Rage_kage

I just stumbled apon it, I'm shipping some actions and barrel's out there now just to test the waters

Is it a freezing process or a heating process?

Has anyone tried this yet? I'm a bit interested if it actually holds up like they say CryoHeat Metal Treatment provides huge performance gains to metal objects without changing dimensional shape or color. Completely stress relieving the metal; the metal is stronger, more wear resistant, holds greater dimensional strength and capable of dissipating thermal temperatures much easier. 2 to 4 times the service life and 20 – 50% stronger metal. CryoHeat guarantees about a 50% savings or more after the treatment; saving in service, repair and replacement of metal parts. Here are the benefits of the CryoHeat Metal Treatment to engine and transmission parts: Dimensional stability for moving or static parts Strengthening from 18% - 50% 2.5 times or greater wear resistance Removes stresses in metal from manufacturing and heat treating Dissipating of heat faster and more evenly No more hot-spots in metal Engine break in period is greatly reduced More horse-power and higher RPM's Increased value of builders warranties Greatly expanding cost savings

What I need, 12mm tie rod tubes. I bought the HD tie rod ends not knowing they were 2mm larger than stock. American star isn't picking up or responding to my email. So is there any site sponsors or any other businesses that makes the tubes?

That's basically what's happening to mine. It either hits there or if I twist it the hose hits the flange section of the pipe

Do you got a picture of how you ran yours?

Am I missing something here? My water pump hose is hitting my pipe, is my routing wrong or is it the cheap hoses I bought?

I'm experimenting with the cans, its regular powder coat. And yes I agree on the boost bottle, there is to many options and I'm not sure which one to take yet lol

This is how I bought it July 4 2014, at the end of summer it was at 100 psi per cylinder, wiring harness was melted from previous over putting a turbo heater on the motor and forgetting about it, and was a all around turd due to the improper jetting. So after a few hundred dollars later I built a hopefully bullet proof motor. > redline shaved the head > cylinders bored to 64.50 > wiesco top end kit > stock porting just cleaned up > carbon tech lt reeds > transmission was disassembled and inspected my myself, replacing parts worn out of spec. Along with fresh bearings. > F.A.S.T hooked me up with a easy spring and a modded shift shaft > I did the shift star mod myself > billet clutch basket with mattoon backing plate I added > drive line standard HD clutch kit > mattoon lockout cover for future plans > mattoon adjustable timing plate > billet water pump cover, impellar and vent block off > FMF fatty's with shortened cans The local powder coater did all my parts white after repairs where done to the cracks, I went with a cfm airbox for the stock carbs, alba long travel-standard arms, all new pivot works bearings, and a water proof, shock proof, dust proof wiring harness And that's what she looks like almost completely done Its a fun build even though my bank account says other wise

I'm redoing mine, I had the frame blasted and found cracks easily once it was stripped...

Its gonna run...eventually

Flywheel key, and its slot. I've seen some people lap the shaft as well

Does anyone have a decent set of red tank and rad covers they want to part with? No zip tie repairs, heavy sun fading or heavy scratches or gouges.

I had mine done locally just to save on shipping, if you do take them some where and no matter how many quad parts the guy said he has done make sure to go over what gets masked.

Was that guy running a stock clutch or lockout?

Has anyone got one of these on there bikes? I'm curious on how far that cover sticks out and if it interferes with the brake pedal at all

I ordered the works from fast, hell of a nice guy.

Hey guys, I'm reassembling my motor and I came across a issue adjusting the arm to the shift star, it has a lot of up and down play and I can't get full upward adjustment from the eccentric bolt. I replaced the eccentric bolt because it had wear grooves in it and tried again still not getting all the upward adjustment. Removed the shift shaft and popped the spring off and it looks like there is grooves, I don't have a new one to compare nor seen a new one .

I got plenty of toe tags, I just never get to use them. [emoji20]

Congrats man!

My silverado

No broken bones, just a pinched spine

My buddy survived that. Still fully functional.

Its a sick rush but gravity normally gets the best of you

^hurts a little worse than a tree.