dano3

Mine had a bunch of play between the friction fingers and clutch basket fingers so sounds like the opposite of yours. With the new frictions they are tight to the basket. When i pulled/pushed on the basket at 3 and 6 o clock position i could see the whole basket move and the frictions would slide back and forth which wore the fingers on the frictions out. Regarding the clutch bushing, im not sure but im guessing it was original so probably hundreds. I did not know to check that when putting my engine together so i didnt replace it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you dont have any air leaks your lean condition is either from a fuel supply issue/plugged jet or passage, or caused by jetting and temp changes. I would pull the carbs and really go through them and clean all the passages and make sure float height was set correctly. especially since you dont know what jets you are running. When i clean carbs i pull out all the brass and blow carb cleaner through every passage i can get too using the straw on the spray nozzle. If you have junk in your tank then drain/flush it out and fill with fresh mixed fuel. I dont run a fuel filter to ensure i dont restrict fuel flow but maybe someone else can share their experiences with them. I have seen them for sale on FAST racing so if you really think you need one then buy that one.

hard to tell but looks ok. no melting on the edge of the piston near the exhaust port right?

OK, if you have jetting to compensate for the colder temps it would be fine but first step is to determine what your jetting is lol. TORS delete kit makes everything easier for sure. And i wanted to see the pistons to see if the lower compression side has signs of pitting from being lean but sounds like they didnt.

So as i mentioned clutch would slip until around top of 4th gear. I assumed i glazed it or wore it out running the stock springs but think its a combo of running shorter stock springs and mobil 1 5w-30 that did it. Camatv told me to check the spring free length and the springs i was running were all .030-.050” shorter than the spec and look like they were ground down at some point (got a bag of springs from seller of the lockup). While i had the clutch out i noticed a lot of play in the clutch basket and found my brass bushing was worn out. This play was also chewing up the fingers on the friction plates. Pressed in a new bushing set from redline and waiting on a new clutch basket collar bushing since mine had some wear on the inside. Also replacing both thrust washers. I have a new driveline clutch i will be installing with 3hd and 3 stock springs and will run different oil rated for wet clutches. Frictions and plates were in spec for thickness but i did have friction material in the oil when i drained it. Old bushing New bushing And wear on the frictions. This allowed about .021” gap in the frictions and basket Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

New setup is good minus some clutch issues i will expand on below. I have been waiting on a new clutch basket collar so have not ridden it in a few weeks. I have to play around with YT settings more because this video is crystal clear on my computer but looks like shit once uploaded. https://youtu.be/ZAVbscg_cfw

When i got the crank back the first time it did rub on the bearing when rotating it with it installed into the bottom case. I just cant believe a reputable shop would send out something like this the first time, and then not even spend the extra time to make sure it was 100% perfect the second time around.

10-15* drop would need about 1 size larger main jet but if your jetting was already borderline too lean it would make a bigger difference, so yes. Since this is still at idle you are focused on the pilot jet and if you are running a 25 size pilot then yes it may be too lean now with your mods and colder temperature. Did you get a new gasket for your carb cap that you posted about in the other thread? That missing gasket could allow more air to enter that carb and cause that cylinder to run lean. You should really figure out what jets you are running before you go further. Pull both carbs out one by one and remove the pilot, main jet, and air screw and blow carb cleaner through the passages where the jets came out of. Record the numbers on the main and pilot jets then update this thread. Set the air screw at 1.5 turns out when you put it back in. Since it seems like you bought this bike then found out it was low on compression i would not assume anything or trust the previous owners work so best you learn now and make sure it is right. I would be interested in pictures of the pistons too if you took any before you re-ringed them and installed them again.

