Lowroll

It's my understanding that if you're less than half a turn out on the air screw, you need a larger pilot, if you're more than 2 out, go smaller. My bike will rev in idle and sounds great, but when riding it, I notice a tiny dip in the throttle just off idle, I richened the pilots a half turn, and the needle 1 clip and it got much better. Then I got my carbs synced at idle, currently 1 turn out on air, adjusted idle til I got 5kg/h per carb and its much much better. in second at low speeds it'll still pick right up and haul ass. I might go to the lowest needle clip and see if it helps any. after that ill chop some plugs to diagnose my mains

I'm interested in this, but im not sure i'll make the busco trip now. I might be working that weekend what day are you going down?

Rocky mountain has pretty fast shipping, standard 3 day and for a little more you can get 2 day. I would get one size pilot larger than what you think you need also. I bought jets one size each way of what I expected to run so I could tweak. I too have a very similar off idle bog that I have not yet found but my setup is much different. I went 3/4 turn in on my air screws and cleaned it up a bit but much like you, I have enough bog to kill its wheelie torque. Im going to play with needles tonight

do a leakdown for sure. I did mine and had a small leak, absolutely could not find the leak, so I rode it. Had massive overheating issues, turns out my dome O-rings had slipped out of the groove and compression was leaking into my cool head. Got new rings, rebuilt the head and she held pressure for 17 minutes without any leaking before I finally let it off. I feel much more confident this time. Going to ride it tonight to see if all my overheating issues are solved too

Good luck, i'd check ebay. why not just run the proflow plate? When I first got my shee and was trying to fix it as it should have been from yamaha I tried to find one but everyone was asking a decent amount for them

So, here's where its at now. It fires right up on the dyna coil but runs awful. its loping from cylinder to cylinder. it smokes out the left for a second, then stops and smokes out the left and back and forth. backfires when revved. Sent Kan a video of it and he thinks its the stator failing. Pulled the flywheel and found the green source wire on the stator with a rub mark where it had come out and touched the flywheel. I believe she grounded out as I now show resistance from source to ground which he said should be open line. Local yamaha dealer has a stator on the shelf that im going to get in the morning and try out

Also, showing 130 psi per cylinder on fresh bore and rings so compression is good, didn't hold pressure on leak down but it did pass the less than 1 psi per minute test. I sprayed the whole engine down case halves and all and couldn't find it. I think it might have been my tester itself leaking.

So tonight I finished putting my 98 shee back together after a 4 mil build and it wont run. ignition is all stock except for being +5 timing. if I choke the carbs, it tried to start one time. Take them off choke and it tries to start, one time. So I checked spark and its there on both cylinders, plugs are new and gapped .028. I swapped my stock coil for my dyna coil and it immediately fired up but sounds as if its alternating cylinders and it idles rough and then backfires, went back to stock coil and it wont run again, but still has spark. looking for suggestions. pick up gap is set at .018 so that shouldn't be an issue, ran great before it was taken apart. I have deleted the parking brake since it last ran. No idea if that would hurt it or not. mods are HJR 4 mil mx hardcore port cool head with custom domes chariot reed cages chariot intakes Keihin 35mm Pwk's CEL needles, 152 mains, 50 pilots, 1.5 out on air screw FMF SSt pipes and power core 2 silencers +5 timing first gallon of fuel is 93 octane mixed 20:1 with yamalube 2r I'm hoping it's something simple that I'm overlooking

ceramic ball and pancake bearing FTW

I would be inclined to say the crank seal is leaking, Check the trans fluid and see if its low. I just replaced mine for the same reason only my whole seal let go and it was smoking very very heavy out the right pipe and fouling up the plug

So do you think I should even bother with the 1 piece axle nut? I mean, its here. I was planning to just run it. Like I said, my outer axle nut right now is borderline destroyed. open end wrench wont fit it because of how badly the last guy tore it up. He destroyed most of the bike really. I'm doing my best to fix it all

We just backed them off, cleaned the threads, applied locktite and wrenched them. The previous owner tore them up, looks like he used a chisel to drive them loose and may have got it out of round, might be why they wont stay.

I just bought one from cascade. It is a modquad part. Haven't used it yet but the above post makes me wonder if I should even try. My stock axle nuts absolutely will not stay tight after a ride

I use my kill switch as my key. We traced the wires and tied into them behind the radiator on the left hand side. tied into a black and black with white IIRC

I just went through this. Ball welded to adjuster, rod welded to arm. I flipped the engine and split my cases. Once the cases are split you can get to the clutch arm and get it out. We had no issues breaking the two apart and getting them out, I ordered a new ceramic ball, rod and actuator from TDR and I thin k my pancake bearing was from cascade. I cant remember, but the new setup is sweet. Now when I come off the drag strip I can pull in on my clutch worry free