to keep in mind is to just run your race. Ignore everybody in the stands. F*ck the guy waiting for you in the other lane. Just do your own thing and don't rush it. The more nervous you are, the more of an ass you are going to look like. Oh, and wear something very thin and revealing..eer slimming. For aerodynamics...unless you're chubby. Then you'll want like a corset. Again...for aerodynamics.

It is an electromagnetic component. We can't tell you if it is good or bad by looking at it. Test it. I have seen some pretty fubared stators work just fine while nearly new ones sh*t the bed.

Only the first 13 numbers are legible. The rest are faded. If I got it in the sunlight I may be able to see them, but I doubt it. I'll email you a pic.

I may have my buggy out there. If I get my parts back from heat treating I'll let you know.

Central Cali, Pismo Beach area. Sent

Anybody interested send me your email address. Loco...only a 50k attachment quota?

Bike is in my storage, but I will get you some pictures. Not sure if I can legally give you a bill of sale because it is by all accounts of the law not mine. It is just an abandoned piece of property. I can't even put a lien on it because I have no idea where the guy is.

I had a guy drop this bike off to me...geez. 7 years ago or better. It needed a little work done but when I did the work I couldn't get ahold of him. His phone doesn't work, he never gave me an address...and so I consider it abandoned. It was stored at my dads place an when he and his ex wife split, she took a chemical to the numbers and it ate the the powder away. It sounds fishy in all, but all of you guys know me pretty well. Lol, she did the same shit to some of my own personal bikes as well so I am not trying to hide anything. Just want you to get the whole story. Overall the chassis is straight and in fair shape I pulled the motor for my own use and am selling this as an entire roller. Chassis front arms front suspension front brakes rear axle carrier rear brakes rear suspension grab bar front bumper both master cylinders stem bars billet bar clamp controls Make an offer. Chassis color is black.

I may have something that will work for you. I have a brand new Fox rear spring that was too stiff for me. If I remember correctly it is rated for a 200lb pro rider. Just not sure on the dimensions because it was for a Fox shock. PM the ID and OD on your spring, as well as length.

Yup, just because wiseco sells a 4mm crank for 350 doesn't mean I am going to bang the door down at crankworks because they want 700 for one... (And the Chariot is 50 plus 5 to ship on ebay...this guys' is 60 shipped) Hardly worth haggling over IMO.

Hopefully that isn't your security. It takes less than 5 minutes to hotwire a banshee

You aren't jumping an 80 properly until you start snapping shock shafts. Sadly I have no video. But I do still have the snapped shock and broken cylinder. I had more fun in my yard on my 80 than most days out at the track or dunes.

I would take the DM

Yup

Not needed. Your bike isn't putting down a true 140 either. Expect real world numbers around 115-125. Only way you would put out 140 on a 10mm is with a Cheetah DM. Now if you are running a 10mm DM you'll want the billet gear.

Was I talking to you? I mean, did I specifically quote you and reiterate exactly what you said? Nope. But since you asked it first, I guess the rest of us can no longer give that sort of advice.