At least now you can rule out an airleak. Did you change anything else related to air flow (pods, starting it without filters on,etc)? What are your jetting specs? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

250 main would be pretty lean for your setup and temperature. Where do you live so we can figure out your elevation? You should be closer to a 300 main and 27.5 pilot with those mods and temperature. There are some good videos on youtube to help you get into the stock carbs, make adjustments, and check jetting. Def start with confirming your main jet and pilot jets and update us. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Setting it through the throttle is hard to get both carbs synced accurately and really isnt the right way to do it. Idle screws makes it much easier and accurate. 25 is a pilot jet size and you should be running a 27.5 pilot. Whats the main jet size. It should be a number in the high 200s or low 300s Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Start with the leakdown test again and report back. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

read the links 97screamer posted to better understand which circuits do what and how those changes affect things. It sounds like your current problem is hard starting but it pulls clean through the powerband? If thats the case you should set your idle using the idle screw kit and then make sure your carbs are synced correctly (carb sync tool from FAST racing is best). Remember that the colder it gets the more fuel/larger main jets you will need. What size main jets did you put back in after the ebay kit? Are you running 27.5 pilot jets?

i second the duncan carb setup post, that is what i used. What carbs are you using and how are you setting idle speed? Im guessing stock carbs but it would be helpful to know your jetting and temperature/elevation.

i see, but did it hold 6PSI for 6 minutes? if you put a layer of electrical tape around the carb side plugs it may help seal so that you can confirm it holds pressure and there are no other leaks. If you are positive that there are no air leaks and you are now having carb issues its possible you also have a clogged jet from old fuel or fuel sitting in the carbs too long. Clean the carbs and blow carb cleaner through all the jets and try again.

did you pull the reed cages and carb boots off when doing the top end? If so did you use new gaskets for the cages and boots? More than likely you have an air leak if temperature and jetting are the same. You should purchase or build a leakdown tester, can be done for less than $20 at home depot/lowes. In the meantime make sure your cylinder base nuts are torqued and carb boots/reed cage nuts snugged up. I applied a light coat of 1211 sealant to the carb boot and reed cage gaskets to make sure they sealed.

https://farmandsandtoys.com/ocart2/atv/yamaha/banshee/inner-clutch-hub.html?filter=47

https://youtu.be/kaBrKUaDgpk quick edit from last weekend. This place is pretty whooped out with trenches and is never maintained but its close to my house and good for a quick ride. Most of the good trails were too muddy to get into.

IMO they retain less dirt than the textured OEM hoses and wipe clean much easier.

I'm running the mishimoto kit. Great quality and fit. Only comes in red or black though.

Thank you!! So didnt get a chance to truly shake this thing down due to constant rain in TX but loaded it up for LSOK and it ran great all weekend. I was rich on the pilot still so it was kinda laggy and took a bit to get back on the pipe but overall im pleased with the new setup especially after trimming the springs on the slides (my thumb was bleeding by the end of the weekend). It was great to meet everyone and i look forward to next year! Props to DDQ on this sick pic For this trip i ran 6 stock clutch springs with the lock up and i think i toasted the clutch. Swapped back to 3hd and 3 stock springs and went riding this weekend and feels like its slipping until 4th gear. I will order another clutch and see what happens. I dropped down to a 48 pilot (ran a 50 at LSOK at similar temps) and richened up the needle and it pulls cleanly through the powerband now and is very responsive. Currently at 48P, 158M, and CEL needle at 2nd clip from bottom. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

did you remove the head and lay the solder across the entire piston inline with the piston pin? or did you bend it and insert it through the spark plug hole? if done through the plug hole did you only test one side of the piston at a time and inline with the pin? post a picture of how you did it if needed.

how are you testing the squish and what thickness solder are you using? is this just a stock cylinder 4 mil setup?

You can cut them out too but i feel like it would be harder and leave your new welding surface uneven unless you are really careful with a cutoff wheel. This is what i was talking about. Drill it out until you cut through the weld and can slide the new inserts in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If i were you i would just get the jds inserts and weld in the one you need for a quick fix but honestly it would be better to just weld all 4 in since you will already have the welder and other tools out. You can drill out the old ones using a stepped drill bit. Tylers SE build thread had some good pictures of what’s required. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk