lowriderb

do you have any other info besides "its un touchable", or it goes this mph but your not sure? motor details would be best.. chassis set up isnt that important.. im building a little motor (for our group) to be done for sicily island in october, and im sure we'll have a 14mm and a bigger motor with us as well.. none run in the 1/8th all are for sand.. also invite them all to come on out to the clash of the titans at sicily island.. there should be some bikes out there that will give him a run for his money..

the older cpi's had fitting issues and weld leaking issues.. though the newer ones shouldnt have that problem anymore according to cpi.. also it sounds like your lean.. or at least from somone that runs at sea level it sounds lean.. most all the people i know of that have inframes and stock carbs (or have ran them) ran bigger than a 400 main with mild to drag porting.. 27.5 pilots as well.. but then again that is a sea level..

the stock carbs can be converted to alcohol, two different ways.. one is without a power jet and one is with.. when i had mine done it was without, there is a common 10% or so gain in power over running gas. the compression is good to have pretty high, 170 is a good number to throw out there but ive ran more before.. and i usually run about 9-10 degrees advance on the timing.. b9es for plugs gapped at .018-.016..

flywheel is sold.. thanks B

cases are sold..

cases http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...AMESE%3AIT&rd=1 flywheel http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...AMESE%3AIT&rd=1

more than likely if its a 420 then it may be a bb instead, have you pulled head off? if it is a bb then 17cc domes would give you alot more compression than that.. the big bore dome cc size is bigger than a stock bore cc size so a 22cc bb dome could be compared to a 19 or 18 stock bore dome relativly.. also with the stroker or not, the cc of the dome isnt going to make the same exact compression on everyone elses bike, due to the port work mainly the exhuast port being different on 10 different bikes running the same size domes.. thats why the compression chart on some sites are only with the stock configured port lay out..

if you like moto cross drag racing go to the dunes.. i used to go there till about 2 years ago (after seeing my first major accident there, where the person ultimatly passed away from injuries) we dont go there anymore. sicily island has a great track to race on, but i havent wandered around too much being that i dont have a stock bike to play on too much.. wiggins has hard hooking grated track, the area for riding is nice and they have a few large hills to shoot too.. the directions overrated gave you is almost exactly how i had them given to me too..lol they get you there for sure..

stock pistons are cast, of course they will hold up to some nitrous but how much i wouldnt be willing to try to find out.. from what ive seen with gas you want your fuel jet about 4 steps larger than the n2, with alcohol you want it to be 8-10.. like fasterthanU said i would deffinitly get the crank trued and welded and some forged pistons..

190 on the exhaust is pretty low.. i would deffinitly look into some drag pipes.. the bigger carbs would help you out pulling on mid to top end.. you could possibly put your gearing at 15-39 or so and launch in 1st and run through 5th, the bigger sprockets are harder to get out of the hole with, the bigger bikes that i ride with are running like 16/44 (14mm cub launches in 2nd) and 14/38 (7mm stock cylinder launches in 1st) both are running 22in paddles.. for tires i would run prowedges backwards and they should hook pretty good on hard pack.. also whats your suspension set up at?

http://www.ktperformance.com/home.asp

resleeving them with the big bore sleeves will cut down on the transfer area thats already small on the stock cylinders.. if you were to keep the stock sleeve and have almost the same port job on the jugs the stock sleeved motor will run harder than the bb sleeved one because of this.. im sure a search of this will show other people (myself included) saying the same thing. for the cost of the bb sleeves installed them ported (by a reputable company) will cost about the same as a set of cubs..

for the cost you can set up a set of cub cylinders for a set of bb ported stockers.. as for a builder there are many suggestions that come to mind, ive said it before and i would call around and see which you like best, if they sound like used car salesmen (like a few ive called) then walk away.. best bet would deffinitely do your homework into what you would want done, the total cost and do it one time instead of over and over again..

like others have said your paying for their knowledge and skill with the type motor. banshee's start out with about 30hp (give or take a little) a decent mild port job (with associated parts) will get you into the 60's pretty good, a specific built motor can a will yeild in the 90's or 100hp range (with the right set up)..

ditto..

http://www.cpindinc.com/ site for cp industries (builder of both cheetah and cubs).

did you do any tuning on it? (you didnt say) reason i say that is because people will bench tune their bikes all day long and when they try it in the real world what they were either told or figured they needed was not right but they didnt check it.. if it wasnt lean as hell then you had/have an air leak..

with the big bores you are going to have different dome sizes than the standard sizes.. 20's with that bore are probably small enough to keep up with pump gas.. but look into that more..

do you have port work? if so that would make a difference in the compression.. with out port work 20cc domes should put you at about 155-160psi, if you have port work depending on the porting 18cc domes may only give you 145 or so.. but that depends on the type of port work involved..

the billet cranks are better than the regular ones.. call crankworks or twister for them.. i would do the 10mm over the 7, for the few hundred that it may cost more at the time youll be happier with the outcome.. with the 10mm i wouldnt worry with the straight cuts just yet (unless youve got 600 bucks to spend on them), i would more worry about getting a better clutch basket.. with the 14mm cub that we put together the stock basket lasted all of about 8 passes then had to be switched to another one to get 8 or so more passes before that one was shot (were out of town and the billet basket didnt make it in, straight cuts and billet basket are now on it).. launching in 2nd (2-5) with 17/44 gearing 22in 14paddle extremes.. the 10mm cub that was put together ran about the same everything else but the tires and gearing were different running 15/39 and 25in 13paddle extremes.. we also have a 7mm cub and 4mm cub (mine) that have been ran and the two bikes were about even in the stock chassis (mine had a little more weight loss than the 7mm)..

well by now if there was an air leak then you would have melted at least a couple sets of plugs.. though it could be a possibility though... for almost a stock motor like your describing it sounds kinda on the high side, but then again your elevation seems to justify it.. on gas you want your plugs to look like chocolate milk..

what all was changed with the port layout? if it was changed much then the 420s could be good.. with a large air leak youd need much larger jets than 420's imo.. with my 4mm stock cylinder i had a crank seal go out and had .128 (drill bit size) mains and dump tubes, with .96 (biggest you can go) power jets and was still leaning out.. once it was taken care of it ended up going to a .113 main/.116 dump and .76 power jet.. with pretty much the same jetting for the cubs.. when my motor was a 350 it was running on 470's with stock carbs, open filters, bill's pipes, timing at +8 (pump gas) ... 150 psi of compression..

exactly, its a 4mm total bigger rotation on the crank (going by the pins)

not really, you dont run the tee even with the carbs, just lower than you normally do.. that doesnt make the flow only run to one carb.. they would still pull the same as long as its about even runs from the tee..

stock bore 4mm stroker would put you at a 373.171cc motor.. imo i wouldnt want to go from stock bore to .080 over for no other reason than to say that cc size is that motor... going with just the stroker crank (long rod preferred, also with 795 series wiseco's) with the stock bore will leave you with alot more cylinder life left.. the next biggest thing to consider is to run with or without the spacer plate with that set up.. i ran mine without and had the domes cut for the stroke (cool head) when i had stock cylinders..