Atomic Monkey
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Everything posted by Atomic Monkey
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I planned on doing a gasket match, cleaning up the transfers, opening up any choke points, and possibly tweaking the roof angles. If I open them up at all will probably depend on how big the windows get after degreeing the setup with new pistons. I'll have to check out that HJR intake! -
And unported for a reference
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Here's a couple pics. I still have a little work to do, going to flatten the floor, and blend the area around the boost a little better. Also need to raise the roof a little to clear the top reed stop.
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- cylinder porting
- racelogic template
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I skipped the pencil grinders for the intake, and used a 1/4" with extended bits, only used the small flame and a straight. I probably won't drop the exhaust because what "Registered User" was talking about.
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Tonight I got 1 intake done. I used the template, but mostly left the center section width alone. I knife edged the center, and opened the rest of the intake to both compliment the reed flow, and the draft of the crank. Not sure if this is the right approach. I have two seperate concerns with dropping the exhaust floor. 1- if I do, the overlap of the skirt @ TDC is very small (around 3.25mm). If I don't, maybe it could cause unwanted turbulance??? Will post a pic of the progress later
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I'll drop to cylinders off at Millenium Monday, they need to be bored out. I'm getting the pistons through them as well. I'll spend the weekend cleaning up whatever I can so when they come back it'll be mostly adjusting the ports and blending.
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I plan to work the transfers. I've got a straight and 90° pencil grinders with all the bits. I want to pick up some extended 1/8" bits to get up in the transfers. I do some tool and die work, so I have access to about anything revolving around grinding and polishing. I plan to leave the cylinders at stock height with stock base gaskets. I picked up a Pro Design cool head, and plan to turn the domes to accept the extra 2mil of piston sticking out of the deck.
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It sucks, but that's what I've got. There is 2 ways I'm trying to deal with it, either get the timings to go with those pistons and move the measurements up to compensate for the loss of that notch. Or brain this out a little and figure out degrees per mm.
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Here's what I got so far, measured with 0.020" base gasket, Vito's superstock pistons, 58mm stroke, and 110mm rods. The pistons are stock height Wiseco that are notched roughly 0.045" (1.14mm) to change the port timing for the exhaust. I will be using regular Wisecos for the build. Here's some other possibly useful info: I have new V Force 4 reeds, 28mm Mikunis, and Pro Circuit Pipes All measurements include the piston pop-up distance. Degree measurements for the exhaust measured with piston notch. Piston Pop-up = 2.08mm @ TDC 0° Top of exhaust = 31.55mm @ 84° Top of transfers = 46mm @ 117.5° Bottom of exhaust = 55.07mm @ 150° Bottom of transfers = 56.69mm @ 161.5°
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Thanks for the input guys. My templates came today, which is nice... but with the advice I've gotten, I'm going to map and degree the ports. I'll be back with the results
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I did put in a call to Racelogic a few days ago, and of course whoever said... yes, the templates work well with the 4 mil stroker. After some research, it really got me that there wasn't any other questions asked! Hope that wasn't just a case of "buy my product"
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Lol! Guess I got caught up in the pics!
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Yo! If you dont mind telling... where'd you get the tube for the carrier from? I'm just about to fab a +4 myself. Nice work, I like it!
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Fairly simple fix, but need to pull the kick side case off. I replaced all the linkage after a ball-weld. Got some pics and tips if you need
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Hello all! I have questions about a build I'm doing on my banshee. I just got it last year, and melted a piston recently due to a leaky head gasket that caused a over-heat cyl to piston weld problem. Digging into it, I found out it came with a 4mil short rod stroker with a spacer under the cylinders. I want to delete the spacer and bought a cool head. I'm going to turn the domes to accept the 2mm pop-up, then redo the chambers to get the right cc. But that's getting ahead of myself because that'll happen after the cyls are finally on to get a deckheight measurement for the correct squish with the stock 0.20 base gaskets. THE PROBLEM: I ordered stage III porting templates from Race Logic, and am trying to figure out how to line them up. Do I go off the top of the cylinder, or do I compensate for the raised piston height? And then at that rate, do I raise the transfers as well? After many searches that had conflicting info, I'm not familiar with the right timing numbers for this type of build, but I do have a degree wheel and have no problem mapping it out. The templates sounded like the easy way to siamese the porting. Thanks in advance!