Atomic Monkey

Tolerance stacking was the first thing I thought of too. Maybe try switching the pistons bore for bore. IMO for the most part when someone says matched set of pistons... they are the same part #, bore, and possibly run across a scale. Haven't heard much about matching up compression heights.

I'll find out Monday. Its for a small project I'm working on for riding ice this year. I'm chopping down a stock swinger, welding on a roundhouse tube from JJ&A, and trying to make it compatible with my lonestar swinger so I can just swap the carrier/axle assy back and forth.

Does anyone know what carrier Lonestar uses in their swingarms? I heard someplace that its Honda, is that correct and does anyone know a model?

Before: And After:

Flip it over and get a pic of that up. Curious to see what the transition into the transfers looks like.

A stock setup will always be a "short rod" and use the 513. Long rod engines are always modified. A true long rod banshee is a modification, and will use the 795 piston . People also use the 795 on long rod 4mm stroker engines. There is also the 11882 piston which has a 1mm greater pin offset, and relocated windows that is better suited to a long rod 4mm stroker build. Those are Wiseco numbers that revolve around a stock bore. There are other choices at a 66mm and greater .

I can't hardly wait for these to show up and give 'em a rip!

Most likely 29L rods, that's what are on the short rod Vito's crank I have laying around.

This is what I used to redo the threads in both my cylinders... http://www.timesert.com/

Sleeper is right on. The 30 pilot is what you'll need for Vf4s anyway. I have a very simular build at the same elevation, and this is where I started with my jetting too.

My experience says that stinger length has a lot to do with pipe tuning. Depending on the cone design, changing the stinger length alters the energy of the return pulse and resonance time... kinda like changing port lengths in a speaker box and the way it affects the "performance" of the speakers. I used to tune the power band in on my drag sled by cutting the silencer off, welding longer stingers on, and then cut 'em back until the pipes were in tune with the rest of the setup.

I picked this up because it fits in the tool tray... no messing around with a battery box. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00408X4LU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1427894469&sr=8-2π=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=12+volt+rc+airplane+battery

The extra hole... most likely for the TORS wires, I filled mine to seal it off with silicone. Might need a different cable as well.

Those domes I got came out right on the money, props again my man!

Lol! I just hold mine while I kick it too.

I'm at 1000' with no lid on the airbox, and had 280 mains and about 1/2 turn out on stock pilots to get rid of the hesitation.

Did you get the choke tube back on?

I know the rm is the same as stock. Used the same puller to take it back off and put it back in the box. I'm still running a stock flywheel

As to pods or airbox w/ no lid.... if you run where its wet, you'll have problems. Everyone will most likely have an opinion, but this was my experience... I run an airbox w/no lid, and someone else I know runs pods. On a ride last year it rained, we waited it out, and then rode. For the both of us after splashing water up, it was like pinning the throttle. It was an uncontrollable day until the trails dried out. Both of us were on fresh rebuilds, and it was absolutely scary! I got to give it to Turbowrenchhead, he dominated the trails... probably cause he couldn't slow down! I had issues with my grips slipping off, rolled a couple times, and broke my collar bone.

I see, mine came back with the bearing on the drum so I was curious. And yeah Sprinklerman, when I assembled everything there was no real wear in the case from the way it was stock. What I did notice was where the shift shaft comes through the clutch side case, that looks like a good spot for a bearing or bushing as my case was a little egged out, and there was some galling on the original shift shaft. I didn't do anything about it, but is there a "mod" for that?

Isn't the bearing part of the "Promod"?

IMO it depends on the purpose of the engine. I've gotten better longevity out of cast pistons in engines that don't really get beat, and the forged held up better in engines that got beat. I.e. I run cast pistons in my snowmobile, they simply last longer than Wiescos. But in my dirt bikes that were jetted on the edge and beat, the forged held up better.

I had the same problem with shifting at high RPMs. Sent my trans out to Camatv, and yeah... shifts real nice now! All it takes is a blip of the clutch, and I get the next gear, haven't missed a shift yet, and I can also get neutral without having to shut down the bike. My trans mods besides Camatv going through the gearsets: modded shift star, roller bearing on the detent, modded shift shaft, and the "pancake" bearing in the clutch. I chose to stay with the stock springs on everything. Best of luck on your build!

I would still look into all the unsheathed wire getting rubbed around by your clutch cable etc... pay attention to the black wire w/ the white stripe, if that's rubbed through and grounding somewhere it'll shut you down. Maybe the easy way is to disconnect the harness to the kill/light switch, run it and see if your results change.

Flywheel key?