dano3

Try steel-it... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

27.5 pilot should get you where you need to be with your setup.

you could be the guinea pig and try this kit. I have never been able to find much info about it being installed on a banshee and also not sure if the GPR offers adjustments for the inside/outside damping separately like a Precision unit. These GPR V1s go for pretty cheap used on ebay, if only we could get someone to make a proper mount bracket for them. http://www.hsdracing.com/Yamaha-Banshee-GPR-Steering-Std-Low-Boy-Damper-Blk-Prodview.html

Main differences are stainless steel tie rods, reuses stock dust caps and stock steel sleeves, addition of zerk fittings, and matte black powder which is higher quality compared to old ones. Alba also says the geometry has been changed but i did not measure the motion ratio on old arms to compare. I do know the tie rods are longer. New arms use the same ball joints. I will post more pics in my build thread later. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Alba just came out with an updated version of their long travel arms that are much nicer that the previous version. Make sure you get the new version if you do go with the Albas.

Bump, still looking for a spindle and the stock sleeves for A arm bushings.

Bump, still need a set or just the left side (Left Knee side while sitting on quad)

Driveline for pump gas dome recommendations/cutting. Chariot or NOSS coolhead and http://jetsrus.com/a_jets_by_carburetor_type/a_jet_kits_keihin_selection.htm for PWK jets. scroll down to PWK under Main ,Needle, and Slowjet categories for main/pilot/needle jets. Im running CEL needles on my 35 PWK with a 421 Serval.

Been out a few times since swapping in the new bushing/ clutch. Going to start playing with some weight on the lockup next time out. And waiting on tie rod ends to throw these on. Lonestar +2 stem. Precision bar clamps and pro taper contours. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I ran the tusk HD kit on a stock cylinder/stock port bike for over a year and it held up fine without any issues.

Looking for a set of straight A arm spindles in good condition. Also need a set of stock steel a arm bushing sleeves (sleeves only) in good condition. Please pm or reply with price shipped to 76210. Thank you.

Ok if you want to play safe do a leakdown and then plug chop if you have the space. What premix you running? When i ran Motul i noticed it doesnt smoke as much compared to Klotz or others.

I would run a leakdown test first too just to be sure since you didnt do the work. Do you plan to be riding it a lot during the colder weather? If not, its pretty pointless to try and get it dialed in now when you will have to do it all over again once it warms up. Maybe ask the seller what temps he jetted it at and if he actually tuned it or got a recommendation from redline.

Do you have a place to ride it local to you/your house? Im local and would be willing to help. If not, next nice weekend we get lets meet up and see if we can get it figured out.

Appreciate you taking the time to write all that up, especially on your iPhone!! Thank you.

Not to threadjack but i replaced the brass bushing a few weeks ago using the redline unit. I pressed the whole thing in from the back with a press using the flat part of a socket on the face of the gear. Once the gear was fully seated, i used the old bushing to press the new bushing slightly deeper to match the original depth. My old bushing was really worn out and there was significant play when grabbing the basket at the 3 and 9 oclock position and wiggling back and forth. After installing the new bushing with a new collar, it was too tight to spin freely so i used some 320 grit sandpaper to open the bushing up until the collar spun freely when lubricated. I then went over it with a scotch brite pad. Top pic is the old bushing vs new bushing Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just like you said from your research, sounds like pto side crank seal failed and is pulling in trans oil and burning it off hence the excessive smoke. Check trans oil to see if it is low and buy or build a leakdown tester. If it doesn’t hold pressure and there are no external leaks, spray soapy water into the transmission case vent lines to confirm before pulling the clutch cover. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

this is looking really good!

revving at idle or when riding it? if you are riding it does it eventually roll into the powerband and just feels lazy until it hits?

what do you mean it runs like dog? did you go and ride it when it was all warmed up or did you just let it idle. Like sully said and i said earlier, your pilot jet will be related to your starting and idling/ 1/4 throttle stuff. If you mean you had 30 pilots then you should drop down to a 27.5 pilot. Make sure your carbs are synced then get your pilot and ldle speed set before worrying about doing anything else with the main jet. Also if you dont plan on actually riding it during the colder months you are just wasting time because you will have to do it all over again when it warms up again. Regardless, a 27.5 pilot should be fine for both but main jet would need some adjustments for colder/warmer weather. A 270 is probably really close for your mods in warmer weather but is going to be on the lean side in 30* weather. Vitos doesnt have a good track record so if you do order any additional jets get the genuine mikuni ones. I ordered all my stock carb jets from rockymountainatv as they were the cheapest i could find at the time.

Yes. I bought this combo https://www.ebay.com/p/NGK-Spark-Plug-Cap-Ignition-Coil-Genuine-OEM-Yamaha-Banshee-Yfz350-YFZ-350/23009165500?iid=191804903147&chn=ps

No i adjusted it earlier this week and after the jam nut was loosened i rotated the upper hex bar closest to the master which the threaded rod inserts. Its a 10mm Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here is what im talking about. My lever has also been notched by the person i bought the cover from to allow more clearance. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They are not that difficult, just open up one at a time and lay everything out on a clean paper towel

Can you unbend it and adjust it down using the threaded rod under the rear master cylinder so that it sits under the cover and closer to the engine? I have a DD lockup cover with different nerfs and the amount of threads i have showing on the brake master push rod are 1/3 the amount you have. Ill get a pic.