Atomic Monkey

It meant to try advancing with the stock plate to get a result because it sounds like the op is ready to try things. If the result is not what is expected... as in what you have at that point, there is no money wasted. As far as a budget goes... is there such a thing when it comes to working on these things? Lol!

Wobble the holes on the stock plate, plenty of threads about it. Save your money for the next rebuild if what you have is not enough....

Posting up another link to a short vid that a buddy took while running around the yard after rejetting... the end makes me laugh... Braap! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gYAfwYqN8go

I got a set of yellow fronts and rears uncut from a '97, got the red rad cover too. They were on my quad when I got it, they had been rattle canned black, but the guy I got it from stripped all the paint off. If you're interested, shoot me a pm

You will notice the difference with the newer master simply because of the amount fluid dispacement. When I originally switched from stock to the 450 master, it was from an '07, and I did it just to get the brake light switch and there was no difference in the way the brakes felt.

I use that same method with bearings... pipe tacked to the race, and the right nut for the slide-hammer welded on the other side. Works great on a shaft, or when there's no room for a blind puller

I Feel the need to give credit where due... Sleeper06 and Lane, thank you for the clues with port timing. Especially Lane from Driveline Performance that worked with me on the timings for the 11882 pistons. A shoutout to Bansheehp for the domes... good cut and spot on for compression with being fed only measurments. CamATV for his spotless "Pro-Mod" on the trans... even all pumped I get the gear... up or down! Mull Engineering for getting us through a rough spot, Brandon pulls through and is a "fountain" of information (honestly I'm very impressed with Brandon.... he knows too much about everything!), 87sheerips for the SLP pipes! F.A.S.T. Racing, they have the parts! I know this is controversial... but Ray minkia38@gmail.com supplied the pistons and a few other parts with no issues. I hope the pistons catch on! To the individuals on the HQ: "Abe" is an excellent seller, got my dual piston front calipers from him! So is the "Mailman", got my rebuilt rear shock from him! The "springer" gave me an awesome deal on a +4 LSR swingarm and axle! "Sick421" got me a nice set of works shocks for the frontend, thanks... they're better than what I expected! "fox_forma" for the carbs! And "Burke" for the Clark tank and front plastic! I only wish I could contribute more!

Almost a year later as stuff was being deleted, I came across the video we took on the first start and decided to link it here,https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vijPvtwVW_A

What I would do is find a steering wheel puller and then drill and tap bolt holes as close as possible to the inside of the hub on the flywheel. Might be able to reuse the flywheel using this method as it won't flex the steel the magnets are mounted to. The issue with the flywheel moving to the one side is probably because its climbing the bevel gears on the PTO side. The amount of walk is most likely thrust load related wear on the crank bearings.

What other mods, and list what isn't OEM.

What kinda shape you expecting??? I have some tenderly used Pro Circuits.... na, all I gots to say is they function, but they be ugly U-G-L-Y. As a selling point, one pipe was steam cleaned on the inside! :-)

I like to keep it simple and try not hacking the stock stuff. I kept all my DC circuits separate. Ran an extra wire for the floated ground. Jumped into the light switch wiring at the connector, and ran seperate grounds for all the DC coming back to a small battery. I've heard of people having problems with grounding to the frame etc... In my case especially since I'm still running an AC circuit as well as DC.

Sounds good, I'll get the bearings dropped out and post up a couple pics of that crack in the next day or so.

What would you want for them? Is there a good kick start spring? That's what started all this. Anyways, looks like that broken piece of spring made it through the gears at least once.Also, might be able to salvage the case. Need to pull the bearing to see where the crack is... hoping its "superficial"

Where's the best spot to tie the front reservoirs to the frame with stock plastics?

Trenching shouldn't be a big deal, just need the clearance for the rod end. But I might just have someone else do the head because I can't find the mandrel I made when I did the head on my WR... this is turning into a nightmare of a project!

Found a case half on ebay for over $100. Seems a little much to me... May have to take a different approach, got an old air cooled YZ250 engine that needs a clutch, and if its the right series... a DT stator and flywheel will give me a lighting coil. Still would rather stick with the Blaster engine since I bought the crank... so anyone???

Don't need matching cases... cool! Just need the right side then. The case I have has a stress crack by the main bearing. Looks like the crank was rebuilt at some point by a butcher... I picked up a 4mm Hotrods crank, and then found the crack.

Anyone got some Blaster cases laying around they want to get rid of? Got a "sweet deal" on a blaster for my kid, turns out the engine is pretty much F.U.B.A.R.

^^^He's right. I just looked at the pic... pretty strange they'd do it like that! Looks like the same rectifier I'm using... aside from the yellow wire next to the red. Kinda threw me off saying it grounded through the casing...

Simply... no. You need a single phase regulator.

Sounds like you have a 3 phase regulator....

Pm sent

Good question, only time I've ever soaked clutches is if they're new. Otherwise I've forgotten all about what's better between atf and motor oils! I'm running tractor hydro fluid... best shit ever!

No kidding... so the Banshee actually has its own model round carrier??? Guess I didn't expect that, did they make them to fit the stock size tube?