Rage_kage

I have a stock stroke crank recently rebuilt & welded and trued by sleeper06, I never got to run it, mainly kept it as a back up for the race season. Keyways are in good shape. $275 obo, Buyer pays shipping & PayPal fees Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

Cable sold Intake, carbs and jet kits still adviliable. Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

Pm me for cash price Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

Not sure to be honest. I ran it with a chariot throttle and those 28mm mikuni's and didn't have a issue Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

(2) Mikuni TM28 flatslide, smooth bore carbs. $175 (I will put what ever main/pilot combination in that you want as a start at) Terry cable braided stainless dual gasser cable, used once. $60 shipped Chariot 26-30mm intake with built in cross over, boots are in like new condition. No cracks or dry rot. $120 shipped Mikuni jet kit, 4/042 style mains. Vm22/210 style pilots. Will even include ultra cool cases $200 shipped. Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

I just held 7 psi for 30 minutes... Sent from my phone

I get water everywhere lol, sometimes in the carbs, some times in the stator cover Sent from my phone

I should take stock in NGK, so far I've changed them 10+ times this summer before every race, and mid race if I end up sucking water at a creek section... Sent from my phone

Always a Debbie downer... But your probably right Sent from my phone

Brand new oem coil, brand new oem plug caps where put on it. Problem didn't change. Sent from my phone

I don't run stock carbs, and the problem doesn't move when I switch the plug wire Sent from my phone

I'm having some problems with my electrical system I think, if I push the throttle smooth and slow it will fire on both cylinders, if I stab the throttle the left cylinder cuts out and the right side screams. Starts fine, idles fine, rev's in neutral fine I synced my carbs properly. Pickup gap is set at .15 My electrical readings where: Stator 17.7 ohms - ignition coil 115.3 ohms - pickup coil .40 ohms - lighting coil Coil .50 ohms - primary 25500 ohms - secondary Specs from hq page Stator 13.7-20.5 ohms - ignition coil 94-140 ohms pickup coil .26-3.8 - lighting coil Coil .28-.38 ohms - primary coil 4700-7100 ohms - secondary coil Changed the coil and the problem is still present, I was hoping someone would recognize this problem and maybe point me in the right direction weather it's a cdi going out, stator failing under load, bad pickup coil Sent from my phone

Yeah, being in Australia kinda put alittle limitation on things...but both will work, I just wanted to chime in for a company not to many people know about Sent from my phone

They use a oem reed cage, I think $94 usd did both cylinders, very nice people to talk to Sent from my phone

ISO 2 into 1 intake WITH a stock airbox adapter (trinity) and some sort of fuel metering device to help feed my hungry beast. intake doesn't have to be trinity, just mainly looking for the airbox adapter with a 2 into 1 intake of any brand. shoot me a pm if you have something of interest.

Just throwing this out there, look up Carbon Tech for reeds, they use a stock cage and they come in high or low tension, depends how you want your motor to act. I use there low tension reeds and it was a noticeable change over stock... http://www.carbontech.com/

Much appreciated brandon Sent from my phone

I'll just make a ground strap to be safe. Another thing I noticed is I'm running a deutch connector harness with gold plated pins(mostly used in ECM connections) and sockets. red wire off the stator is arching as well Sent from my phone

I'll give mull a call and pick his brain Sent from my phone

Its almost like the crankshaft is the ground and the stator is shorting out through it, I had a decent amount of water trapped in there after a race... Sent from my phone

Has anybody ever ran into there flywheel arching/gouging to the tapered section of the crankshaft? I'm just trying to figure out what's causing it on mine Sent from my phone

Where they called tire blocks? Sent from my phone

I know you can run lower pressures in the tires with them and not bang up your rims. The beadlocks are probably just to keep the tire from spinning on the rim Sent from my phone

I was hoping someone has already done it... it's easy to find how to do it, not easy to find aftermath feedback Sent from my phone

Has anyone else looked into the cheap mans tire ball setup (barbie balls)? I personally haven't talked with anyone who ran them, maybe someone here has? just looking for some feedback.