Motooutcastxxx

What they said^^ ...And are the float bowls on the right carbs? Slides in facing the right way? Choke tube installed? Carbs synced? Any mods? What size pilots are you running? Tors still connected?

Wow, just wow.. A couple of more colors and you got the whole rainbow! Just awful... http://albany.craigslist.org/snw/5565985215.html

I suppose that's true if they had to do the prep also, I'm sure it would add up fairly quickly. One of the best places around here charges around $200 for a frame and swingarm, I was going off that but I believe that even included blasting but that was a few years ago when I got that quote. Yeah thought 10-11 was pretty messed up too, my number one rule: NEVER look at anything in the dark and be leery about others that are willing to look at your stuff in the dark. Just common sense shit....

Someone just posted this on the FB page a little while ago but I had to go find it for myself since it's not all that far from where I'm at... WTF 1k in powder?!! Holy fuck someone raped him!! http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/snw/5497645876.html

The end of next month, you've got plenty of time, and why would your bike sit for months? It's the easiest motor out there to tear down and assemble. Obviously you can do what you want but most of us here are pretty thorough when it comes to this shit, do it right, do it once, why would anyone not want to do it that way? As far as decarbonizing the head, it's pretty fuckin simple to figure out. Hit it with a scotch brite pad, very fine steel wool, a wire brush, some contact cleaner, acetone, carb n choke cleaner, whatever. I've used all of these combinations at one time or another. It might not be the best method but I've never had any problems. I've also bead blasted them with really fine beads, that's probably not recommended though.

I'm not sure why you just don't split the cases, it's easy as fuck. You have the top end off, you're already half way there! Shit, it only costs $75-$100 to have the crank inspected and welded, pretty cheap as far as I'm concerned for the piece of mind.

Did you happen to mix up any of the parts between the 2 carbs? A couple of things are specific to the left/right carbs, if you mix them up they'll bolt up but you'll be chasing bugs kinda like you are now. Make sure your slides are in the right way, half moon cut-out goes towards the air box side and make sure the choke tube is on...

Do yourself a favor and disassemble one carb at a time so you don't mix up some of the parts which are NOT interchangeable between the two. Pay attention to which way your slides go in and don't forget the choke tube when all is said and done...

I know this isn't Banshee related but this forum seems a bit more active than RaptorHQ, even though I see quite a few of the same names over there. Looking for a set of stock carbs for my '03 Raptor 660 beater.. Don't give a shit if they need to be rebuilt or whatever, I'm going to switch the parts over from my current set anyway, just as long as they're usable when I'm done. So if anyone needs some cash and has a set sitting on the shelf I am paypal ready... the sooner the better...

They showed up without the zerk fittings? Mine showed up with 1 bad ball joint, they shipped it out priority mail immediately no questions asked. I'm sure they'd do the same for you. I don't know about that not answering the phone unless there's a time zone issue going on there, they answered every time I called...

They don't generally sell them with tie rod ends because the ones you have will work, or I should say the ones you had.... I bought the same set accept I called Alba directly and got the BHQ member discount. Awesome people to deal with. Just a tip, pay attention to where those "4 washers" go. I believe it does tell you in the instructions though but can't remember, any issues or questions just call them and they should fix you right up.

Here's one for you guys... Pretty nice but certainly not for that price tag!! https://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/snw/5434204204.html

Shit, no one has anything? Got me a Raptor project and not looking to put a whole lot of coin into it or I'd buy new. Unfortunately it has mismatched wheels up front, completely unacceptable if you ask me.

Looking for a set of OEM (Or any) wheels in decent shape. Don't really care if they shine just no major dings or dents. Mainly looking for a matching set of fronts but I'm in the market for rears as well. Just plain old stock-size wheels... You got something send me a pic or two and a price shipped. Paypal ready...

Anyone like me and too lazy to make one? $35 shipped, add fees or send as gift. This is one of Poolman's leakdown testers he was selling on here a while back. You will need one hose clamp for the exhaust plug, and it has been epoxied back together in one spot due to children messing around in the work space. Should be able to see it in the second pic. Works just fine though... Just to give everyone the heads up, I will only be on here until 5pm EST today, after that you probably won't hear from me until Monday. I'm not usually on here over the weekend.

