Koolguyson

650 for the basket, straight cuts, and two sets of pedals. Hell of a deal...pedals would cost ya 130ish alone Plus my basket is basically new, it was just a backup in case I broke the one in my motor at a race.

Not sure if you're still looking, but I have a Hinson basket with straight cuts that is practically brand new. Also have new vf3 reeds still in the package.

Not impressed with their depth. Some guys are amazing at doing this process, but these guys have a ways to go. You can have similar results by doing it yourself. Check out youtube for tricks, but it's fairly simple to get that "shallow" look. The pro's have some other sort of technique that looks amazing though.

Diesel or a clean solvent is best.

Those bolts break easily and are junk, you'd be better off getting some 6mm bolts from the hardware store. Hell of a lot cheaper than 9 bucks too.

Where are the fkn pictures? False advertising...

My motor gained rpm and horsepower by going to an oem box because the dyna was breaking up on the big end. We tried many configurations before pulling the dyna, including setting the curve the same as stock.

I have: New OEM Used OEM New aftermarket. Pick your poison...lol.

I knew you would say a turbo, which IMO is a completely different animal. Same with a nitrous bike. My stock curve seems to be doing alright. Like I said, we tried the dyna, it hurt us. I would love to try the programmable pvl one day. Like I said, show me one of their personal bikes with a dyna. Dome is in two weeks. I'll be sure to keep an eye out for you. Honest question, why would they have you program one? Because they don't have the cable because they don't run them? The software is free and available online.

I haven't shaken a stick in quiet awhile, but sure...next time you see a K&T/Titan/A&S/Packard (or similar reputable builder) bike with a Dyna box on it, let me know. I haven't ran an MSD, but I hear they are solid ignitions. Snop, it wasn't anything else. I swapped the cdi on the dyno to try and fix our issue of the ignition breaking up and it solved the issue by making an addition 5hp and 550rpm. This happened to me years ago too on a much smaller build.

I am definitely making more horsepower than you, which may be why I notice it more as it strains the ignition like crazy. Most people probably don't talk about it because they don't do the testing that I do. That or they just can't feel it? My completely stock ignition with stock curves and stock cdi/box/stator has ran high 3.40's. More over, not sure who "everyone who has run one in drag" are, but look at any builder, they don't run them either. Not trying to start an argument, but they just aren't worth it if you are looking for power. You can do just as well with a timing plate.

It is about making as much horsepower as possible. When I had the data acquisition equipment on my dmx it would often launch at 6k rpm, and when it bogged it would go into the low 5k's. So we use low end, just like the duners. I have tried two Dyna's, and both lost considerable power on the topend. They simply do not produce spark in the upper rpm and they cut out. It seems to only happen with banshee's though because they work great on my 250r's and 4-junks.

Like lost horsepower? Sure. I felt it too! There is a reason why people who actually race use the complete stock ignition and not the dyna. Edit: "people who actually race" wasn't a slight towards anyone, just meant people who can actually monitor performance gains easier than duners/rec riders.

Would have been a lot cheaper to spend a couple minutes turning it down in a lathe to clear.

The dyna is trash and is something that you should NEVER need to buy.

Still in the package.

I have two sets of reed petals. One set does one block. 60ea

Sometimes you get lucky, and sometimes you don't. The issue I have had in the past was too much bearing crush and it would lock the transmission up. Other times however, I had no problem. So just be careful.

I have a set of petals to do one reed block. 65 shipped or trade for CR500 VF2 reeds. Thanks

I have replacement pedals for one block. 65 shipped.

The o-ring doesn't do anything other than hold the bearing in place. You can glue the o-ring together with some super glue, or you can leave the o-ring out and loc-tite/1211 the bearing in place as well. Either way is just as effective.

The blow up in the clymer is about as good as you're going to get. It doesn't get much better than a blown up schematic with tooth counts on the gears...

1.Lectrons 2.Keihin Only two options in my eyes.

I have a droid X. Love it...

Every anodizer has a "minimum" charge. They'll do any quantity you want, but they won't give you a discount for a single part. I anodized mine and the clearances were fine. However, if you PC it, I doubt the arm to body clearance will be ok. If you DO PC it, ask the PC'er to tape off the sections that are tolerance specific.