Koolguyson

Hondabond, yamabond, suzukibond all set up too quickly. Threebond 1211 is best.

I need a few sets of #2 forks. 4 or more would be preferred. Thanks

What is your email? I have a Black Label chassis that I am looking to sell for $2200.

A stock banshee isn't going to kill a clutch cover. But if it were a bigger motor there is not a part on the right side of the motor that is safe

Low compression will cause that issue as well.

Never understood the fascination with that guy even 2 years ago

Bought a Ricks Motorsports 200w stator. Didn't work out of the box. Called them up, and they wouldn't do anything from me since I didn't buy it from an authorized dealer. Bought a second one and it did the same damn thing. I will only buy OEM now.

You can tell by the stock chassis, stock shocks, and the t-rex cylinders that trick racing is still the guys to beat.

Bearings, threads, and rods need to be in good shape. Stock or aftermarket works as long as it has 110 rods.

If you still need one, PM me.

Because we go faster...lol. More reciprocating weight means less likely to bog, and an ignition curve is much more beneficial than "set" timing. Plus they are easier to kick.

I would love to see a dyno chart of this thing making 140hp as well. No offense, they just don't make that kind of power.

I have been 93mph in 300ft lol

I run stock on my 18, and most of the current builders have switched back to the stocker as well.

Just because you haven't seen them in all your time doesn't mean they don't exist. Especially if you haven't been looking. Yup Rubberneck. Those are the ones, I bought a couple of them a few years ago and am still on the first one. I believe I bought them from K&T.

Get a torrington type bearing to solve the welding issue and you can purchase steel clutch cover gaskets that prevent ripping/tearing.

Trying to force a motor to turn over when it clearly doesn't want to budge is only asking for more trouble. Your motor is most likely seized or otherwise bound up. You can put it in neutral and try to roll the crank over (via flywheel nut) and that will tell you if it is in the transmission or the top end.

I bought a couple. Thanks

I need the whole assembly. Kicker gear, spindle, spring, etc. Let me know what you have. Thanks

Shells will work well on them

Cascade builds motors. Cascade ports motors. You said you bought a motor from Cascade. So go fuck yourself if you expected me to know that they didn't build it. Some of you guys act like kids over here.

True story. Never said they didn't.

Whatever makes you happy big bad internet guy. Not sure why you would have cascade of all places build your twister motor when you have the best in the business in your home state. LOL "Cheap does not make a difference to me, getting the best deal on a given product does". So you aren't cheap, you just want the best (cheap) deal. Makes sense now... For what it is worth, when I said get a cast cylinder...I was only meaning the price DIFFERENCE in a cast vs. billet. Billet cylinders cost more. Go try to be a bad ass to somebody who cares.

Stainless is a soft metal and it will stretch, twist, and warp. I wouldn't recommend doing this. Plus they have a habit of galling.