SandBastard

Thats saweet guys thanks. Isnt that a four cyl in the picture of the blue Bansh from therail? If it is, do they move the clutch and drive or just the mag waaayyy out? Ill be looking at all the websites tonight. Holy crapballs it is a a four cyl .....Injected too nice.

If the rear sprocket is a year old, try turning it around. (or just replace it) I had the same prob until I started adjusting my chain with the rear shock removed. Take out the rear shock and adjust the chain with the swinger at the point where the chain is tightest. Just a little slack.

Does anyone know where I could find some pics of a three cyl bansh for a freind who cant believe they exist?

When I got my T-6s the jets that came with them were way lean. I also got the 2into1 intake and wound up running a 340 main jet with the stock needle I think in the middle position. Everyone told me the dynojet needles were just blaster needles and to use the stockers they seem to work about the same. My elevation is sea level.

you dont have to buy a whole new crank, you can have your original crank checked and trued by a qualified mechanic who will tell you if it needs repair. If its ok just have it trued and welded, probably only 75 dollars if you bring him just the crank. I took mine out to have it welded and it had begun to separate. I only had pipes and intake at the time. welding the crank is cheap insurance against possible case damage, but not really neccesary on a stock or close to stock bike.

30-40 seconds isnt enough time for mine to warm up either. 2 minutes sounds pretty good. I let mine warm up while I put my helmet and gloves on and sometimes it still needs more time. If you start riding b4 its warm (running cleanly) just go easy on it till its warm or else you'll cold seize it. Bad news.

Thanks for the replies gents. Think the compressed air might be easiest. But was hoping for something clean looking also. Stay out of the sand? You make it sound like theres someplace else to ride.

If I cut an appropriately sized peice of rubber or silicone hose to fit between the top of the head and the bottom of the nut part of the plugs, will it interfere with plug heat tranfer? I want to do this to keep sand from getting between the plugs and the head and falling into the cylinder when I remove the plugs. Good idea? Bad idea? Any ideas? Thank you for reading and for any comments. P.S. its a chozen cool head so the plugs are installed into a 1/4 in. deep hole.Thanks.

Great website Itsaripper, now that site is one of my favorites along with the whole 2-stroke webring.Thanks everyone for all the input.

Just you and me over here riding on the Oregon dunes eehsnab2. Medford Or.

Thanks fixitrod. I'll have to check out that website. Wife says I'm becoming a banshee info junky. Maybe. A great book I have referred to many times lists: minimum clearance for a 175cc cylinder as .8mm. The book basically states the reason for the squish band is, at the very outer limits of the combustion chamber exists the "end gases" that self ignite and cause detonation. These end gases are heated by the surrounding metal of the piston crown and combustion chamber and also by the heat radiating from the advancing spark ignited flame. if the spark flame reaches the outer edges of the combustion chamber quickly enough, these end gases will not have time to heat up sufficiently to self-ignite and precipitate detonation. Herein lies the key to prevent detonation - keep the end gases cool and reduce the time rquired for the combustion flame to reach the end gases. therefore they suggest making the combustion chamber as small as possible. sorry for the novel. The books title is "Two Stroke Performance Tuning" by A. Graham Bell. Werd! Awesome book!!!!! Wife typed that thanks babe.

That sounds like a terribly inaccurate way to check anything.

www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html ( The force is strong with this one, this guy is a super stud ) Or www.off-road.com/dirtbike/tech/starting/ ( This site is also incredibly informative )

Dude proly an easy fix. It might the Parking Brake (wiggle the clutch lever and make sure the small switch isnt stuck. the switch keeps you from riding with the PB on)

Sorry for the double post. I talked to Chris and he said no problem.I also talked to luke (forgot last name) at cycle quest and he said he thought it would be ok as long as I dont let a bunch of carbon build up in the combustion chamber. I just dont want to take any chances. Boonman, the rest of my motor is fairly tame the timing is only advanced three deg. but when I ride I hold full throttle for extended periods of time in top gear at the dunes, and Ive heard high RPM motors need more clearance any thoughts? sorry for the long reply. Thanks again.