Lowroll

Will do. I have a buddy with a ton of work done on a 426ex that might want to make some pulls as well. I'm going to see if he's cool with me bringing someone else first Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

We were talking about getting her on the dyno in like 2 weeks I think? Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

So I got her back together, many texts between myself and Justin as I went and the numbers are finally where they need to be. Gained 10 pounds of compression, passed a leak down, got her back together and it not only starts and sounds better, it runs better. Pulls much harder in the higher gears. Major improvement Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

This. Without bhq, I'd think I was fast and running good.

He did make right with me though, so cant knock that. Wish I had skipped all the crap though. So far, he has not said anything to me about the crank issue.....but a Hot Rods crank dropped in and all my issues went away

Good luck with that crank Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Where is that style extractor found? Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Is this any count? They have a store near me and it's in stock. For $20 I'll get it vs taking a chance http://m.advanceautoparts.com/mt/shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-stud-remover-ac837/9020069-P?un_jtt_v_cookiecheck=on&un_jtt_redirect Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

The question is, should I? I'm worried about pulling the studs as far as I know they've never been out. Don't want to break one off Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

I guess the next question is, is there any allowable variance between the 2 cylinders or is 2-3 thousandths unacceptable. Not looking to cut a corner, trying to understand what is and isn't okay. I have no issue lapping the deck .002 Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Okay sleeper, fair enough. I rechecked using that method this morning and my numbers did change. The left cylinder shows .044 on both side, the right cylinder shows .042 and .041 Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Since I'm I'm no rush, I'm going to play with things like that, see if anything changes and note any differences. I'll start with domes, then pistons, then base gaskets. Why not try. If I can get them right, I might finish assembling it Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

So when would you be available to lend a hand with this type of thing? Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

If the deck height needs altered, do you have any way to do so? I can definitely haul it down in pieces if I have to

IF cylinder height is my issue, I'll consider hand lapping the jugs to correct the height. My squish is closer atleast! I am making progress Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

It's a Noss machine Coolhead. Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

I'm determined to make it right. I'm not going to half ass this. Just blows that none of it is lining up. As stated earlier in this thread when I mentioned just sending it off to be built by someone, and somebody said that builders don't typically check these things. So for all I know I might have paid someone and still had this issue. Right? Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

I think Justin is closest to me and he's 2.5 hours away. I might just have to pack it all up and go down. I'm going to swap domes, check it again, then pull jugs and measure overall lengths of cylinders Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

My calipers are too large to fit inside the cylinders so I can't accurately measure them. Only one person has had the cylinders and he did not deck them. I do know that Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Okay, I have the case halves together, base gaskets in, cylinders and head on. Now I have no o rings in the head for mockup so I don't accidentally damage any, running the .95 step 22cc domes Justin had cut for me (want to run a 50/50 fuel mix) so I compensated for the tighter dome with a .032 base gasket. I snagged the head on the cylinders before I torqued the jugs down so that those 3 pieces would be square to one another. I then checked the squish from left to right if you're sitting in the bike, checked both sides of each piston over top of the wrist pin. Squish reads as follows .047 .048 .044 .043 I know the one rings will bring it up roughly 3-4 thou. With that said should I run with those numbers or swap to the .115 step 23cc domes and try again? Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Jeff got me taken care of, and he told me to go max load and tz, even on stock gears. He called crank works to confirm that it was in fact okay to do in my situation. I'm very excited to be getting back to work on my engine, also thanks to Justin for getting me gaskets and domes. Going to try to run the ones he set me up with due to being 22s vs 23

Surprised nobody mentioned it, but everyone says to not run a boost bottle, they're a gimmick part that will just lead you to cracked intake boots. go back to stock crossover tube

That's always been my understanding based on my readings. Perhaps not always the case?

Man I wish I could find a mint banshee for a price like that. I really want to build a pretty stock bike for the trails. Glad to see nothing is really torn up inside that case Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

This is the cut I'm running. Done with a cutoff wheel, took no time at all with a sander to clean it up. I wanted to leave the fronts a little longer towards the front but these plastics had been rolled by the previous owner and they were uneven unfortunately.