dano3

the sedona paddles were junk on a stock cylinder bike with toomeys so they are going to be useless on a serval. I run the padla brats with my 421 serval and love them but i have never ridden skats on this setup to compare.

sell you a full set for $1500 plus shipping

Thank you. Also forgot, added yfz front calipers and yfz450R master. Made a huge difference! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Gusto for reminding me about this thread. Last march riding trails I pulled in some muddy water and bike stalled out. Tore it down and had cylinders ported by redline and replated. 2019 BHQ fall ride LOL And went back 1 week later Picked up a fireball stock length swinger, tusk axle, and JDS sprocket/rotor guards. Next up want to have these elkas rebuilt/revalved as i have never been too happy with them as they are extremely stiff. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ill update my build thread! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just to answer this, i went with 23” from fitting end to end and probably could have went 2-3 inches shorter. Stock length swinger. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

no longer needed. bought a fireball swinger!

Looking to buy a stock length roundhouse swingarm intended for a stock length rear shock with OEM link. Already have a carrier and brake stay so swinger only. Not interested in any junk or no name brands, let me know what ya got shipped to 76177.

400EX thumb throttle, cutting 4 coils off the OEM PWK springs, and lubing the cable with the motion pro cable lube/tool made a huge difference on my 35MM carbs. I need to try the trx90 lever next.

^^^I will ask. Anyone know the brake line length for stock length roundhouse swinger? i remember reading that it ends up being shorter than the stock brake line but cant find that thread. Any help is appreciated.

Found this thread and looking for a brake line for stock length roundhouse swingarm. Apex said they do not have the measurements. Do you happen to know what length you went with for this??

DRW case saver FTW. just search drw case saver banshee on ebay

have you been training for the drinking competitions?

unplug your kill switch connector (6 pin behind rad), CDI connector, and stator connector and clean them out and press on the pins to make sure they are in place. I had a pinfit issue at the kill switch connector that would cause an intermittent bog and then a no start with a weak blue spark. tightened the female pins and a little electric grease fixed the issue until i bypassed it all together.

https://farmandsandtoys.com/ocart2/atv/yamaha/banshee/pingel-powerflo-fuel-valve-dual.html?filter=44

may sound dumb but make sure one end of the clamp isnt larger than the other and you are trying the wrong side. The ones i have on my shearers have different size ID between sides. Like fearnot said, i usually pry them open when taking on/off to slide them off.

Ok just checking. Guessing the surfaces are not flat or maybe they are getting tweaked when you torque down?

how long are you waiting from sealing it up to pressurizing it?

did you leakdown test after assembling this new setup? based of symptoms, maybe clutch side crank seal is pulling in trans oil (i know you said you looked at it) which could explain the wet plug and dripping oil. Ive never experienced this so not sure if this would explain the piston being clean but worth a check. If leakdown test passes and since it happened after sitting for a few weeks, clean out all circuits in both carbs, ensure jets are cleaned out and they match, and verify still synced then retest.

that should prove top end is in good condition. I would avoid running it any further before you resolve that air leak.

Most likely would not and if you got lucky it would only be a matter of time before it returns and ends up burning that piston up costing you more $.

crankshaft seal or case halves. Pull the flywheel cover off and spray soapy water behind the flywheel to see if you can see exactly where the leak is. You will need to buy a flywheel puller to pull the flywheel off to get a better look and to pinpoint the leak.

https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5be4d5b35ffd2095efa9bdff/t/5bf1a09b6d2a7391b5a84730/1542561947962/KeihinCarbJetting-2015.pdf This is a good write up for dialing in the pilot jet. If the carbs are synced but one side is hitting harder, might be wise to run a leakdown test too, especially because he just bought it.

all PMs replied. Cylinders, shift star, reed cages, impeller, and trans parts sold.

Clearing out some stuff i have laying around and dont need. All prices are OBO. Let me know if you want better pictures. Pwk 33/35 carb bowl modified/welded to clear clutch arm actuator. This will prevent access to mainjet with bowl installed. Got this with a set of carbs but didnt need it with my intakes. Have never checked for leaks but will verify before selling. $20 Clean clutch cover with wear from boot and brake lever. No waterpump-$50. With billet impeller and plastic gear-$75 Welded hotrods 4mm crank. Will require rebuild and new bearings. There is some pitting on the flywheel surface from corrosion between flywheel and crank after lapping but flywheel key never slipped-see pics. $90 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk