Motooutcastxxx

I will let you know, have a couple of people interested but nothing concrete as of yet. Gonna pass on the boots, was never able to get used to riding in them things.

I believe you need a reaming tool, pretty sure Lonestar sells them but either way they're not that hard to find. Old ass thread but this might help or at least give you an idea... http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=127498

PM sent..

Looking to possibly trade my near mint Works rear shock, the fronts are not for sale. It was set up for a stock swinger and I believe for trails and a 180-200LB rider. I got a killer deal on this a while back from Poolman but if I'm ever going to finish my build sacrifices must be made. I have not tested this shock out for myself but judging from the shape it's in Poolman definitely takes meticulous care of his toys. Anyway the thing is in awesome shape just a little dusty at the moment. I have good feedback here as a seller, and have bought a shit-ton of parts also... First and foremost this trade has to include, preferably low hour, but at least must be a clean, usable, ready to bolt up stock shock and... I'm also looking for; All plastics Silver or White (slight possibility I will consider other colors) - cut/uncut, stock/aftermarket doesn't matter just want to get some plastics on it. Tank cover and rad. shroud colors don't really matter but would prefer black. Axle - stock/aftermarket doesn't matter as long as all splines and threads are good. Front Bumper - Stock/aftermarket doesn't matter. Don't really need but would consider; Set of matched cases, no chain whack. Complete usable transmission. I might consider cash offers but I don't really have a price in mind since I could really use all the parts on the first list, not to mention I don't particularly want to part with it. PM me any pics of parts and maybe we can work something out. I'm open to pretty much any combination of parts plus cash, whatever, it doesn't matter but plastics are high on the priority list and the rest aside from the rear shock I can do without.

Wouldn't mind seeing that fight at all... From what I hear they've been seriously talking about a GSP Anderson Silva fight, they're going to fight at a catch-weight but can't remember what it was exactly.

If I do recall Sonnen is the only one that has given Silva a run for his money, well the first fight at least, that has to count for something. Yes the guy does talk too much but one thing he said is he will fight anyone, anywhere, anytime and he's lived up to that. As far as Jones goes, a true champion doesn't turn down a fight ever, if it were boxing they would find a replacement and you fight, you don't get the option to turn it down. Now he's going to fight Vitor Belfort? That's a worse opponent than Sonnen! Don't get me wrong I'm a fan of Jon Jones I just think now he needs to be knocked down a peg or two. I'm actually a Sonnen fan too, saw him on Rogan's podcast and it was one of the most intelligent, informative interviews I've ever seen. I didn't really care for him much myself before that point but he wasn't talking shit to sell tickets like many of them do. It's long as shit but a great show if you're UFC fan....

Just thought I'd mention, for 152 you could've got yourself a brand new harness and a used coil and key switch.

Something is definitely not right, it shouldn't be that difficult to jet for just pipes and pods. Did the jet kit come with new needles? If it did and you threw them in go back to the stock ones. Have the carbs somehow come out of sync? Is the choke tube connected? Are the float bowls on the right carbs? Slides in the right carbs facing the right way?

Edgar is a great fighter no doubt but I'm not a big fan, have to go with Aldo. Don't care how it happens as long as he wins decisively.

It sounds more like you're unplugging the TORS box, underneath the fuel tank, left side, opposite the coil? If in fact this is the case the TORS set up is a malfunction waiting to happen, the question isn't "if" but "when" it will happen because it will happen. Unplug the TORS junk and chuck that little black box in the garbage and see how it runs. If it's good then plan on getting yourself a TORS Elimination kit with idle screws, and if you don't already have one get a Clymer's or you can even download a service manual in the technical section.

If East Coast did the work I'm sure it would run fine, but by some slight chance it didn't no doubt they would make it right. Who disassembled the carbs? Did they know some of the parts aren't interchangeable between the 2 carbs? All though they may look like it and still bolt together you can't mix and match. Just by these 2 sentences here; "he thinks it will work itself out when it gets broken in. he messed with it for about 2 mos after getting it back together." Never EVER let this guy wrench on your quad again, don't mean to be a bit of an asshole but seriously just with those 2 statements it's clear he is extremely unqualified for the job. I hope he's not the one you gave the 1k too!!! Now would be a good time to learn how to work on your own machine, it'll save you a shit ton of money! Download the service manual in the technical section and/or buy a Clymers, do alot of searching around here, ask questions, and keep in mind you can always find all kinds of how-to videos and walk-throughs from carb tuning or sync to bottom end dis-assembly/assembly right here and on youtube. ...And as stated your post is a bit confusing and definitely doesn't make a whole lot of sense in spots.. Just sayin'.

I could be completely way off base here but a machine that has sat outside for that long, especially in the kind of weather you get in the mountains of Wyoming is most definitely and obviously going to have a few strange bugs to be worked out. I would go through the entire electrical system clean all connections, pull stator cover clean whatever needs to be cleaned, and get yourself a TORS removal kit with idle screws if it doesn't have it already. The TORS will wreak havoc on a running machine let alone one that has been sitting out in the weather untouched for that long. All though you probably already have the kit since you have a twist throttle, I don't know though since I've never ran a twist on a quad. If it were me that thing would be torn down immediately and every wire, nut, bolt, and bearing would be inspected, cleaned, lubed, or replaced if needed. I would ditch that boost bottle for the stock crossover tube and make sure there's no rips in the intake boots. As far as how it runs now, is the choke tube in place? Did you take the carbs apart one at a time? Some of the parts may look like they're interchangeable but they're not. Slides in the right way? Carbs sync'd? Congratulations though 200 bucks is an F'ing deal and a half!! There's also a service manual you can download in the technical section if you don't have one yet.

Is that where it was leaking from or was it the overflow tube? Either way get yourself a couple of carb rebuild kits which are fairly cheap and rebuild them. At the very least change the needles, seats and those gaskets and you won't have that problem anymore. Keep in mind it's always best to disassemble one carb at a time since some of the parts are not interchangeable between carbs. Also it might be a good idea to get yourself a service manual if you don't have one, you can actually download one in the technical section. Just don't forget to put the choke tube back on once you bolt the carbs back up and you might want to sync them after as well.

Check out the DMC 916's, sounds like they could be just what you're looking for. Decent performance gains and they also sound pretty bad ass..

Could it have been guns4children? I know he had a brand new one he was trying to get rid of.. It was a great price if he still has it. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=157053

I've bought my share of parts from Chariot and the customer service was some of the best, as with all of the sponsors here that I've dealt with. I even had a minor problem where I was sent the wrong bolts and I notified Jerry quickly and I even told him to just send them with my next order, which I believe was actually the billet intakes with the built in crossover, he made it more than right! Chariot Performance is top notch in my book!

You could just rebuild the one you have, you can find the rebuild kits for $10, but if that's not an option just post in the 'wanted' section I'm sure someone has a kicker or two lying around... And as stated definitely don't buy anything from that guy!

I've run them without on several occasions with no problems but as stated you will definitely get dirt in there so it's not the best idea.. Pick yourself up one of these; http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/43/-/171/989/-/9524/Motion-Pro-Mini-Chain-Press-Tool-For-520-Chain

Both tools you're talking about are real cheap; http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/43/-/171/989/-/28673/Motion-Pro-Clutch-Holding-Tool http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/43/-/171/925/604/17329/Tusk-Flywheel-Puller Get yourself a clymers manual or download the one in the technical section, and you also might want to check out the bottom end assembly walk-through which is also located in the technical section and it'll give you great idea of what you can expect. With that being said, did the guy sign-off on the bill of sale? If so you should be able to get your bike back no problem since what he did is highly illegal.

I would consider this if you're mainly just going to be trail riding. I would actually go for the x-ring kit but this was the cheaper one. http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/43/53/222/959/604/9635/Primary-Drive-Steel-Kit-%2526-O-Ring-Chain Some people on here say it's crap but I've had absolutely no problems with them on any of my bikes, but then again I also mostly just trail ride with a little motocross thrown in here and there. Nothing I've put them on has put out the HP numbers some of these guys are running so they held up just fine... For the price you can't beat it. Keep in mind too, I've never run this kit on a Banshee but I did on my TRX450R and it held up fine.

How long have you been running the 93 and 110 mix? Save yourself some cash and just run the 93, the 110 in that motor is absolutely unnecessary... Just sayin'. Are your carbs sync'd? Choke tube there? TORS or no TORS? What pilot jets are in it now? This would be the main circuit in the carb that would cause hard starting...

You're going to get a whole bunch of differing opinions on this subject but when it comes right down to it if it's been assembled correctly you're pretty much good to go. However, I personally prefer to do a couple of 15 minute cycles at low to moderate speeds letting it cool down completely in between and re-torquing the head after the second run. I should also add, usually at some point during the second cycle I'll end up running it WFO, I mean really who can stay off the gas that long. I have run 'em WFO right out of the gate also with no problems, just depends really on how confident you are in the person who assembled it.

The first time changing axle bearings it very possibly could be a bit of a pain in the ass but for the most part it's a fairly simple job, and no press or special tools needed. Just make sure you have a big enough wrench to get the axle nuts off... Keep in mind the axle nuts can be a real bitch sometimes!

I believe I have a complete set of brand new ones, PM if you're interested.

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=150327