Rage_kage

Q#29:How do I test the Ignition Coil on the Stator? A#29:Using an ohmmeter and the specifications above, check the resistance between the red wire and the green wire on the four-wire harness coming out of the stator. Find the four-wire connector (usually white), at the front of the airbox on the right-hand side of the bike. Depress the little plastic retainer on the connector and disconnect the two connector halves. Take a look at the wire on the connector towards the front of the bike, it should run under the carbs and into the left-hand side of the motor’s bottom end. That is the connector you want to test. On the back side of the connector where the wires enter, locate the red and green wires. Set your ohmmeter to test resistance (and the correct range if you need to), and touch one test lead to the terminal on the red wire, and the other test lead on the terminal on the green wire. Your ohmmeter should read between 13.7 and 20.5 Ohms, so if it reads 15 Ohms your stator ignition coil is OK, if it reads “- -“ or infinite Ohms or anything less than 13.7 or more than 20.5, then the stator is shot. Q#30:How do I test the Pickup Coil? A#30:Same as above Q#29, except you will be testing between the red & white wire and the green & white wire in the four-wire connector. You should have between 94 and 140 Ohms between these two wires. An important note is that the pickup coil needs to have the correct gap between it and the flywheel tabs. To check the gap, rotate the flywheel until one of the tabs on the outside lines up with the pickup coil (either by hand or by moving the kickstarter slowly). The gap should be between 0.015" and 0.020", if you need to adjust the gap loosen the two small phillips-head screws where the pickup coil mounts and relocate it, then retighten the screws. If you’re in a real bind, you can use a matchbook cover to check the gap, it’s about the same thickness. Just like adjusting valves on a 4-stroke motor, the feeler gauge should slide easily into the gap with just the slightest drag, it should not be a bitch to cram the feeler gauge in there (that’s too tight!) and you shouldn’t be able to bounce the feeler gauge back and forth inside the gap (too loose!). http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/133650-banshee-electrical-faq/ all you need to know about electrical is in that thread^

ill just throw this out there because i did it on mine, with a +2 +1 front end made the wheel base +1" longer, so if you wanted to keep a stock wheel base you would have to shorten up the swingarm, I am not saying that 1" killed my maneuverability in the woods but it was easy to keep my front end light shortening the swingarm. thats up to you though. its also a good time to bring the swing arm and carrier into the 21st century.

when where they last serviced?

Just a question, do you know how much extra wheel travel is gained from running a lt setup?

Can I get a measurement eyelet to eyelet on the shocks?

Ronnie mac suggests a good old hand saw.

What are the tire condoms for?

I hope i can hit a few gncc's this year, i just cant travel to everyone like them dedicated people out there

Let's hear about it Bennett...

rattle can front wheels and a tear in the seat. would not ride.

Bump, Bennett needs money for goat food asap.

AT&T doesn't send service to the underside of boulders

Of course not. Looks like I'll be getting crafty again.

They have there own seperate bracket?

I am switching from cut front fenders to full fenders. I don't have the fender stays yet (if you have a set pm me) and I'm trying to figure out where it mounts to the frame, so I can get appropriate hardware. If someone can help me out and snap a few pictures that would be awesome

Kinda looks like a old dmc graphics kit but they normally put there logo somewhere on the vinyl

Ttt

For sale brand new OEM 1994 yamaha plastic for sale.<br /> OEM rear fender<br /> OEM front fender<br /> OEM radiator cover<br /> OEM fuel tank cover<br /> OEM headlight front and rear covers<br /> OEM seat cover<br /> OEM key switch<br /> All these parts were bought brand new before being discontinued front and rear purple fender, purple headlight covers, yellow gas and radiator cover. I will be asking $1000 for everything, these parts were stored inside A/C so no major blems, cracks, just minor shelf scratches from being moved in original box. <br /> If you have any questions please contact me at 4802050951 This guy is on bluetrax he's got mint purple plastics, buckets ect

I'm looking for a anti vibe stem, doesn't need to have clamps or bushings. +2 perfered but its not a deal breaker if they are stock height.

CFM aluminum airbox, powder coated white, Slight rubbing on bottom of box. > uni foam pods included > outerwears cover included > stock carb reducers included > $110 shipped Stock milled head by redline > .015" removed > $40 shipped Stock taillight > needs bulb & some elbow grease > $10 shipped

I went over my frame and 3 things that caught my attention was the steering stop gets bent forward over time, the stock swingarms crack and I had cracks around the rear shock mount on the frame. If you really wanted to go over it with a fine tooth comb buy some crack developer after you get it stripped

I'll make you a deal on it since I know your dying to get one

3x3 with polyurethane end caps

I just have a general question on air filter size. I'm having space constraints trying to find a air filter that won't hit my silencers. I got these pods pretty cheap and the fitment is good. Will these hinder performance being so small? I don't have a crazy motor, stock bore, stock stroke and a trail port.

I doubt this will help due to my lack of experience with other ported Banshee motors but I felt it was time to get alittle more out of my motor so I sent mine to redline and after tuning it in I was pleased with how it runs, suited my needs just fine, and his price is a added bonus.