dano3

Warshers then leakdown Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you! Yes, since it is moving the cylinder up/down it is also moving the ports up/down and with the stroke remaining the same, the port timings will be affected to a small degree. I cannot answer how critical this would be in higher power setups though. And FYI Jeff at FAST said these cylinders were setup to run a .031" base so that is what i started with.

Getting these pipes on with new O rings was a pain in the fucking ass Im trying out this vibrant hose wrap that is rated for 500* radiant. Same stuff i am using on my turbo drain hose that runs close to my manifold. And a pic of RU-1090s and shearers for someones future reference Picked up a set of padla brats for the BHQ ride. I went with the play cut in hopes they will be a little more durable. These things are really Light on DWT A5s compared to sandstars on ITP .190 wheels. Mounted up a used set of dune trackers. And Shout out to JD for hooking me up on a last minute order for light bar brackets and a DC conversion for next weekend!! You the man. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got this thing wrapped up and rode it last week. It was a bit rich on the pilot and main but it has been raining every weekend since i fired it up so have not really had a chance to fully dial it in. After waiting on the crankshaft for about another month, the one i received still had runout on the flywheel side web in almost the same manner. I did not get a chance to check total runout myself but was assured it was below spec so i slapped it in due to time constraints. Still not happy about that whole ordeal and definitely will not be giving them my business in the future. With a .031” base i was at .045” squish at the outside edge and at .050” on the inside edge on both cylinders, measured twice in each hole with the same exact results. And of course, 6psi for 10+ minutes! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

looking good! sounds like you got a good deal on the bike.

Yes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are your floats filled with fuel? Its a lot of work but you could always swap floats and needles between carbs and see if it follows to confirm its your float needles. The needle seat has an o ring on it, never had one leak but in theory it could cause an issue too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, that brass piece is the float needle seat, the actual float needle has a rubber end that seals to the seat. What does the float needle look like. Call out which one was on the carb that was leaking if you post pics. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

nice bike, i like the updated color scheme. Get this thing finished up!!

That is for the choke circuit so only choke side carb will have it. Make sure the bowl with the BB goes back on the choke side carb. Pull out your float needles (under the tab on the float frame) and post a picture, that might be your overflowing problem. Either way, since you are that far into it, you might as well replace them. Also make sure you pull all the brass out and blow carb cleaner through all the circuits (pilot, main, air/fuel screw and jet).

310s are on the rich side for your elevation and summer temps. 30 pilot will also be too big, try a 27.5 pilot. 300 might be a good place to start on the main jet but will probably be closer to a 290. You should set your float heights on the carbs as that will probably take care of your fuel overflow problem. Look up videos on youtube on how to do it. Post some pictures of your bike so everyone can see what pipes you have and anything else that may be done.

Definitely a good point. Weatherpack stuff is nice and affordable. I try to use Deutsch where possible but tooling up for them is expensive!! Thanks man! I like doing things the right way, sometimes costs a little more and takes longer but always worth it in the long run.

cool thanks. I remember seeing someone sell a kit pretty similar to yours on FB awhile back and was wondering if it was you.

really nice bike. Did you make the gusset kit or purchase it somewhere?

Yup, i use motorsport grade crimp splices and finish them off with adhesive lined heatshrink. IMO solder should never be used on wiring exposed to extreme vibration like on an ATV. The soldering creates cold joints at each end which makes the wire brittle. Here are some examples from an engine harness i built for a Mazda, same premise i used above.

Shipped my crank back today and they will be taking care of everything and getting one back to me asap. Getting the chassis ready, bypassed the key and OEM kill switch and wired in the tether. Everything was done with crimped butt splices to avoid any issues from vibration. Broke out the good stuff on the tether wiring too!! Last year i had a bunch of random bogging issues due to the 6 pin connector near the radiator which i resolved using a ziptie to clamp the connector shut. Once the bike is up and running i plan on doing a CDI relocation and building a harness using all new tefzel wire and new connectors. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, thank you. Just to clarify i purchased this crank rebuilt, and did not do any of the work. This is how i received it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the input! I have not measured runout as i need to to grab my dial indicator from work. I also have a set of vblocks i will use to support the outer bearings. When spinning the crank in the cases i could see the inside web on the flywheel side wobble when compared to the edge of the case. Thats when i measured the thickness per the cylmer (measurement using a caliper (a nice one made by central, not some HF junk). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I see, do you consider the cracks acceptable then? Curious on your opinion regarding the variation in the crank web width as well. Measurement B below varies from 2.111” to 2.126” on Flywheel side (side with cracks) and is 2.131”(+-) .002” on PTO side . Checked in 4 spots using a dial caliper. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Figured i would make a post on here after lurking for so long. Quick recap before getting into the details. Picked this bike up about 2 years ago when i was living in detroit. Bike allegedly had a fresh rebuild from a snowmobile shop up north and overall was in great shape. Picked up on a Monday night and first time really riding it was 4 days later at silver lake. Did a bunch of trail riding up in Grayling and at Mound during my time living up there. A few months later i moved down to Dallas and mainly rode trails throughout north texas and LSOK as well. Added Alba LT arms, Elkas, and a set of T6s too. This past March, after about 120 gallons of fuel through it, i had a piston skirt shatter which commenced the current build. Bought up a bunch of stuff from blackandyellowbanshee and been collecting parts for a Serval build. Current setup includes Serval cylinders with a play port from FAST, Cases port matched by FAST, 24CC pump gas domes, 35MM PWK, Shearer inframes, VF4s, chariot basket/DD lockup, and a CAMATV promod. Frame has decent powdercoat on it right now so i changed all the bearings, added chain slider kit from modquad, and cleaned up the frame by removing all the unneeded brackets. Also cleaned up the harness and added some nylon braided sheathing. This winter i will reinforce the frame and do fresh powder but i want to shake this setup down before the BHQ ride. Crankshaft is the final piece to this puzzle before assembly but the one i received has some visible runout on the inner flywheel web and after measuring the width it was way out of spec (.025" of variation on web thickness). PTO side was also out of spec based on the clymers however only varied .002" when measuring in 4 spots each 90*. Welds on the pin for the flywheel side also had visible cracks about 60% of the way around and i could catch a fingernail on them. I am suspecting it was pressed together following welding and something got fucked up or it was supported incorrectly. Working on getting this resolved from the source and then i can slap it all together.

Carbs sold.

intakes sold!

Yes they are Mikuni boots and are in good shape. The complete setup was used for about 6 months. PM for paypal if interested. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Chariot billet intakes for stock/ 28mm carbs. In great shape and include clamps/ hardware. SOLD Chariot billet reed cages for boyesen dual stage reeds. Cages are in great shape but reeds have some wear and should be replaced ($55). $75 shipped obo. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

i have a clean set of OEM carbs with TORS delete/cable+crossover, idle screw kit, and jets from 260-330M/ 27.5-30P. PM if he is interested.