No one is hating, trust me I've been where you're at and it wasn't even all that long ago, you just need to listen and think before you type. You really made it sound like the person who helped you was the reason the wrong bowl was on there. I too ended up with a set of carbs with 2 right bowls on them. The only difference is I did already know it was an issue from everything I've read on here. Many of these guys on here have probably forgot more about Banshees than I have and will ever know, they have this shit down to a science, listen to what they say. Whether they say it nicely or not so nicely it's generally pretty sound advice. 2 right bowls is no doubt a huge issue and it WILL NOT start for shit. However, a leakdown test should ALWAYS be done after cracking the motor open, I won't run it without doing one first. With that being said I do have a leakdown tester I might possibly be willing to part with, if you're too lazy like me to build one. PM if you're interested...

So let me get this straight you have 2 right bowls, " I actually had a member of this forum stop by to help out with the carbs originally which resulted in the swapped bowl, "so how is this statement even plausible? Did I miss something? The guy was just trying to help and from what I've read he was helping you with jetting/fuel leak and not looking for a wrong float bowl...And you throw him under the bus like it's his fault, SMH. They're easy to tell which one is which but you really have to be paying attention. With that being said make sure your slides are in the right way too and do not forget choke tube when all is said and done!!. I can tell you right now you get that left side bowl it's going to fix the majority, if not all your issue... ...And do all of this... And FFS NO STARTING FLUID!!

Have a few parts sitting around that have to go... $10 shipped each unless otherwise noted. I will do the whole lot for $30 shipped obo. Would prefer to get rid of all of this in one transaction, so hopefully someone can use it all.. Send as a gift or pay the fees.. This pic includes new a pair of collars for the lower rear shock mount, a new dowel for either the clutch cover, the cases or the cylinders; just can't remember which. The last package contains 3 brand new circlips for the wrist pin. $10 shipped for all. $5 shipped on the exhaust o-rings and $5 shipped on the reed cage gaskets. A couple of the gaskets have red RTV on them, can't remember what the deal was but other than that they still look brand new. Other items in the pic; New All Balls upper shock bearing/clips and a pair of new swingarm bearings.

You cleaned the pilot and main jets but did you take care of... This ^^ too? Many times it takes a bit more than just a douching of carb cleaner to get all the crap off the "seats," so if your compression checks out pull the floats/float valves(needles) off, grab yourself a few q-tips, massage each seat with something like toothpaste (not the gel the actual paste) which works very well, once nice and shiny hit it with carb cleaner to get the rest of the shit out of there, good as new. Last time I did it I used a hair of Master Formula on a q-tip and polished them right up. Not sure it was the best idea but they worked just fine when I was done. Definitely make sure float height is adjusted to spec too, also extremely important. If you don't have one get yourself a service manual, lots of valuable info in there. I think there's one in the technical section you can download...

Definitely check the packing but If you have the cash I'd consider these over a set of stockers, all though not guaranteed to be at 96db; http://www.procircuit.com/type-296-yfz350-banshee-87-06.html

I believe it should be 1-1 on the choke side and 1-2 on the right side, that's how mine is and it runs just fine, switch 'em and it doesn't run for shit. I personally would try 27.5 pilots with the air screws out 1-1/2 turns, I know generally FMF says a 30 pilot but I'd still try the 27.5's and see how it goes, but that's just me..

Try this out, familiarize yourself with everything before you start, hell you could probably just reverse the steps and you'd be good to go. This is exactly what got me through my first Banshee motor build... I had done others but I always prefer to have a manual on hand and a reference like this certainly doesn't hurt at all and is worth it's wait in gold. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=140912

Being from China one couldn't help but think they would undoubtedly be piss-poor quality. While the MSR lever mentioned above may not be of the ASV type but it certainly is worth every penny, I have one and it works flawlessly, nice and smooth, and the quality is there.

Leakdown test for sure!! I definitely wouldn't be riding it anymore until you get it sorted out. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=110585

All you need is a stock crossover tube to replace the boost bottle, ask around here I'm sure someone could probably hook you up. As far as the float bowls go, the left side should have a brass tube on the inside of it that you'll notice when you pull the bowl off, the right side does not have one of these, if I remember correctly and if that makes any sense. Haven't had mine apart in a while... Ehhh scratch that brass tube shit^^ Had mine apart over the weekend and it wasn't located on the bowl but the carb body itself. However, the bowls I have are stamped on the inside at the bottom of the bowl with a "1-1" and a "1-2", the latter is the right. Not sure if they're all like that but mine are.