Atomic Monkey

Hey, with the "air box mod" and being that this guy's air screws are turned all the way in, wouldn't that be lean on the pilot? I totally agree on stepping up the mains, I just don't understand how it affects the off idle issue this person described???

Thanks for the input guys! I'm getting ready to tear the top end down again, and if I was going to swap, now would be the time.

Over the last year I put together a 4 mil for the trail with Pro Circuit pipes, and stock cyls I ported myself. Curious what the guys with experience have to say about switching to the larger PJ34 carbs, or if I should just keep with the stockers???

Same here, thanks for the reminder Tricked.

I'll take an XL and a 2XL T-shirts, and a 3XL hoodie

My '92 wr... no "Boyesens". Now since I'm fairly new to the tech side of 2 strokes and since we're talking intakes... what's the deal with the case induced engines?

I'm running the 11882 pistons with no issues in a +4, 115 rod, 65mm bore engine. These are the pistons that were made so a person could use the stock head with a thicker base gasket instead of the spacer. So anyway there's that option... and with my build the cylinders are ported to use the stock thickness base gaskets with custom domes. Driveline Performance helped me out a lot with this setup, thanks guys!

Got a Pro Design with 18cc domes

I used to run type F, but got tired of changing it all the time. After doing doing a little research I picked up some tractor hydraulic oil made for transmissions and wet clutches. Its super cheap, and seems to be holding up a lot better than the type F. Got 4 rides totalling around 300 miles, there were a few hill climbs, some tight twisty stuff, and some asphalt launches. Never had any slippage, and the stuff still looks like it did the day I put it in. Anyway, that's my $.02

Just making the forks ride though the drum... the burr removal, polishing the spots the forks hung on, and turning the material off the drum so the detent lever didn't ride up on it

It is, Camatv mounted a bearing on a lever he had laying around. I compared it to the lever that was originally in the engine and didn't see any issues with either.

It was the actual lever for the shift detent roller that was hitting. It would deflect as the wheel rode up the star and ride the drum. Before I spun material off the drum, it had worn the pattern of the star into it. Because the detent lever (nothing to do with the shift lever) was hanging up on the drum, and the wheel didn't bottom in the star, it allowed the drum to freewheel back and forth a small distance. Before my last rebuild I had an issue with not always being able to upshift at high rpms. What I'm thinking is with the freeplay in the drum, the shift forks weren't in the right position and that maybe the engine load forced the forks and drum back to the gear I was in... mostly happened with 2-3 and 3-4. I can't remember exactly where on the drum the forks ride in those gears, but there was quite abit of work that I did to remove burrs and polish the drum to get the forks to ride through the gears with no snags. Essentually I'm trying to pinpoint where the upshift issue was coming from. There were many things done during the rebuild... Camatv did the Pro-Mod, there's a bearing from Mull on the detent, and I was in there tweeking on things too.

See the step in the frum behind the star? That's where I removed material to keep the lever from riding on the drum.

Has anyone else ever had a problem with the detent lever riding on the shift drum and not letting the wheel bottom in the star? On mine there was grooves worn into the drum because of so much slop in the detent lever. I spun some material off the drum in a lathe til there wasn't anymore contact between the lever and drum. Otherwise when the lever was up on the drum it allowed for quite abit of freeplay.

To be honest... they're relatively pointless. I bought a set and like everyone told me when I was talking about them... the only semi useful item was the exhaust template, and all I used it for was the top radius of the port. There's a lot of information about porting out there, it takes some digging, but its there. I have a thread about porting with the templates here on the HQ if ya do a search. What I found was there's a lot more to porting than just slapping some templates in and carving away. I would sell you what I have, but I altered the templates for my setup.

Time to setup for ice so we can throw down on the drag race rematch!

S.Y.P. Pipes. Pipes so badazz you'll shit your pants

I'm just putting this out there because I just went to the Hotrods L/R 4mil from a shortrod 4mil, and I noticed a big change in the amount of vibration. I just figured its a balance issue with the crank, longer rods, and the pistons. I know for sure the crank was never balanced with the pistons I got. Can't say for sure if they even balance the crank and rod assembly.

I have the calipers and master off of my 97 if you need anything. As far as the YFZ450 brake setup goes, its the later models that got the better master (forget the year they started), otherwise besides the lever and brake switch, the master is the same as the Banshee.

No benefit. Twisted pair is almost exclusive to the communications and IT industries. The shielding in the wire you're talking about is to prevent or reduce EMI. Ignition coils don't care about EMI, they produce it... which is the reason for resistor plugs. Now if your pickup wires were bundled with your spark plug wires. There would be a potential for EMI to produce false triggers, and that would require the pickup wires to be shielded to prevent misfire. That's about the only scenerio, aside from adding electronics, that would require shielded wire on a Banshee.

Lol! My registration says I titled a 1997 Yamaha Banchee.

Got a used Vito's 4mm 110 rod crank and spacer setup in good shape, and a good Vito's Superstock piston 64.42 stamped in the top.

I like the colors for ice! Nice

You wouldn't need to prime the cooling system. There's a vent tube that goes from the head to the radiator that helps purge the air out

Didn't say a coolant leak is causing vibration, just getting the picture all together because of 2 different concerns. How far apart did you have it? Did you pull the flywheel, take the clutch apart?